The first XM-L T6 bin flashlights and P60 modules. This is the beginning

I got my XM-L drop-in today. Has very well-functioning memory: If the light is off for more than 2 seconds, it will remember the last mode. Modes are H-M-L-Strobe-SOS. The bottom of the driver says "sheng guong" on it. I was reading a draw of 2.2 amps, but I don't trust my ampmeter. Like Don's, the LED is a little off-center. Definitely more light than my XP-G R5 lights, but it isn't dark yet, so we'll have to see. I'll work up a full review this weekend.

I like what i hear! 2.2-2.7 amp for the p60 dropin aint bad! I hope it can sustain the heat in the long run say around 1h on a single cell. Doable if current drops steadily on a good cell. Got a few ex WOW now Hi-max that are pretty decent!

Have a bunch of XTAR 2400mAh protected 18700 ive been pleased with too. I'f i had a good way to review those i would make a review. Not expensive and very well made and perhaps also a very accurate capacity.

Also judging from the pictures the color temperature should be around 5500K is it true by eye-o-meter?

It's not as cool as a cool white XP-G I got from DX. 5500 might be about right. I'm happy with the tint.

Could it be because it is not forced to the edge of 3Amps? How much does the current change the tint?

As far as my experience goes the tint likes going to blueish when heavily overdriven or/and very hot. True with Q3, Q5 and P4 emitter i tested. Can't say for the rest.

I had a TR-801 Q5 with a bad driver that pulled around 1,89A at tailcap. Can't say how much current and voltage reached the emitter but the blue tint was really clear day sky blue. With a decent driver the tint went to a normal.

At 1A it is more likely up to 7000K, at 1,5+A were 8500+K. Heat wise almost double.

I think the tint is pretty consistent until the LED is overdriven and starts to go blue. I don't notice any difference in tint between Low and High on any of my lights.

Good to know that.

I believe my search for the brightest flashlight will calm down one day. I could maybe use these leds in softboxes to make artificial light for macro photography then.

My one I'd put on the faintly yellow-greenish side of neutral - it looked beautifully vanilla under the very blue office lighting. In a blacked out room

After a look at the CIE curve I'd put it at 4800-5500K, probably to the lower end of that. But I've not colour calibrated this display so I may well be misreading the curve which is very hard to extrapolate from anyway.

I'd guess at the 3A-3B, 2C-2D tint bin range if I were forced to. More likely 2C or 2D

Here is a picture so you can see the relative size of the MC-E, XM-L, and XP-G. The XP-G looks pretty tiny compared to the XM-L, but the XM-L is definitely more compact than the MC-E (click on the image for a bigger version).

Got mine today also and all i can say is AWSOME i'm very pleased with the light, all i want now is one with a 8v driver so i can use it in my L2x extended :-)

Just stuck it on the lightbox to see how it fared after around an hour on high - it was quite hot but that was probably because it has been sitting on top of the vents of this machine's monitor. I got 2720 lux / 488 lumens. Will check cell voltage and current draw now 1716mA and 3.727V. So it is good for around an hour on high on a "2500mAh" unprotected Trustfire cell.

How hot it was? Manageable or uncomfortable?

With the light still hot from previous cell I got 3750 lux out of it on a freshly charged "2500mAh" unprotected Trustfire cell. Will do lux readings at 5-minute intervals to see what happens.

Time (Minutes) 0
Lux 3750
Lumens 673
Time (Minutes) 0
Lux 3750
Lumens 673

The head is now painful to touch - I'll stop at 30 minutes.

Time (Minutes) 0
Lux 3750
Lumens 673

Cell voltage 3.736V, final current draw=1523mA

These cells are a couple of years old and have quite a few cycles on them - you might well get better performance from newer or better cells. The foil trick in the L2m certainly works well - the whole light is hot.

Did I say how much i dislike the Solarforce forward clicky - IMO forward clickies have no place in multimode lights. And my one feels horrible anyway, mushy and generally nasty. The "tactical" reverse clicky it came with is a much better switch but is prone to unexpected operation. But since the old Wf-504B/Uniquefire L2 tailcap fits and works well, this isn't really a problem.

But Excel is driving me insane. As @^%&^**%&^ ever, Microsoft think they know better than I do what I want. The bottom values reading 1-7 should read 0,5,10,15,20,25,30 but Excel in its infinite arrogance has decided I can't have that as I'm clearly too stupid to know what I want. This is what I hate about every single piece of Microsoft's garbage is has been my bad luck to encounter. This point is close to trying to get XP Home remember wireless settings when it just knows you don't really want it to work so it changes the settings back to "broken". They always try too hard to be clever and fail miserably.

Anyway, enough ranting for one minute....

Maybe a 2A driver could help to stabilize the output.

It is actually pretty good. Most wouldn't hold output as well. A fully regulated driver would probably have a lot less runtime.

I'll try doing the same with an MC-E of comparable output at first, its output drops like a stone.

Possibly a good body for a XM-L transplant for cheapish.

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.19186

Reflector looks deep and the heatsinking capability is probably better than most P60 hosts. It's a wild guess tho.

But plastic reflector... I'm still searching for a nice 2*18650 host. I'd prefer one that doesn't look like the average Trustfire (like http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.30683).