WTB: Jetbeam RRT01 – Any place to buy it?! + [RRT01 2019 discussion]

Big thanks 007! This looks like a go for me.

- Clemence

Clemence the opening for the MCPCB is 13.5 mm.
I measured the parasitic drain at off between 15 to 60 uA, it fluctuates up and down.
The color of the RRT has a gray hue to it, it looks black but it’s like a really dark gray, almost black.
The difference can be see beside the V11R pic.

thanks for sharing all the info
with outstanding photos!

@moderator007 can you tell me diameter of reflector? Triple led maybe fix

According to the measurements of the MCPCB, that would be complicated, it seems…
The pill might have to be modified, no?

Sure, looks like 18mm. This new RRT is made exactly like a V11R in most ways. I have seen a triple V11R on this forum some where.
I found it. My new Triple XPG2 Sunwayman V11R Mirage
If I remember correctly, the MCPCB isn’t setting on the led shelf. I think chibim said it was setting on the top of the pill.
Looking at the pics above, the one showing the screws in the MCPCB, the triple MCPCB sets above the led at the top of tube where the led sets now.
Its not really a good heat path. It might could be filled to improve that though. You could shoot chibim a PM and ask how he done it.
This RRT should be moddable by the same method I would think.

I ordered two RRT01 from HKequiment, i will disassembly and mod triple led when received

Looking forward to see your mod :wink:

Got the RRT01 in the mail today. I never had the original so I can’t compare it. I really like it though. Wow it gets super low, lower than my V11R or Zebralight SC25w and those were my lowest sublumen lights. Quality is on par with my other Jetbeams so it feels like it’s built like a tank. Feels much more substantial in my hand than the V11R. I ditched that on cell rechargeable 16340 and solder blobbed a few 18350’s.

Then onto the bench it went where it got a Samnsung LH351 5000k. Very nice beam and tint now. The stock tint wasn’t all that bad really. I mean it was really really white but, didn’t seem to have any crazy tint shifts. Had one ring in the beam. I probably wouldn’t even notice it during everyday use though. No rings with the LH emitter. I usually put diffuser film on most of my lens’s anyway. In my small lights that is. My dedicated thorwers remain throwers but every day use lights normally have film on them.

Great addition to the rotation of carry lights. Is it worth the money? I don’t know. Some people would consider it expensive and others wouldn’t. Besides a ZL It’s about my max that I spend on light. I guess time will tell. So far so good though.

Thanks for the testimony, Todd! :+1:

I have a 2nd release RRT-01 (with the shorter clip). Great light, but I don’t like the tint all that much. I’m sort of half-torn between getting it modded with a new emitter or buying the new RRT-01. It would probably end up costing the same as the new light to mod… I think the previous RRT-01 has a nicer look to it, but the boost in power on the new one is seriously compelling.

Not sure of your tint preference but if you don’t mind cold white, it gets plenty bright. I really wish I had previous models to compare it to. So my opinion on it is pretty biased. A emitter swap is doable by anyone with a soldering iron and a steady hand. It’s not even completely necessary to remove anything but the bezel to access the emitter. The price is one that it might sway someone from getting it if they aren’t magnetic ring variable fans already I reckon. I am glad I took a chance on it. Huge improvement over the V11R, the only other ring light I have.

Good to hear modding isn’t too bad. But if you’re not taking the pill out, how do you get it hot enough to float the emitter? Do you have a pretty powerful soldering iron? Enough solder caked on that you don’t need to add any, just some flux?

[quote=xevious]

Sorry, I didn’t explain my self well. You can just unsolder the connections to the MCPCB/Star/LED board, whatever you are use to hearing it described by, and taking the two screws off the same board and pluck the board out. Then you can use whatever helping hands type vise you use to hold the board and reflow another emitter. I always run a solder tip that has some extra solder on it over the pads on the board, add a touch of flux and heat her up. I will push down on the emitter to squeeze out any extra solder and pick it away with a toothpick or something. I test it with a DMM on the continuity setting making sure it works. Then the board can go back in, screws put back in and power wires from the driver resolderd in place. It’s much easier to get to if you unscrew the head I guess you call it, from right above the ring but it’s not necessary. Not much room but, there’s barely enough.

Had some 60 degree waffle type TIR’s laying around that fit it. Found a orange peel reflector that fit was well. Don’t know where it came from, it was just in a box of parts that was given to me. The TIR was awesome but a bit too floody for me. The OP reflector made it pretty nice and the original SMO reflector with DCFix on the lens made it just right for me.

Slick looking light for sure. Better to MOD or leave as is?

If you like 6500K cold white. It’s just fine as is. If not, throw a emitter of your choice in there. I picked a different emitter.

thanks for sharing your mod info, good to hear you are enjoying the RRT-01

You mention the RRT-01 goes lower than the V11r, thats a good thing for me too. I also like the 18350 option, Im using a 1200mAh IMR in my RRT-01.

some people like the AA option for the V11r, but that is not a factor for me.
And I did not like needing to use a tailswitch (V11r), for me the RRT-01 is just so convenient, just turn the dial.

any other factors you find you like better about the RRT-01 over the V11r (aside from your LED mod)?

I liked the tail switch on the V11R. The ring on that light was so smooth and easy to turn that I could foresee it coming on in my pocket by accident. It was for a time my nightstand light. I like that I was able to turn it off at a certain brightness and I could turn it on momentarily or click to keep in on in the brightness I turned it off in. So that was nice for what I used it for. I don’t keep it on the nightstand anymore so it really isn’t a issue. The RRT01’s off notch seems very stout, when the ring is in the off position it doesn’t seem like it would come on easily in my pocket. So that is a plus for sure. The very lowest on the RRT01 is so low that I can’t see it unless I put my eye just an inch away from the lens. I couldn’t even get a reading on it with a light meter.

The V11R is lighter, but the feel, fit and finish are much better on the RRT01. 18350 is a huge advantage for me. I have no use for the little 16340’s. They sit in my drawer unused for the most part. Think I have like a dozen of those things. I have 4 lights that use them, 2 of them are gifts that I will never get rid of, one is a FourSevens Mini MKII Turbo Ti and the 4th is the V11R and it wouldn’t break my heart if it found a new home. I will probably gift it to someone with onc of those protected cells with the charging port on it. I put a Luxeon V2 5000K in it so it’s quite pleasant to look at.

If I didn’t have either one and I had to choose. I would probably choose the RRT01. 18350, extra output, and build quality would win me over. If I knew I couldn’t put a new emitter in it I would probably not have gotten either one. The cold white tints are irritating to me. Not many of my lights still have the stock emitter. Now If I can just get off my butt and put some new emitters in my D4S. Bought it because I got a good deal on it but, the XPL HI 6500K isn’t my thing. It is screaming for new emitters.

Thanks for the comments, I agree the V11r has the advantage of last mode memory, thanks to the tailswitch… the RRT-01 cannot be set to any specific value, twice in a row

however, I did some tests… I use my RRT-01 around the house and checked the lumen level I was using for a couple of tasks, such as walking into a dark part of the house, and then I put my RRT-01 on my light meter. To my surprise, I tend to use very similar lumen levels when I do that task.

In all fairness, it is also easy to use too many lumens, but I make a conscious effort to use “just enough”…

I’ve been looking for one of the originals for a while after I lost one years ago. The smooth control ring, the lowest low of any light I’ve owned, we’re two of my favorite things. Don’t like the idea of detents though. When you turn it does it suck into the detents? Like if you wanted a brightness level between the detents would the control ring stay where it is or move slightly to rest in the detents? I made an offer on one, on ebay… and this would help me decide if I should take the counter offer.

It stays where you put it as long as the little ball bearing isn’t already sitting on the edge or in one of the small detents.