Twins. He’s the taller better looking one 
Firelight2/CRX, it’s always a pleasure seeing the lights you fellow put out.
For today all I have is a mod of the tint coming off of some lights.
(Actually I posted this as an OT on another thread that dealth with “Painted Collars” for purposes of harnessing forward light but figured this might be more appropriate as a Mod topic.)
I observed that a fair amount of tint-shift results from stray light from the sides of prone emitters. In my experiments, I placed “Magenta Collars” around the perimeter of emitters in an effort to filter out green, with some success.
Some of my earlier experiments that were successful, ultimately failed but did put me on my current track.
Here is an example of what I earlier called a “Magenta Collar” attached around the cavity of a LED spacer -
It would be placed inside a light such as this -
Notice the tint affecting primarily the side off-angle light which appears at center bottme of the reflector -
And here are the results of original beam (on left) and beam after a Magenta Collar (on right)-
The same light, with the same emitter, taken at the same exposure and white balance, with the only difference being the Magenta Collar! The green is reduced without dramatically tinting the rest of the beam as a lens tint filter might.
I mentioned that my experiment with the Magenta Collar failed, that was primarily because the plastic melted from the high heat of the LED. I suppose a collar made of higher heat capable material could be done but I’ll leave that for others to pursue.
My latest experiment (photo below), involved directly tinting the led itself rather than a separate collar. Here for example is an XP-G3 (notorious for green tint-shift) where I magenta tinted directly on the bottom perimeter edge of the led itself. It was equally as effective in reducing green tint-shift in the beam. This approach was also less construction dependent. (Sorry no before/after photos for comparison as removing the tint from the emitter dome is more involved than simply removing a physical Magenta Collar from a spacer.)
This magenta collar approach could be something for fellow tint-snob to consider to help with (but unfortunately not entirely eliminating) green tint-shift. It has the added benfit of less light loss than lens filters.
In any event, I’m putting this out there for consideration. Perhaps someone can make Magenta Collars available commercially.
(3D printer anyone? Or BanL/BG interested?)
That is very clever and succesful pc_light! What did you use for colouring the led?
Magenta Ink from my HP printer cartridge. A very little goes a long way.
There a some really nice mods here as well as creative. Thanks for posting up. 
Nice! All the LuxPro lights I got recently have that nasty and very prominent urine-yellow corona from the G3s, which LP seems to use exclusively. Even when I pulled off the head and left the bare chip (ie, used as mule, no reflector or anything) and held it near a wall, you can see the nasty-ass yellow haze around the periphery, and a decent white center.
I’m wondering if inking the dome itself would do anything, and not catch fire in the process. Guess it depends on how heat-resistant is the ink and carrier, and how hard you’d push the LED.
This thread is just one big modding handbook. Nice job everyone and thanks for sharing. 
Geez the entire dome, might be a stretch. Perhaps just try very light magenta at first and not for long. That way you can wipe it off before it gets somewhat caked on.
I can’t speak for other inks but the HP stuff is top shelf. Inkjet inks are actually sort of quasi-vaporized as part of being deposited onto papper/media so (I’m hoping) heat isn’t a problem.
Nnnnnnoooonononono, nono. I mean just ink a band around the periphery of the dome, not the whole thing. Ie, similar to your “collar” but done directly on the dome itself vs a separate doodad.
Picture your collar as a piece of heatshrink tubing, and shrink it in-place so that it just wraps around the bottom of the dome nearest the mcpcb. Like that, only done in ink vs tubing.
Doing the whole dome would also color the spill and everything else. Talk about a “rosy” tint…
Oh, my mistake, I think Magenta Collarring could help. That’s exactly what I did with the XP-G3 (photo in earlier post).
It doesn’t show in the photo because it’s on the slightly more vertical part of the dome curve but the magenta reflection at the base of the reflector is from the tinted thin band/stipe maybe 1 mm directly around the base of the emitter dome. The theory of the case being a green filter of the stray horizonal light responsible for green-tint shift.
Do post any before & afters with your trials. The more experience with different emitter/reflector configurations, the better.
Obviously with a de-domed emitter, there’s no dome to tint so no help there.
Actually, if it’s the thicker layer of phosphor around the sides that’s yellowing the beam, de-greening it by painting “the sides of the box” might in fact help tremendously.
I wonder if the printer ink will melt and run around inside your light if you run the light on turbo for awhile.
Anything’s possible so modders be warned.
BUT, fortunately it hasn’t happen (yet) on the lights I’ve tried, whereas my earlier attempt with a separate plastic collar melted. And, a miniscule amount of ink is used. I probably gave the wrong impressions when I previously mentioned the ink “caking”, misleading choice of words. Really I mean the ink drying out on the dome material.
The coloration should really be just a clear, almost like AR lens coating, tint and not an opaque layer.
I modded a C8+ Desert Tan with a white flat, warm white/gold lighted tail switch, and LD-A4 driver 5A from led4power.com. It's a mini light saber! I don't have the exact figures but it looks like it easily beats my L2 with a MTN buck driver 5.1A driving a XP-L HI. Next I will put a white flat in the L2…
Here’s a couple of images of my C8+
Tadaaaa:
B158B 4,55A 13x7135 driver: 345500cd
Same driver and led in Convoy C8+: 209000 cd
Same driver and led in Eagle eye X6(still need some focusing because I’m not happy with numbers): 117000 cd
Very nice :heart_eyes: I had considered this before but never followed through with it. Nice to know it can be done :+1:
First post, but - as per zak.wilson’s post re: Wowtac A2S and LH351D (SPHWHTL3DA0GF4RTS6), I did an emitter swap today. Didn’t think to take too many photos as I had some time pressure, but I think I did it the hard way - removed the battery terminal end, desoldered, and then took the emitter board out, and swapped it. Really should take beamshots…
I really should have thought that one out longer. There had to be a better way to remove the board. Resoldering the four wires from switch and emitter was NOT fun.
Thanks! And interesting: my clear C8 with dedomed XP-G2 S4 2B does 180kcd, so that is 16% improvement for the white flat. My B158 with XP-G2 S4 2B does 322kcd, so that is 7% improvement. So YMMV probably depending on individual led differences.
And it also can be more or less difference because of measurements error. And the XP-G2 only make that performance fully charged. Osram can maintain better when battery depletes because of low forward voltage
Modded Q8 with Luxeon MZ: led4power
And in 2nd step I bridged the springs.
Stock LED: 5200 Lumen
Stock LED Bypass: 6500 Lumen
Luxeon MZ: 7000 Lumen
Luxeon MZ Bypass: 10000 Lumen
I noticed no stepdown but the flashlight was realy hot.