Grey nichia arrived today. Inside looks better, the aux outside wires are a different color. Optic leg still broken. Of course the tint is nice, but what really surprised me is how quick the nichia heats up on turbo. Feels twice as hot as the XPL HI 5000k when on the same amount of time. Both look bone dry through the holes in the board. I plan on swapping led boards in the lights and using the gray at work and clear ano for home shelf queen with the nichia leds. At that time I plan on addressing the thermal issue for both of them
Got my clear XPL HI 4000K yesterday and it looks great. Today I noticed one of the LED optics looked cloudy. Took the bezel and optic out and decided to see what the light looked like mule mode. Turned it on and ramped up and the double clicked into Turbo. About 2 seconds in turbo and SMOKE started rolling out out of the light. Immediately shut it down. Guess that is what turned the optic cloudy.
Tried to configure nichia to go as low as xpl, but it will not. On reds and browns is where this nichia pops. But the xpl really puts out this highest highs and lowest lows with a decent color tint
Under close examination I saw two extremely small black/ brown spots on one of the LEDs. Got a qtip and alcohol and cleaned them all and was able to remove those spots. Fired it back up and into Turbo and one little wisp of smoke then nothing else. Tried a couple more times and no more smoke. The alcohol also cleaned the optic. Guess a dirty LED was the cause.
How is the light able to keep the MCU controlled switch led’s on while turning the TIR AUX LED’s off? I’d guess in the low AUX LED mode there isn’t enough voltage to switch on the AUX board but there is enough to light the two directly controlled switch led’s? AFAIK they’re on the same circuit with no mechanism to actually control them independently.
Yes I realize 2 are on all the time but in lockout mode there is a aux LED setting which powers the MCU controlled switch LEDs (so all 4 switch led’s are on) yet the TIR LED’s are off.
How is this accomplished? Maybe that’s a Lexel question?
Edit I’ve answered my own question… The window in which the red led’s are on is so small its possible to totally miss it. What had happened was the voltage fell below the setpoint with the light running so when I shut it off and locked it out all AUX LED’s were being commanded on but the TIR boards voltage monitor was keeping them off so only the switch led’s (all 4 of them) were on.
Tl;Dr my battery was dead and I was over thinking it… Check the small things first!
Does anyone know of a way to get just an aux emitter board, of say, yellow/ red aux LEDs? Is that something Neal would be able to sell (since he seems to be the only person with alternate options, but I’m also sorta assuming that’s just all pre-stocked……
Does it still make the loud cracking sounds when the battery is removed? I have a mateminco that does that with the batteries removed after I have had it turned on for awhile.