FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight - SST-20 available, coupon codes public

I’m interested in one with the Samsung emitter.

Yes, I’m using the awful quote button!
I’m reading through threads, so if this has been answered later, sorry.
I’m totally up for an all copper FW3C. Charge me. I’m happy to pay for at least two (assuming 100ish ea).
Add me to the list!

They don’t exist, and there is no list for them. The only list is for the original aluminum, and even that doesn’t exist yet.

I’m not a huge fan of all copper lights. I only own one: A prototype Sinner Cypreus 18650 triple. My impressions:

  • Copper is HEAVY. The all-copper Cypreus looks great but is way too heavy for pocket EDC in my opinion. This is the biggest negative of using copper for an EDC light
  • Copper conducts heat sometimes a little too well. I found that with the Sinner Cypreus triple the body would get extremely hot extremely fast. So much so that I would have to rapidly ramp output down just to protect my hand. Not much point in using a lot of copper if the end result is you get even less time at max power.
  • The copper looks great when freshly polished, but tarnishes rapidly. This can be fixed by putting a finish on the copper during manufacturer like was done with the Emisar D4’s copper heads on the Titanium-copper version of that light.

Copper lights stink and make you hands smell . About as much fun as using an old sponge in the kitchen.

I'm looking forward to the FW3S Stainless although I'll probably take one and strip it to make a FW3N-> naked

How about swappable /extra heads with different emitter combos

Typically speaking, if you have two identical lights with one made of aluminum and one made of copper, you will get MORE time at max power with the copper. It’s been proven over and over again.

Just recently I remember someone (maybe Maukka?) measuring the Turbo temps on an Astrolux S43 (aluminum head) and S43S (copper head). Both lights draw a lot of amps. The S43 held Turbo for about 30 seconds and the S43S held Turbo for about 40 seconds. So copper does have its advantages, but it’s up to each person to decide if they want it.

I agree that the weight and tarnishing of copper tends to make me want to avoid those lights, but that’s just me. Aluminum has the advantage on weight and cost and still handles heat pretty well.

Still, some people like these more unusual materials, even if they cost more, weigh more and maybe don’t conduct heat well. They are definitely nice for collecting. :smiley:

Ps, I’ve never had a titanium light. If they do a titanium FW3 I’ll be curious about it.

My biggest problem with stainless steel is it’s even heavier than copper. I don’t think I’d want an FW3A in my pocket that weighs nearly a pound.

Frankly, from a practical perspective in terms of weight, heat, and cost nothing beats aluminum. But if I want a bit more bling without making the light too heavy, I’d accept Titanium.

I like the appearance of copper a lot. They make wonderful shelf queens, but are not great EDC lights because of the weight. My opinion.

Well yeah.

You’re correct if you’re tailstanding the light over an integrating sphere. Copper can hold more heat than aluminum and also conducts it better than aluminum. A copper light in that situation will absolutely run longer at higher power than an aluminum light.

However, that test isn’t necessarily accurate for real-world usage, because it fails to take into account that most of the time when you use your light you will hold it in your hand. :smiling_imp:

Surprisingly, your hand can take a lot LESS heat than both copper and aluminum. It isn’t necessarily helpful to have a light that take take a lot more heat if it is being held in your hand, which cannot. Unless you don’t mind your hand looking like a baked chicken after using your light.

Upgrading your hand to be able to withstand more heat from an all-copper light is not easy and may require gloves … or cybernetic technology that doesn’t exist yet. :confounded:

Stainless Steel was never mentioned as an option. Just Brass, Copper and Titanium.

For a truly lightweight experience we should ask for Magnesium!

A magnesium flashlight body would also make sure any accidental battery shorts are truly memorable! :smiling_imp: :smiling_imp: :smiling_imp:

No, it’s not about “taking more heat”. Both lights got up to the same temperature before stepping down.

When it comes to little powerhouse lights it’s always nice to have NarsilM, RampingIOS or Anduril so that you can adjust the thermal stepdown yourself. Then you never have to worry about it getting too hot.

+1 for Naked. I am also looking forward to the FW3W WOOD.

+1 for FW3M

Have you ever actually tried holding a copper version of a light side-by-side with an aluminum version of the same light?

The copper feels much, MUCH hotter in the hand. This is because the copper is more efficient at pulling the heat away from the LEDs to the exterior of the light. Also, aluminum anodizing tends to insulate a bit more than bare aluminum or copper.

I can hold an aluminum Emisar D4 at full power for probably twice as long as I can hold my much heavier and dimmer Sinner Cypreus copper triple.

The thing about long signatures is —- people quit seeing them after a while.
The brain filters out pointless repetition. Like hearing the same ad over and over.
Fortunately, there’s also software available here for that filtering
http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1300106
You know the two rules for civilization: don’t annoy people, and don’t be too easily annoyed.

I only have one copper light, an S43S, so I can’t directly compare anything.

Have you considered swapping the driver in your Sinner for one with Bistro or Guppydrv, etc… so that you can manually set the temperature step down? That might make it nicer to use on Turbo.

It’s wierd that the Sinner is dimmer, yet heats up quicker. Does the Sinner draw less or more amps from the battery than the D4? I’m not very familiar with either of these lights.

I'm pretty sure Firelight2 doesn't know how to mod lights . :P

Oh man ....now I'm thinking Burled Oak ,Quilted Ash,Curly Maple? FW3Wood

Wonder who will be the first to bake one ?

This is why I put some CF on this, stops most of the copper smell transfering to hands, less tarnishing & buffers the heat a little on high output. (Plus I like the look) :smiley:

CRX, would it be possible to estimate thermal resistance of that CF layer?
Could you tell us the thickenss?

My off the napkin and not necessarily correct calculations agree with Firelight2.

Copper gives better sustained performance but shorter turbos. Unless turbo is actually quite long, so better heat shedding helps.

The CRX way with carefully chosen insulation thickness (I think it should be quite thin…and too thin is better than too thick) can get the same thermal path from LED to skin as alu - and so the same LED temperature. However it will spread heat around the host better leading to higher sustained performance. Also turbo times should be much better than either alu or copper alone. More than 50% for sure.

I have 1 copper light and I EDC it nowadays.
Astrolux A1.
With a light this small the extra weight doesn’t matter every day. I also EDC Lumintop GT Mini (with a shorty tube). If that light was copper - no way I would carry it around.
I would love to have some larger copper host just for the sake of it but I wouldn’t use it very much.