Fireflies E07 preview

Yes I realize 2 are on all the time but in lockout mode there is a aux LED setting which powers the MCU controlled switch LEDs (so all 4 switch led’s are on) yet the TIR LED’s are off.
How is this accomplished? Maybe that’s a Lexel question?

Edit I’ve answered my own question… The window in which the red led’s are on is so small its possible to totally miss it. What had happened was the voltage fell below the setpoint with the light running so when I shut it off and locked it out all AUX LED’s were being commanded on but the TIR boards voltage monitor was keeping them off so only the switch led’s (all 4 of them) were on.

Tl;Dr my battery was dead and I was over thinking it… Check the small things first!

Does anyone know of a way to get just an aux emitter board, of say, yellow/ red aux LEDs? Is that something Neal would be able to sell (since he seems to be the only person with alternate options, but I’m also sorta assuming that’s just all pre-stocked……

Thanks :slight_smile:

[quote=SKV89]
Here are a few more measurements of three more E07 using Samsung 30T.

E07 SST-20 4000k, emitters swapped by Texas_Ace (different batch of SST-20): 4,845 lumens
E07 SST-20 4000k: 4,888 lumens
E07 XP-L HI 4000k v2 5A, heavily used: 6,465 lumens

Is that cell safe with the SST-20 4000k emitter?

Neal told me he was just getting his lights from fireflies directly. I did see a post somewhere here for aux tir boards.

As well as the thermal path issue mine also makes loud cracking sounds. I don’t trust it and therefore won’t use it.

Does it still make the loud cracking sounds when the battery is removed? I have a mateminco that does that with the batteries removed after I have had it turned on for awhile.

My first E01 also made the cracking sounds.

They went away completely when I redid the thermal paste under the star. I think it’s just air expansion in the gap under the star.

Basically, the cracking sounds are harmless. They’re disconcerting, but pose zero danger and do not affect the function of the light.

That’s an oddly strong reaction. It still generally works fine, and several people have done extensive runtime testing on turbo with no issues, even with the air gap issue. It’s unlikely to actually have any functional issues, even if some of the insides may not be perfect.

I just don’t really understand putting something in the trash because of minor imperfections. Maybe it’s not 100, maybe it’s 90 or 95% instead… but that’s a long way from zero. Give it a 50E cell to make the air gap irrelevant, and enjoy the extra runtime.

That is actually possible, and in the first version I sent to Fireflies I tried to convince them to include that mode… but they thought it would be confusing and requested a version without the “low” mode instead. So it’s off/on/blinking only.

My XPL 6500k is still putting out 7000ish lumens but my ROT66 219B has dropped to 2700, I’ve put some more foam in the tailcap, like someone suggested, and it’s back up to 4500ish.

Oh it won’t go in the trash, just in the box where I keep all the kit that is either outdated, or that is useable but with an element of risk. I did use 50E’s with it after the late warning about using 30 and 40T’s. I think other people have expressed their disatisfaction with the product more eloquently than me in this thread. I shall just attempt to get a refund from BG. Its no biggie, its just the risk of buying new products from new companies at a reasonable discount :slight_smile:

Hhmm, foam in the tailcap? Ohhh - to keep the carrier compressed and tight against the front end contact - makes sense from that perspective. I bypassed the driver spring, but you could also try some light coating of NO-OX-ID on the contact surfaces - spring and ground aluminum rings. The foam though works, sounds like, but the bypass and conductive grease helps also in the long term.

Thanks Firemedic, I’ll keep hunting!

$0.673 per emitter? When I see super low prices per emitter on DigiKey, you’ve got to buy a minimum in the hundreds… I guess that’s the same deal?

Concerning the mistake about the MCPCB, the E07 is a quite expensive model but it can be used in muggle mode which is fine. Worth the 6 clicks from OFF to test it :+1:
Thank you ToyKepper :beer:

.
NB : double clicks turn off the light, ceiling and floor are reasonably bright in their respective levels. Perfect for muggles, useful for flashlights aficionados.
Floor should be a tiiny bit lowwerrr.

I would not recommend the 30T for day to day use. I only use it for testing consistency to compare with other lights.

Generally I aim for about 5 lm as the muggle mode floor. Any lower than that, and people start asking “is this thing on?”. However, on my E07 it looks like the muggle floor is about 9 lumens. So yeah, it should probably be a bit lower.

Following in the footsteps of others, I’ve swapped emitters to LH351D 5000K W6. This is easily one of my favorites now and have to agree that moonlight looks delicious!

(This is a little blown out, but a good representation of the wall of light the LH315D | 30T combo produces)

Cool mod… where is the best place to get those LH351D 5000K W6?

I actually like the 70 CRI 5000K W6 better than the 80 CRI 5000K U6, just seems whiter to me and that’s what I like. AAAND, more powerful. :smiley:

DigiKey has had them, not sure if they still do… pretty cheap as well. :wink: (they show some 720 in stock as of a few seconds ago)