Ya’ll please forgive my clumsy postings. Im much more comfortable working with metal and machines than this stuff.
I didn’t realise there was such a thing as a clumsy post but I’d say you must definitely feel comfortable with machining if you turn at those speeds. Any chance of a bit of video? 
Yeah I’ll throw a chunk from the scrap bin in when I get a chance! Titanium is my favorite to turn, especially when using a toolpost grinder for high surface finish requirements. Mostly turning monel most of my life but now working in an aircraft facility so everything is aluminum, magnesium, and titanium with the exception of the turbine hot sides we have to drill and tap sometimes.
Looks really good! Great work using the P60 to keep intricate machining down for your first light!
For your next projects, I’ve got some really REALLY high quality reflectors I’d give you. I convert a lot of high-end lights into TIR optic lights and pull their reflectors. Nitecore, Fenix and other top-tier brands who really know how to make a great performing reflector. Up till now I just set them aside in a drawer cause I don’t have the tools or skills to turn lights from raw materials but if you or any of our other BLF machinists want them for projects I’d much rather give them to ya guys than see them sit in a drawer never to be used… PM me and I’ll send them out (this goes for anyone who’s capable of putting them to use)!
IPM = inches per minute but what’s DOC? Degrees off center is the first thing that pops into my head…
-clearly not a machinist
Girl in the shop today was scared/confused when I went to bore a 22mm by about 6” depth and I grabbed a 1/2 carbide boring bar and started wrapping the butt end with bicycle innertube and rubber bands. Spun it at 850 RPM and set the feed ripping. Mirror finish.
I’m gonna try remember that trick. Could’ve used it the other day. 
CK, DOC is depth of cut, which means I am taking a total of .500 off the overall diameter, using grade 5 ceramics lets you do some crazy cuts. And yes one day I would like to machine a light using a reflector/TIR setup, but the whole getting the reflector lined up with the emitter and everything seems like something I will have to practice a few times. I have copper set aside for pills and some other exotic materials Ive hoarded. If I can ever forge a succesfull bar of mokume……….
Me too. 
You know, what really inspired me to finally make one was watching ya’lls entrys in the O-L buildoff. Ive got to get some practice in over the next year!
Great to hear you intend on entering the O-L comp 
Providing you’re able to solder a few wires I don’t think you’ll have any troubles. Just ask the forum about which driver/led etc… if you’re unsure. Helping is one of this forums strongest attributes 
Did the taper turning today between centers, next up is the slotting and some crenulations on the head and tail once the bridgeport opens up from actual jobs.
Wow that’s looking nice! Great job sir.
Nice looking flashlight.
Interested in how this turns out.
Thanks for sharing. 
So JYBW1A group buy? Lumintop you listening?
Hum…that would be a long project to come out 
:smiling_imp:
Sofirn would make it faster
BTW, nice project!
Nice shape
I feel like I need to save my pennies for a really amazing P60 to go in this now 
Im really hoping these deep thick fins and the mass of aluminum will really heat sink well, I’ll copper wrap whatever dropin goes in it and maybe some thermal paste? Ya’ll think a stock Streamlight Polytac tailswitch will be able to handle the amps of a real quality dropin? The original light ran on 2 CR123’s and I tried to mod it for an 18650 but there wasnt enough wall thickness in the sleeve to bore it further. I also recently bored my ASP Triad CR for work to accept 18650 and replaced the silly foam grip with knurled aluminum.
So you’ve already done 1-2 modifications on lights, nice
Sorry I don’t know much about streamlight so can’t help with your switch question.