The 6A~7A input current limit means that you’d need a minimum of 5s to get close to full output. This isn’t really a problem for my Navy Battle lantern retrofit project but for a “hand cannon” it probably is…
A soda can light would have a very hard time dissipating the ~100w of heat. I had a similar idea but put a big heatsink and fan between the LED and the batteries.
That’s what I was thinking myself. A nice finned heatsink, possibly actively cooled, would be pretty awesome. Now to find a cheap host.
Would love to see that Navy lantern retrofit when you get to doing it!
There is the led treiber senser xtreme:
https://pcb-components.de/anleitungen/Xtreme_E.pdf
I ordered some of their other stuff (haven’t used yet) but looks promising…
That driver would need a minimum of 5s as well. 4s could drive the LED at full output when the cells are fully charged but it would drop out of regulation or exceed the input current limit fairly quickly.
I’m actually curious if either the Hyperboost or the Led Treiber Xtreme have input current sensing. I suspect they do not and so it would probably be safer to run both off a higher input voltage so that the input current never gets high enough to damage the driver.
I think I want a driver that can handle about 20A on the input. I would also prefer something that can not generate voltages above 50-60vdc as above 60vdc can be seriously dangerous or lethal.
I was looking at the LT8391 last night but I’m not an electrical engineer and so electrical things I design typically just follow manufacturer design guidelines.
I redid my spreadsheet a little bit and so if we assume we’re going from 4.2v to 3v per cell the hyperboost would need 7s and the Xtreme would need 6s.
For testing shenanigans, I just happen to have some 7s4p NCR18650GA battery packs. I think one of them would run the COB at full output for something like 3 hours. 
Me neither… The LT8391 is not exactly plug-and-play either. I thought I could find a dev board to make life easier, but as with most things that are fast and easy, it don’t come cheap:
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/linear-technology-analog-devices/DC2345A/DC2345A-ND/6674142
LEDiL also makes some reflectors for the CXB3590!
https://www.ledil.com/search/?manufacturer[]=Cree&names[]=CXA%2FB+3590&q=
Looks like they work with the solderless COB connectors… Which is convenient… Might have to pick one up to try out for the back yaard light. I do have a cheap 50W COB floodlight that was given to me because of a bad driver. I replaced the drive with a DC boost from MeanWell (about $10) so I can run it off a LiPo to make it portable.
I’ve got all their datasheet for CXB3590 compatible optics open right now. It is really fascinating how the different LEDs produce different beams with the same optic/reflector attached. For instance, the 30 degree reflector produces a 27 degree beam.
I’m probably going to get a FN14074_STELLA-HB to use and a F13380_ANGELA-M to play with.
Although the F13325_ANGELINA-S also looks interesting.
Cool, would love to see some beamshots when you get them in…
I suppose the different characteristics of each manufacturer’s COBs - the thickness of the LES in relation to the board surface, and in relation to the mounting ring - have something to do with the effective beam angles…
I was looking at some “commercial” drivers last night and didn’t really see anything all that interesting. I did see some buck drivers from MeanWell but no boost….
Have you seen this?
It’s a monster and not too expensive so it probably actually works.
I had an idea for heatsinking on the battle lantern but after looking at some heat sink performance data, I don’t think it will afterall. Passively dissipating ~100w is hard.
On the other hand, there are some twin radiator heatsinks designed for ThreadRipper TR4 and EPYC that look interesting but they’re also ~$50-75 and HUGE.
The Dell T3610 heatsinks look like a decent option for a hand cannon as they appear to have a good bolt pattern/mounting plate, cheap, available, relatively compact and the battery pack could probably be mounted to the other side of the fan shroud.
These are pretty cool, but rated only up to 45W @1.05A. I already used them in one project and they’re like $10 each…
I wonder what LEDs this uses… It is one of very few PAR36 modules that I can find where it appears that it can be opened up.
https://www.amazon.com/Grote-63831-5-Work-Lamp/dp/B00460FV0Y
Also, I found one on ebay for far less than the insane $100 retail price.
Not sure, but you can get it with this cool Fresnel…
Check this thing out!
Looks perfect for a passively cooled hand cannon.
I don’t even care much how it cools - it LOOKS freakin’ cool! NOFAN’s claims about the first fanless PC system though are dubious - they’ve been making fanless computers seemingly forever…
For the money these may be better…
The key words “1U” and “passive” seem contradictory. Anything 1U is going to have stupidly powerful fans in it.
Though, I do like vapor chamber tech…
I can’t seem to find that NoFan CR-95C ANYWHERE. I know it was discontinued but….
Possibly implying this will fit in a 1U rackmount case…. Can’t find the CR-95C anywhere either.
Grote tried to tell me that their PAR36 units are well engineered and use proprietary high performance LEDs that operates at 130lm and 3watts. Oh and of course they’re really reasonably priced at ~$100 per unit. I’m guessing they’re using some Luxeon 3’s or something positively ancient.
I found a few youtube reviews of the NoFan heatsinks. Seems they do actually work but they’re HUUUGE. They actually made a CR-100 (100w class) unit and it looks positively massive.
I honestly think my best option for the Battle Lantern is to use the giant Cree and just under-drive it at maybe 25w.
On the other hand, I still want to build the hand cannon that can do the full 3.6A at 36v.