The first XM-L T6 bin flashlights and P60 modules. This is the beginning

With the light still hot from previous cell I got 3750 lux out of it on a freshly charged "2500mAh" unprotected Trustfire cell. Will do lux readings at 5-minute intervals to see what happens.

Time (Minutes) 0
Lux 3750
Lumens 673
Time (Minutes) 0
Lux 3750
Lumens 673

The head is now painful to touch - I'll stop at 30 minutes.

Time (Minutes) 0
Lux 3750
Lumens 673

Cell voltage 3.736V, final current draw=1523mA

These cells are a couple of years old and have quite a few cycles on them - you might well get better performance from newer or better cells. The foil trick in the L2m certainly works well - the whole light is hot.

Did I say how much i dislike the Solarforce forward clicky - IMO forward clickies have no place in multimode lights. And my one feels horrible anyway, mushy and generally nasty. The "tactical" reverse clicky it came with is a much better switch but is prone to unexpected operation. But since the old Wf-504B/Uniquefire L2 tailcap fits and works well, this isn't really a problem.

But Excel is driving me insane. As @^%&^**%&^ ever, Microsoft think they know better than I do what I want. The bottom values reading 1-7 should read 0,5,10,15,20,25,30 but Excel in its infinite arrogance has decided I can't have that as I'm clearly too stupid to know what I want. This is what I hate about every single piece of Microsoft's garbage is has been my bad luck to encounter. This point is close to trying to get XP Home remember wireless settings when it just knows you don't really want it to work so it changes the settings back to "broken". They always try too hard to be clever and fail miserably.

Anyway, enough ranting for one minute....

Maybe a 2A driver could help to stabilize the output.

It is actually pretty good. Most wouldn't hold output as well. A fully regulated driver would probably have a lot less runtime.

I'll try doing the same with an MC-E of comparable output at first, its output drops like a stone.

Possibly a good body for a XM-L transplant for cheapish.

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.19186

Reflector looks deep and the heatsinking capability is probably better than most P60 hosts. It's a wild guess tho.

But plastic reflector... I'm still searching for a nice 2*18650 host. I'd prefer one that doesn't look like the average Trustfire (like http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.30683).

I keep an eye on the Sacredfire. It does look a bit like TR-1200 but the pill sits (screws to?) in the body in Sacredfire so I expect better heat transfer.

14mm with T5 & T6 @ Cutter. Still waiting for my second Trustfire R5-A3 to come (hopefully with the new driver & its usable low mode), and just added a KD C8 XM-L T6 to the "waiting for HK" list. Plus a bunch of Romisen XR-E stocking stuffers and another Aurora SH-035 for my dad... And really... I just can't wait for the XM-L.

We;re waiting on cutter as well .Unfortunately absolutely zero contact sice we gave them cash ..happy are they... sad we are .

Suddenly i'm Yoda ?!! welcome to the jungle midwest usa as well.hint hint wink wink nudge nudge

Aloha and welcome to BLF uncajesse!

Just got my XML today. It's very nice! Brighter than my MC-E and without the cross. Mine only seems to pull 2.20amps on high with a Sony 4.20V battery.

Edit: Tried it with a Trustfire flame (real one) and it pulls 2.7amps :)

If you need extra runtime try the fake trustfire! XD - sorry couldnt resist...

LOL. Still waiting on those fake Trustfires. I tried an unprotected fully charged Ultrafire blue 2400mah and it only gets 1.00amp pull.

Fortunately i have a bunch of good cells. A few XTAR 18700 2400 protected - same thing as 18650 protected size wise and some Himax 2600 mAh (formerly known as WOW). Both are pretty decent. Only The XTAR cell have kicked the low voltage protection yet have to see if the himax works.

Waitng for my 4 distrustifre errr... for a refund.

wait? i dont see it on Cutter's website. care to link me?

send me a private cause this thread is too big to follow nemore

This is the page for the T5 and T6 on 14mm stars

http://cutter.com.au/products.php?cat=Leds+on+14mm+MCPCB

I see you guys were discussing about different tints for the T5 and T6. I don't see any greenish tint from my T6. I think it has the perfect tint. Any comparisons of T6 vs. T5?

Once I got mine outside, I noticed a little bit of greenish tint to it. Not enough to really worry about though. The tint seems to be a lottery with any LED. At CPF people are complaining about the greenish tints on their XP-G S2 Quarks. But I remember people making the same complaint about the R5's when those came out. 4Sevens says they can't control it, and if they are buying all the S2's they can get, they wouldn't be able to be choosy.