Lumintop GT4

Ah, good to know thanks

That may be the only way to make this light viable if they decide to move forward with it. Even TA said the GT4 design idea is dated

I am in. reserved

Yes the 70/70.2 and the XHP35 can be de-domed cleanly…. I have done it a few times…

Here is a too closely shaved XHP70.2 that started to burn….I soaked it in a strong thinner to remove the silicone. If you right click to view/enlarge + you can see the silicone and black specs of char.

Right click to view/enlarge+

Dome on the left, clean silicone free de-dome on the right.

BLF GT XHP35HI chemically de-domed XHP35 E4’s

It can be done… :wink:

Yeah it can, I did about 15 successful dedomes, but about 8 failed, so make sure you got real sharp tools a steady hand and few extra leds on hand won’t hurt as well.

Good advise extra emitters are a must!
Slicing and Dicing isn’t de-doming it’s slicing the dome off, the 70.2 dosen’t have bond wires, pretty hard to screw that up.

Now slicing too close can cause the LED to burn, or if you polish it/sand the silicone down, sometimes causes fishers in the silicone, and it could burn, only issue I have ever seen, but if caught in time can be saved, by chemical de-doming, where patience is a virtue….that is where I screw up, pulling phosphorous off the pad, removing the silicone before it’s ready to be removed, sometimes the silicone can never be removed with out ruining the phosphorous.

The old 70’s and the XHP35’s are the toughest, they have bond wires. The SST40’s even worse.

Not to mention that some dedomed emitters fail after an unpredictably long period of time. In my experience, the harder you drive the LED, the greater chance it has to burn. It does not necessarily have to be the phosphorus or the chip itself, but even remnants of the silicone that have been fine for a year or even two might suddenly burn without any warning.

Ya man, it really sucks, out of no where…light starts to go dimmer, then you look….SMOKE! :person_facepalming:

I have learned to use a UV light and check for silicone and missing phosphorous with a 10X glass then burn them in, on the rock and then with my test light, a SD75 Lexel Narsil/Infineon FET 6 volt driver with 4 VTC5A’s everything bypassed with 18awg, at 22-23 amps, if there is any remnants of silicone, this light will seek and destroy it.

I could give a crap about the LED, it’s the Reflector getting smoked I’m pissed about! (I usually purchase extra reflectors just in case) but now it’s really not worth it anymore, been there, done that, bought a shirt, burned it……….

But it was to say the least…. All in good fun!

So you can dedome it, but it might be ruined in the process and kinda sorta might not last long when pushed hard?

I guess in my head I didn’t see it as a viable option. At least now I know dedoming is possible.

Interesting. I have one that I shaved too close and it started burning. I have a new XHP70.2 on the way that I plan on slicing a little higher, but in the meantime I could try your method, I’ve already written the burnt XHP70.2 off.

I know previously we used petrol/gas to dedome XML’s and XPG’s, but you now mention strong thinners.

- Does it specifically need to be thinners?

- Would turpentine, benzine, surgical spirits, or any other solvent work as well?

- For how long do you leave it in the thinners? When do you know it’s ready?

  • Does the silicone float off, or do you have to peel it off?

Thanks

[quote=KawiBoy1428]

Do you need a GT-Reflector? I have a spare one becaus of my aspheric-mod.

The thinner is what we have on hand at work, it will destroy 2 part epoxy paint we use on our machines, it is very strong. I kept the burnt or closely shaved LED (s) soaked and some will fall off, some will blow off, and some can be coaxed off with a wet tipped Q’Tip ….Gently…you don’t want to pull the phosphorous off with it……

[quote=Wieselflinkpro]

Thanks for the offer, But I have 2, they were in the picture I posted. Thanks again!

A GT reflector, interesting… I am about to try a prototype driver with an XHP-35 and have been considering what to put it in… my thoughts lead me to wanting to build a light from scratch but I don’t know with what reflector. Can I get a GT reflector? Would I contact Lumintop or what?

I am selling my GT70, I just got it, still has the wrapper on it. Back in the box it goes. PM me if you anyone wants it.

Any possibility of the gt4 having a built in charger?

Not at this time, it was talked about but charging 8 cells in 4S series is no simple task and not one I trusted to a cheap budget option crammed into a light. Not to mention the stupid amount of time it would take to charge.

Better to just use an external charger.

To do it safely or “correctly” you would probably need to go the same route as other companies did such as Olight and Imalent. You’d need to have a sealed battery pack with a BMS (battery management system). Then you could charge it at 2A@19v for decent charge times.

I’m not a big fan of battery packs and most people on BLF aren’t either. So you have to decide which would you rather have, convenient charging at the expense of a more expensive battery pack where you can’t choose what cells you want or to run only 4 cells, etc… Or slightly less convenient charging, but have full control of what batteries and whether to run 4 or 8 celks and have cheaper costs.

So each option has their advantages and disadvantages.

At this point in time I don’t even know if the GT battery tubes would even be capable of running a battery pack. Is there enough room inside? Maybe they can use the existing tube and design a new tail cap with the charging port inside? IDK.

Makes perfect sense thank you.

Is there an update on the release date? Last I recall was sometime after the Chinese New year.

There are issues that need to be addressed with the prototype, so figure it will be some time before it is ready for production.