Prototype off-road/boating spotlight - King COB!

Heh. I hate DJI. My latest aircraft outperforms almost everything else out there but it isn’t cheap… or small.

A friend of mine flies a heli I designed for him and he gets work others can’t because he doesn’t have a DJI. It also doesn’t hurt that he flies with an A7R and a Black Magic Cinema 4k.

The focus of the video really was the water cooling solution for the heat… :wink:

Yeah, I just don’t have the time I used to for making a frame, buying all the components, testing and assembling, testing some more, etc. I’m not the biggest DJI fan but I spend more time now flying than at my bench. One day I’ll get back into it.

Also, being within 20 miles from four airports, one international, means I have to travel far to fly a big drone. On the contrary, I send my Mavic Pro on stealth missions quite regularly LOLOL… now if only it could lift my COB cannon…

Yeah it remains an option, but for me with a single COB it’s probably overkill. Heck even with his setup, he could have taken four heatsink extrusions and two large fans, and it’d probably cooled better. Also just because he puts 16 100W COB LED modules, doesn’t mean he’s pulling 1600W of power. Judging from the video alone, my AceBeam X80 looks just as bright, at least for 1 minute, and I can hold it easily with one hand. Now if I could just install water-cooling on that!

Just saying that radiator does not look like it would dissipate all that heat for too long before his cooling system gets overwhelmed.

I’m trying to find someone to help design a more powerful driver and also looking into possibly designing it myself.

On the other hand, there are a lot of cheap “1800w” boost drivers out there from china that could be used if you didn’t want adjustable output or other “features”. I may get one just to play with since I don’t really have any other way to test things portably. I also feel better getting something “rated” for far more than I need given the nature of boost electronics and marketing “ratings”.

Yeah, there’s no way that tiny little radiator would keep 1600w cool. He’s mainly using the thermal mass of the water and the radiator probably just slowly cools it back down after a short run.

I found a cheap 900W boost driver to screw around with as well. I just need more battery!

The white plastic LEDiL “reflector” isn’t much of a reflector as a lot of light actually punches through the plastic.

More of a “diffuser…”

LOL at 2A (11k lm OTF) with the F13402 ANGELINA-W it’s brighter than the street light outside. I really need a way to play with this thing running off batteries. I just moved my power supply to the garage and pointed it out the door. :smiley:

There are a few gaps in the Ideal clamp parts that the reflector clips into which I find annoying.

The giant pin heatsink I got from RapidLEDs is actually bigger than the inside of the battle lantern.

I wouldn’t mind a slightly tighter beam. I need to get an F13401_ANGELINA-M “30degree” since with the big CXB3590 it will actually produce a 54degree beam which I think will yield a bit more margin on me not blinding my wife by accident.

I found the Stratus LED reflector does a good job of making a slightly tighter beam… but it’s not exactly plug and play with the 3590

IIRC, I don’t have room for the Stratus LED reflector in the Battle Lantern.

For the CMA3090, the LEDiL Molly series is interesting. Middle of the road optical efficiency (86-89%) but honestly, nice beam profiles and pretty darn compact.

Looks like I was wrong about Bridgelux VeroSE. Their specs are all over the place depending on which exact LED you’re looking at. I found one that I’m working up a spreadsheet for…

They have some Vero29 series that’ll do 40k lumens at ~250w! Some of the LEDiL reflectors don’t look all too bad either.

C12598_LENINA-M looks pretty decent. With the giant 29mm die some of these reflectors make some really wonky beams.

That is cool… But I’m having a hard time getiing 160W with batteries!!! For a wired light however that seems pretty good.

What I find amazing is how tight the beam can supposedly be with some COBs. Yeah with some of the larger comes it would seem they’d make a donut hole at enough distance. Or more likely that using the base, the COB is not optimally focused with the reflector.

10A max input current

https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-900W-15A-DC-Boost-Converter-8-60V-To-10-120V-NC-CC-CV-Power-Module-LED-Solar-/252509996545

Under $20… this is the one I got, at that price it’s good to putz around with…

@LouieAtienze, what do you mean your cells can’t keep up at 160W?

4x18650s lights can keep up quite well at 200W, and even higher for 15-20A cells.

Looking at yours again, I much like the mobile app control and LCD display. I may have to get one now when I have more discretionary cash…

Well, I’d like the boost converter to run somewhat efficiently, and I don’t know if I want to spend any more cash for decent 18650s… Especially when I have all these LiPos sitting around from my DIY drone days (which really was not that long ago hehehe.) Maybe not too bad for a 36V COB, but for 48V @ 3.6A I’m not so sure how efficient the boost converter will be working then - I could be wrong. The other thing is capacity - I have 5200mAh, 7500mAh LiPos already. I just don’t want to spend too much more than necessary on this project, so trying to work with what I have. I also don’t want to kill my good 18650s - I save those for my flashlights. These could be handheld, but I would consider them to me more of a “portable outdoor lighting solution” that I can run on max for more than a few minutes. Unless you happen to know of an LED boost driver that will work. I have a TaskLED HyperBoost, and I’ve seen Matt VoB light a 3590 in a GT with it, but he used 8 18650s in series by modding the carriers from parallel to series.