It looks like it would work on a baseball cap, if it’s not too heavy, but wouldn’t work very well in most other places. If I had one I would probably take the clip off, or maybe break off the extra fold.
TK, since no one from Maukka’s review has asked here yet, can you tell us why the two battery tubes in the FW3A can not be equally lengthened 0.5mm to 1mm so as to make it fit both flat top and button top batteries?
(Right now it only fits some button top, but not all. Max battery length is 66mm)
I figure there must be a reason and it was probably determined over a year ago, but people where asking and I don’t know the answer.
It’s mostly just too late, and would risk making shorter batteries lose contact when bumped.
Also, I think Lumintop may have only a compiled version of the 3D model, without any way to modify it. They might need the original from Fritz instead of an exported / compiled version. I’m not sure about the details though.
I'm surprised this has even come up. High-drain cells are flat-top by default. Button-tops are weird and abnormal for high-drain, unprotected cells. (I actually had to be very careful buying batteries for my L6 for this reason!)
Aren't most super-compact lights advertised similarly, some kind of "unprotected/flat-top only, others may not fit"? My Zebralight SC62, Lumzoo GH10, and Emisar D4 all have battery fitment concerns. Two of those aren't even high-drain! I'm sure we will get reviews very quickly in which members measure very precisely and test with a variety of cells, between protected and not, button-top and not.
I increased the available inner length of four Utorch UT01s by simply adding a snug-fitted circle of copper wire inside the tailcap, such that it makes full contact with the end of the tube. Takes five minutes, and works like a charm. It’s a very easy way to add a couple of mm’s.
I suppose this light might be somehow structurally different to prevent that from working, but it’s one potential fix if length is a problem.
No, no, it makes no difference if it’s a high drain or low drain or high capacity or whatever. All the 18650s from the “Big 5” Japanese companies (Sanyo, Panasonic, Sony, Samsung and LG) only come as flat top. It is the distributors that will add the button top which is why there are so many different sizes and styles of button top.
Now if your talking about any other battery company, then the sky is the limit and anything is possible. You can get 18650 batteries made in smaller factories as well as all different sizes, top configurations and protection circuitry. Some smalker companies will even take a Big 5 battery and rewrap it with and without a button top and/or protection circuitry.
There’s no way to do that on the FW3A that I can see. There’s no need for it either. Just use a flat top. I bet Neal will offer it with a battery installed like he did with other lights. At least I hope so.
A good flat top like a Samsung 30Q or 35E should only cost $5. I don’t see the need for anyone to get worked up over this battery.
I don’t have an FW3A. However, I suspect it would be possible to mod the light for extra length providing there are sufficient threads to allow it to be unscrewed enough and still hold together.
However, it would take some experimentation and would certainly take a lot more than 5 minutes.
A single c-ring created from wire or a narrow copper ring would not be sufficient. You would need 2 rings: 1 for the inner tube and one for the outer. And they would need to be separated by some kind of insulating material. Kapton tape or maybe Arctic Alumina epoxy.
These rings would need to be roughly the same thickness as the stock body and inner tubes with a similar gap between. They would also need to be the same height. Get it wrong and the switch won’t work right.
Easiest way to do it is probably to:
Cut a very thin uniform length from a copper sheet. Try to make it as narrow as possible. Maybe 1-2 mm thick.
Cut the strip into 2 separate pieces.
Bend each strip into a C-ring. One for the inner tube, one for the outer. Test for fit.
Run a couple strips of kapton tape along the transition between the two tubes. Maybe super-glue it in place.
Super-glue the other other tube to the top of the kapton tape.
Use a knife and trim off any kapton tape sticking out the top or bottom of your c-ring sandwich.
File the top and bottom of the rings so they are completely uniform.
If necessary to maintain good battery contact, replace one of the stock springs with a longer low-resistance spring.
Special Order / Ready for purchase_In your dreams_.
FW3UN = Unoptainium
_ Use within attention to CAUTION listed
FW3Ga = Galluim
_ Caution & Protective Gear Required
Could be & probably Will Be HAZARDOUS to Health & Life!!
..!..USE AT YOUR OWN RISK & PERIL….!.
FW3PL = Plutonium
FW3U R = Uranium - Raw
_
…………….FOR COMPLETELY HOMEMADE LIGHTS ONLY…………….
TRY TO USE ONLY IF YOU HAVE A DEATH WISH, BECAUSE YOU WILL DIE
YES…. DIE!! GRAVE YARD DEAD. YOU WILL MOST LIKELY BE IN TINY BITS.
FW3AA = Azidoazide Azide
_ SciFi Models
FW3Ad = Adamantium
FW3CD = Carbon Dioxide
FW3DG = Dragon Glass
FW3DI = Dry Ice
FW3Kr = Kryptonite
FW3LN = Liquid Nitro
FW3Mi = Mithril
FW3MF = “Mr. Fusion” (power source)
FW3TAl = Transparent Aluminum
FW3Vi = Vibranium
_ PENDING
FW3XX = ???
Please Note:
1.If your model or suggestion was omitted, my apologies; I simply overlooked it.
2. THE LISTwill be update until the FW3A is announced for sale. After that there will be no further updates. . It will be time at that point to get real serious about reading the “I ordered mine.” or “I ordered 3.” , etc., etc. posts.
………
Please …… Do Not “Quote” this looooong post. . Thank you.
…… Added…. 22 February 2019
FW3AC = Apple Coral (Melithea)
FW3DG = Dragon Glass
FW3F = Fire (an even cheaper copy of the FW3XXX. Use at own risk.)
FW3Iv = Ivory
FW3Ob = Obsidian
FW3PP = Personal Preference (have it your way... everything is optional)
Thanks for the reply TK
I have an 18650 A6 with a reverse clip on a cap that I keep on a nail by the door. I use it more frequently than any other light(including Emisars). Although the business end hangs over a bit, weight is not a problem if the cap is ‘secure’. I dont think the FW3A is as long. I was hoping someone might know a good supplier for clips that are similar this one that I could mod. If it involves more than just dremeling the ring, I probably wont go to the trouble. Anyone?
Isn’t it a little difficult to use a tail switch on a baseball-cap light? It seems like it would be a lot easier to use a side switch. Instead of a FW3A, for that purpose I’d probably try an Olight S2 or similar.
Not really with the 18650 A6 but I also tried it with a 18350 short tube and that does carry better but at the cost of runtime. The longer tube really isnt that bad when you need two hands.
You know I agree that generally the dual direction clip is a great theory that fails in execution and real use, mostly due to overall thickness and poor shape. The FW3A though has a really good chance to change that with the tapered tube, since the ‘gap’ in head-down mode is ‘inside’ the diameter. As demonstrated in the rendering I quoted, there’s no excessive thickness and it looks very possible to work well. Granted, with that said, I don’t ever carry or utilize this design with tail-switch lights and I don’t wear duck-billed caps (I have other headlamps), but plenty may want one, and I think there is space in the after-market for this design to be offered.