Thanks robo. Interesting how different the throws are with just a change of led.
We’re going a bit on the wrong direction in what I like for an all around light. I prefer a large hot spot, soft spread with more light in the spill. The range of use will be about 200 feet.
On your bottom two pictures, I prefer the stock to the mod.
I have a cheap coast light with adjustable lens. I like the full spread light when doing chores or taking outside. A 500 lumen version of that would be interesting.
If I can’t get what I want, who cares, 10 buck light. I’ll still fool around and maybe do what you did.
NO problems…….Just a change to a better LED would probably be the thing for what you are saying. Something like the XP-L V6 3D with the dome left on it would give a pretty good neutral tint (around 5000K) and the kind of coverage you see in the “Stock Light” picture.
If you went with a more powerful driver like the FET , then you would also gain a lot in the lumens along with the better tint.
Whoosh….over my head….I’m playing tennis with a ping pong paddle.
I’m getting the light in a few days. Then I’m going to take it apart and you guys can torture me while I ask stupid questions. Actually, buy a few more so i could do comparisons.
BTW…when you say the XP-L V6 3D is a better led. How? Three criteria matter…ay least in what o consider criteria….lumens, CRI and efficiency. Does that the XP-L best the OEM led?
The XP-L2 emitters tend to make the olive color in the corona area , as do many of the emitters that have the phosphor all the way to the edges of the substrate. The XP-L V6 in the VG10 should give you a much better (smoother) overall tint in my opinion , the lumens probably wont differ that much between the 2 emitters , especially if you stay with a stock driver. I am not sure how the efficiency stacks up between the 2 though as I don’t usually leave the XP-L2 emitters in anything because I hate that olive color around the edges.
EDIT: The stock driver is probably making around 3 amps? With a FET and XP-L V6 you should get on up around 5.5 to 6 amps , but then there goes the efficiency in the high and or turbo mode. You would have the power there if you wanted it , but if you used the “Standard” firmware with either 5 or 6 modes , then you could run in a lower mode (3rd or 4th level) and get close to the 3 amps of the original driver. The FET would be one like THIS or THIS
Also your preference of tint would come into play……in the XP-L V6 the 1A for cool (6500K to 7000K) and for the more neutral tint the 3D (4750K to 5000K).
I wonder if using DC-Fix could bring the stock light closer to your ideal characteristics. Would lessen the coloured corona, and trade some of the beam’s throw for flood.
…sigh, now I want to grab a couple more of these myself…
DC Fix is diffusion film that spreads out , or diffuses the light (sticks on the lens). The thing with it (if you are after the best output) is that you do lose some lumens when using any kind of film or filter.
Probably end up ruining the reflector because the coating inside is very delicate and will chip , scratch and flake very easily. I have enlarged the hole in the bottom of the reflectors a few times , but it must be done slowly and carefully even then.
a) Would this Thorfire VG10S make a good mounted light.
b) How easy would it be to Mod to single mode only.
c) Would a Convoy C8 (or other) pressure switch fit.
Just kicking around a few economical idea’s………. Thanks
I think it would make a great airsoft light. The body is well made and the mid output is pretty good. I doubt it will get hot at mid output. The hot spot that annoys me would be perfect for you.