Whoosh….over my head….I’m playing tennis with a ping pong paddle.
I’m getting the light in a few days. Then I’m going to take it apart and you guys can torture me while I ask stupid questions. Actually, buy a few more so i could do comparisons.
BTW…when you say the XP-L V6 3D is a better led. How? Three criteria matter…ay least in what o consider criteria….lumens, CRI and efficiency. Does that the XP-L best the OEM led?
The XP-L2 emitters tend to make the olive color in the corona area , as do many of the emitters that have the phosphor all the way to the edges of the substrate. The XP-L V6 in the VG10 should give you a much better (smoother) overall tint in my opinion , the lumens probably wont differ that much between the 2 emitters , especially if you stay with a stock driver. I am not sure how the efficiency stacks up between the 2 though as I don’t usually leave the XP-L2 emitters in anything because I hate that olive color around the edges.
EDIT: The stock driver is probably making around 3 amps? With a FET and XP-L V6 you should get on up around 5.5 to 6 amps , but then there goes the efficiency in the high and or turbo mode. You would have the power there if you wanted it , but if you used the “Standard” firmware with either 5 or 6 modes , then you could run in a lower mode (3rd or 4th level) and get close to the 3 amps of the original driver. The FET would be one like THIS or THIS
Also your preference of tint would come into play……in the XP-L V6 the 1A for cool (6500K to 7000K) and for the more neutral tint the 3D (4750K to 5000K).
I wonder if using DC-Fix could bring the stock light closer to your ideal characteristics. Would lessen the coloured corona, and trade some of the beam’s throw for flood.
…sigh, now I want to grab a couple more of these myself…
DC Fix is diffusion film that spreads out , or diffuses the light (sticks on the lens). The thing with it (if you are after the best output) is that you do lose some lumens when using any kind of film or filter.
Probably end up ruining the reflector because the coating inside is very delicate and will chip , scratch and flake very easily. I have enlarged the hole in the bottom of the reflectors a few times , but it must be done slowly and carefully even then.
a) Would this Thorfire VG10S make a good mounted light.
b) How easy would it be to Mod to single mode only.
c) Would a Convoy C8 (or other) pressure switch fit.
Just kicking around a few economical idea’s………. Thanks
I think it would make a great airsoft light. The body is well made and the mid output is pretty good. I doubt it will get hot at mid output. The hot spot that annoys me would be perfect for you.
If you’re going to sand down the reflector (on the bottom, where the LED opening is) to de-focus it a little and get a wider beam, that can work. Just try a tiny bit at a time. It doesn’t take much to get out of focus. In fact, you might just pull the centering ring out and get enough by sanding it down instead. You probably need to back-fill at the top with a thick o-ring between the reflector and lens.