The XP-L2 emitters tend to make the olive color in the corona area , as do many of the emitters that have the phosphor all the way to the edges of the substrate. The XP-L V6 in the VG10 should give you a much better (smoother) overall tint in my opinion , the lumens probably wont differ that much between the 2 emitters , especially if you stay with a stock driver. I am not sure how the efficiency stacks up between the 2 though as I don’t usually leave the XP-L2 emitters in anything because I hate that olive color around the edges.
EDIT: The stock driver is probably making around 3 amps? With a FET and XP-L V6 you should get on up around 5.5 to 6 amps , but then there goes the efficiency in the high and or turbo mode. You would have the power there if you wanted it , but if you used the “Standard” firmware with either 5 or 6 modes , then you could run in a lower mode (3rd or 4th level) and get close to the 3 amps of the original driver. The FET would be one like THIS or THIS
Also your preference of tint would come into play……in the XP-L V6 the 1A for cool (6500K to 7000K) and for the more neutral tint the 3D (4750K to 5000K).
I wonder if using DC-Fix could bring the stock light closer to your ideal characteristics. Would lessen the coloured corona, and trade some of the beam’s throw for flood.
…sigh, now I want to grab a couple more of these myself…
DC Fix is diffusion film that spreads out , or diffuses the light (sticks on the lens). The thing with it (if you are after the best output) is that you do lose some lumens when using any kind of film or filter.
Probably end up ruining the reflector because the coating inside is very delicate and will chip , scratch and flake very easily. I have enlarged the hole in the bottom of the reflectors a few times , but it must be done slowly and carefully even then.
a) Would this Thorfire VG10S make a good mounted light.
b) How easy would it be to Mod to single mode only.
c) Would a Convoy C8 (or other) pressure switch fit.
Just kicking around a few economical idea’s………. Thanks
I think it would make a great airsoft light. The body is well made and the mid output is pretty good. I doubt it will get hot at mid output. The hot spot that annoys me would be perfect for you.
If you’re going to sand down the reflector (on the bottom, where the LED opening is) to de-focus it a little and get a wider beam, that can work. Just try a tiny bit at a time. It doesn’t take much to get out of focus. In fact, you might just pull the centering ring out and get enough by sanding it down instead. You probably need to back-fill at the top with a thick o-ring between the reflector and lens.
I’m expecting that a few mm can make a huge difference. Just don’t want to land up with an ugly black ring.
My first hurtle is that I don’t mind fixing things, but don’t like to break things. I tried to unscrew it by hand but got nowhere fast. I know I saw a thread where someone had taken apart the VG10. A bit of vodka fortifier……and I’m going to try it the next few days.
A few mm could make it a mule. I’d start with 1/2 mm, then go 1/4 mm at a time until it looked right. Unless mule is what you’re going for. In which case, you could just take the reflector out and not use it at all.
I’ve found that when dealing with a stubborn bezel, sticking some hockey tape along the webbing of your hand between your thumb and index finger can really help you get a good grip on it, and also protect yourself from getting cut by a crenelated edge.