FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight - SST-20 available, coupon codes public

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tatasal
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BlueSwordM wrote:
Couldn’t they just order LH351D emitters outside of China?

Or do they not want that?

Obviously Lumintop (or any company for that matter) can but I don’t want to speculate on that.

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No problem.

Thanks a lot for the updates still!

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tatasal
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BlueSwordM wrote:
No problem.

Thanks a lot for the updates still!

Thumbs Up Beer
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Firelight2 wrote:
DavidEF wrote:
ToyKeeper wrote:
Firelight2 wrote:
XPL HI (probably two 5000K and one 4000K) and the optic to 10507.

That’ll produce a pretty strange beam pattern. XP-L HI + 10507 tends to have fairly visible artifacts, and you’d be getting artifacts in two different colors.


That might be exactly what he’s going for. Look at his username. Maybe he’s going to run it on candle mode and watch the artifacts flicker all over the place. Party
Actually, I modded lights with mixed emitters and the Carclo 10507 years ago. Before quads were common, the big thing everyone modded were triples and I converted numerous lights to them including the Sunwayman C20C, DQG Tiny III, and Convoy S2+.

When you mix emitter tints in these small triples the hotspot and most of the spill is a completely uniform mix with no artifacts that perfectly blends the emitters into a uniform new tint. You don’t even notice that different emitter tints were used unless you turn the light on in moonlight and look into the bezel, or shine it on a white wall from an inch away. Even from a foot away the beams blend almost perfectly. Not suprising since the hotspots are probably a foot wide and the emitters are maybe 1 cm separated.

The only artifacts the 10507 produces are a ring of flower petal like shapes at the edges outside the beam. These petals come from individual emitters so will be different colors and won’t blend. But the reality is they aren’t really noticeable except when looking at a white wall and spinning the light like a pinwheel in your hand. They also don’t look at all ugly.

But a light like this, aren’t all the emitters just tied in parallel, with nothing to balance the current? Mixed emitters would likely have varying forward voltages, which means that the lower Vf device would tend to hog the current.

ToyKeeper
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funkychateau wrote:
aren’t all the emitters just tied in parallel, with nothing to balance the current? Mixed emitters would likely have varying forward voltages, which means that the lower Vf device would tend to hog the current.

Yes… but usually this is not a problem when mixing the same type of emitter in different tints. They have the same Vf.

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I’ll take two.
One of each led set.
One of each finish.
Preferably ‘clear’ anodized aluminum over raw.

Nice job Fritz & team !

"Let there be light" is an English translation of the Latin phrase fiat lux.

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Flash Foto wrote:
I’ll take two.
One of each led set.
One of each finish.
Preferably ‘clear’ anodized aluminum over raw.

Nice job Fritz & team !


There is only one finish. No clear/raw. Just the darker gray.

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TylerDurdenThree
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Please put me down for 1. Thank You.

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I’d like one please. Thank you

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>>>LH351D may happen a few weeks after XP-L HI, due to lead time in sourcing parts.
>>>Anodizing is dark grey.
>>>Unanodized bare aluminum might happen later, but this isn’t determined yet. <<<

I am simply saying that I would like to show interest/buy a second FW3A in a finish of raw/clear aluminum if/when available.
I did this with the FireFlies E07. 1st a Grey anodized XP-L Hi 5000K at release.
Then got a clear aluminum (SST-20 4000K Hi CRI) when that finish option came out later.

"Let there be light" is an English translation of the Latin phrase fiat lux.

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Okay, but raw/clear aluminum is not part of this group buy.

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I send my Proto4 to my friend Andreas for beamshots.

Beamshots from Andreas

Thank you Andreas for your great work. Thumbs Up

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Bluzie wrote:
I send my Proto4 to my friend Andreas for beamshots. Beamshots from Andreas

Thank you Andreas for your great work. Thumbs Up


Thanks Bluzie and Andreas! It surely shows how the beam looks like, and i’m liking it Wink
BTW, that is with a 10508 Carclo, not the originally intended 10511 which will give a different beam with more hotspot, not so wide!
I do like it this way too, though as there are no beam artifacts Wink
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Bluzie wrote:
I send my Proto4 to my friend Andreas for beamshots. Beamshots from Andreas

Thank you Andreas for your great work. Thumbs Up


Wow, the gray anodization has a bit more blue in it than I realized.

Maybe these pictures were taken under a bright light. (Probably, maybe it’s due to a certain temperature of light that adds a blue tint)

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tatasal
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Perhaps the blueish tint is most probably the result of lighting (which affect the tint of the gray finish) when the photos were taken.

I have posted this photo elsewhere, and as an example of that effect, to show the change of gray to blueish, of the same light and time of photo-taking ( the right photo is the real gray finish of the Avaritia NA40SE) are the photos below:

More photos from this thread: HERE

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Certainly not being the best person to brag about his photographic skills,
but I think that every person involved has shown us a photo with a different color of ano.
And I can’t imagine that LT fills a fresh bath of ano for every copy they send.

Is it possible to send one of the last specimen to a professional photographer, like DBCustom?
Or is it advisable to publish only photo’s of the FW3A in the company of well known lights?

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tatasal wrote:
Perhaps the blueish tint is most probably the result of lighting (which affect the tint of the gray finish) when the photos were taken.

I have posted this photo elsewhere, and as an example of that effect, to show the change of gray to blueish, of the same light and time of photo-taking (the right photo is the real gray finish of the Avaritia NA40SE) are the photos below:

More photos from this thread: HERE

/\ .. THIS .. /\

Agreed, thanks tatasal. . Thumbs Up

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Henk4U2 wrote:

And I can’t imagine that LT fills a fresh bath of ano for every copy they send.

They don’t do this themselves. It’s outsourced, afaik.

The exact color doesn’t matter to me. They all look good. Party

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JasonWW wrote:

The exact color doesn’t matter to me. They all look good. Party
Amen!! . Thumbs Up . Beer Beer

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

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mortuus
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yes i agree with others all colors so far looks good.

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Regarding emitter options: I’d actually prefer SST-20 over LH351D in this light. In fact, I’ll be installing some regardless. I know that means my vote shouldn’t count for much, but at least consider my reasoning.

It’s true that the SST-20 are dimmer than either the LH351D or the XP-L HI, and almost certainly have worse tint than the XP-L HI. However, let’s not get bogged down with comparisons to the XP-L HI since that’s an excellent choice and is getting produced either way. And the SST-20 isn’t going to have significantly worse tint than the LH351D; they’re both known to have fairly green binning on average if you don’t shop carefully.

The LH351D is a much floodier emitter than theSST-20 (which throws more like the XP-L HI), and in an already-floody 20mm triple TIR it’s going to be wasteful. You’re going to need to run a higher brightness level to light up a particular distance away. The SST-20 is much less efficient in an integrating sphere, but especially in a ramping light you aren’t going to ramp up to the same number of lumens on both options and then complain about how much hotter the SST-20 is getting – you’re going to ramp to the same number of lux on a particular target, because that’s the brightness you can perceive. And the SST-20 will be using less power than the LH351D to get there, not more.

If you care mostly about tint and efficiency, the XP-L HI is still your choice. But if you’re concerned more with CRI (especially R9), in actual use the SST-20 is a great option. I’ve got them in my Emisar D4 and their tight beam makes the light far more useful than the numbers would suggest. And, for a back-to-back comparison, I pulled the SST-20 out of my D4S and installed LH351D’s, because in that larger head they were too focused.

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I like the beamshots with the 10508 Carclo a lot. I will mostly use this light to light up thing close distance. So a very evenly floody beam would be nice.
So i hope they can get the LH351D. And i will most likely try to change the optic to a 10508 or something similar.

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Here’s a calibrated photo of the FW3A. Used the X-rite colorchecker passport to generate a .dcp color correction profile for the Viltrox LED panel and Panasonic DMC-GM1 mirrorless SLR. It’s not as blue as the previous photo would suggest. Very slight bluish shift on the grey.

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Thanks maukka, nice work & pictures!! . Thumbs Up . Beer

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

       Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$  

         Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart  

      Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help???            TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal 

 

                                             

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Of all the 50 shades of grey, this is a particular nice one!
Thanks maukka Thumbs Up

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teacher wrote:
Thanks maukka, nice work & pictures!! . Thumbs Up . Beer

+1 awesome stuff Thumbs Up

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That looks so smart. Can’t wait to get mine

Notable lights: Q8 with 4 x 3V XHP50.2, bypassed springs, brass driver and tailcap screws, Anduril firmware, removed anodisation, AR glass, warm white switch LEDs (16,800lm)  |  Convoy S2+ with triple Luxeon V 4000k, Led4Power B4 Driver, Carclo 10507, bypassed springs (2900lm)  |   D18 in sand  |  D4V2 in sand  |  D4S in grey  |   FW3A with warm white XP-L HI  |   KR4 Mule in blue

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Fantastic picture maukka. Looks classy! I really like the colour.

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Henk4U2 wrote:
Certainly not being the best person to brag about his photographic skills,
but I think that every person involved has shown us a photo with a different color of ano.
And I can’t imagine that LT fills a fresh bath of ano for every copy they send.

Is it possible to send one of the last specimen to a professional photographer, like DBCustom?
Or is it advisable to publish only photo’s of the FW3A in the company of well known lights?

The anodising is grey, which behaves similar like white surfaces. Depending on the surrounding color you get a slight color on grey or white. E.g. wear a blue shirt it looks blue and with a green jacket greenish.

In a white fotobox it sould look grey.

Edit: Or you simply look at Maukkas picture Wink

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JasonWW wrote:
Wow, the gray anodization has a bit more blue in it than I realized.

It’s only slightly blue-tinted. If I take an average color value from each of three people’s pictures, and normalize them, here’s what I found:

  • R/G/B = 77.7% / 88.3% / 100.0% Bluzie
  • R/G/B = 89.0% / 93.8% / 100.0% TK
  • R/G/B = 94.0% / 97.0% / 100.0% Maukka

Maukka’s pictures are color-calibrated, so I’d trust those values the most. If I understand correctly, the others used auto white balance so their colors may be skewed.

Bluzie:

TK:

Maukka:

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