BLF driver programming key v3.2 launched on Oshpark

yeah just see I made the mistake not taking into account that the design program has vottom side mirrored
so the 10 pin connectors does not work 1:1, reverse 4 soldered leads should be no problem

atm in customs with C8F 21700, MF04S, prototype D1S, D4, D4S, MF01 aux LED boards

And yesterday is… today :smiley:

It’s really that good.

The picture shows a 4+4 key and the driver I was working on at the time I ordered the key. The DD+1 driver is 17mm and just there for size comparison.
The key-pcb is 10mm x 27mm, at the pogo-pins the pcb is only 5.6mm, that will fit about anywhere. When you only use 3x3, you can file the key even narrower.
Pcb width is 0.8mm. Pogo-pins are 0.68mm diameter, 16mm long. Via drills on the driver are 16mil (0.4064mm). Distances are 1.3mm between left and right vias and 1.5mm between up and down vias.

Just programmed a driver and it’s a hoot.

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The size of the key is perfectly fine, can be put between thumb and middle finger with the index finger on top, gently pushing the springs of the pogo pins down. With 6 vias, aligning is of course a breeze.

Refined the key a bit, not much really. I’ll make at least two versions:

- A neutral one marked from A to H, where up to 4+4 can be used. With connectors any combination can be plugged on the fly

  • A key marked with the pin numbers of the Attinys in my preferred layout

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EDIT: I shared them here

I also got my final revision 3.2 also launched now,

too bad I got made 120 boards here where the 10 pin header wont work and solder connection markings do not fit if want flash driver from bottom side
the pins are mirrored because I made an mistake looking in my program on drivers bottom which auto mirrors

Order in 2OZ for 0.8mm board thickness from Oshpark!

https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/o1pUPNqt

I got some that cant use the header as they were produced mirrored

applying solder paste one side
soldering pins to it and applying thermal glue for 2. side reflow

Both sides soldered, fine alignment of the pind with soldering iron carefully after that picture

Are you selling the assembled keys?

Yes, I have one.
But not jet soldered the cable on it.
Pogo-Pins are ready applied by lexel.

I see, how much for an assembled key shipped to the US?

for the mirrored key its 3.5$ shipped

I got ones that now also fit the socket 1:1 but need to assemble a few then running out of pogo pins

So the new ones can just plug right into the usbasp correct? I will wait for those then I will most likely buy 2 to play with.

HarleyQuin and Lexel, do you have pinout and pcb layout recommendation for the programming pin connector? I think it make sense to standardize something for easy use on many drivers types.

the only one for pinout and pad pattern I see so far is loneoceans pogoprog here: pogoProg - Small AVR microcontroller pogo-pin Header but it look like everyone using slightly different spacing and pinout?

Yes, a standard pinout and via pattern would be good.

Lexel, do you have a diptrace pattern for the via pattern you use? Thinking about adding this to the GT4 driver.

Diptrace Libary with different variants of them

http://www.metronixlaser.de/bilder/flashlight/programming.lib

Eh, 6 pads is so overrated… 3 is more my style :wink:

I’ll give 6 pads a shot, though. Lexel, are all v3.2 fixed (not mirrored)? Or was the mirroring only on the 10-pin connector? I had trouble flashing this board (my first attempt at using your pgm key), but I think it was probably my driver design at fault.

Quoting this to say I’m still hoping somebody does a complete flashing kit that includes all the cables, plugs, clamps, etc. and this key. Convenience is a strong selling point for me. I haven’t started flashing yet for various reasons. Having a complete kit to buy from one place would knock out a couple of those reasons. :wink:

EDIT: I’d still want the kit to include the usual programming clip because I already own some drivers that don’t have pogo pin programming on-board.

If I want the key to be used on the bottom of the driver, do I apply the via pattern to the bottom of the driver or to the top of the driver? I want to get the mirror issues right the first time lol.

I assume it should be applied to the bottom of the driver since not all the patterns use vias?

This is how the pinout looks like on the bottom side of the driver, just want to make sure it is correct since I don’t have a key to test it with:

In looking at my assembled key from a couple posts above, this looks right to me.



Different topic… I seem to be having trouble with (at least some of) my pogo pins. They don’t seem to be making full electrical connection unless I completely depress the pins and the sleeve itself makes contact with the pads. Is this normal? Or should I try some other pins? It makes trying to flash a chip extremely aggravating. I think I tried repositioning this stupid thing like 25 times last night before getting a good connection. :rage:

Thanks, since it does not look like I will be able to test it before it goes into production I wanted to double check.

You could try soaking them in Alcohol and pressing them in completely while soaking to work any gunk out of them.

I would also try putting a bit of downward/sideways pressure on them if possible to try to ensure that the internal pin makes contact with the sleeve.

That is all I can think of.

With the normal SOIC clip, I have found spraying some Alcohol on the clip and then flashing while the clip is still wet nets me an almost 100% success rate when I am having trouble flashing a mcu. Of course I try cleaning the MCU with Alcohol first but this seems to work when that fails almost every time unless the MCU is dead.

Yeah, I was thinking about doing a good cleaning. They seem like the should be foolproof… I’m sure it’s gotta be something simple and stupid (like dirty contacts)

Edit: it’s a tiny difference, but I see I used 0.35mm drills instead of 0.4mm. Perhaps the difference in contact area isn’t helping either.

vs 3.2 is not mirrored all solder spots and the 10 pin header should work

it has been proven that using viases is more reliable than just pads, so if you can put viases on the driver do it
usually gold plating helps or one side soft like solder that was already cleaned from flux residue

I guess that also some Pogo Pins may be not good

Have you got the new batch of keys put together yet? I would like to order a few so I can test it out when they are ready.