FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight - SST-20 available, coupon codes public

I’m in for for one xpl-hi

I use XP-L 4000k 5D in everything. Always very nice tint and usually goes a little pink.

Yep, the XP-L HI is my choice too. I am usually good with 2D to 4A… with 3A - 3D being the sweet spot.

Your probably right too about some people wanting to try another emitter. In fact, i had been hearing so much about the SST-20; I ordered a S2+ to try the 4000K 95CRI version. But after reading THIS that may well have been a mistake unless I just happen to get a good tint. Oh well, it was on sale for $10.99. :wink:

Will probably try a LH351D sometime too, if I know for sure it is a good tint.

Choosing an emitter solely based on saving money is a mistake from the start in my book.

For me, and this applies to most anything in life; sometimes the latest is not the greatest.
There is always a lot to be said for the ‘tried and true’. :+1:

teacher, that $10.99 is less than the cost of an S2+ host plus it’s got a biscotti driver. I say you came out way ahead. Just swap in your favorite led. I have one from Hank and ordered 4 more from banggood for giveaways.

Yeah, great deal, and a great way to try the SST-20. Our standards have changed quickly (meaning we are getting spoiled by more great lights at great prices), but this should be a very solid and useful flashlight.

Your exactly right shirnask… “cheaper than the host”. :+1: . That was the deciding factor on getting it, I figured it was a win - win on my end; whether I liked the SST-20 or not. :wink:

And, as cabfrank noted; it was a cheap way to try the SST-20 & get a decent light also. :+1:

Just a win-win all the way around…. :wink:

Do let us know what you think when you get it, teacher. I think it is quite tempting, even at around fifteen bucks.

i would like to buy one, with XP-L HI please

I certainly will my friend. :+1:
Also, I just checked; the $10.99 Coupon Code for the Convoy S2+ SST20 4000K 95CRI is still active. Get the details HERE:wink:

I’ll take 1 too thanks!!!

I prefer dark gray. It looks nothing but perfect on the calibrated photos.

Does R/G/B = 94.0% / 97.0% / 100.0% (for Manuka) equate to R=240, G=247, B=255? I'm trying to duplicate the FW3A color, out of curiosity, in HTML or Photoshop. Thanks!

Since ActiveAl brought it up, I too would be interested to know what this means, how you got “an average color value”, & how you arrived at those percentages.

It’s like Greek to me & I am very curious too. :slight_smile:

Thanks in advance…. :+1:

You just open the photo in Photoshop, use the dropper tool to pick up the color from a pixel of the picture, and read the RGB values.

OH…… Thank you EnlightenMe!! You have enlightened me…. :+1: . :slight_smile:

It’s fairly straightforward.

  1. Blur the image. Something like a Gaussian blur filter, with an appropriately-wide sample size for the given image. Maybe 20 to 50 pixels across, depending on the image. This makes each pixel an average of itself and every neighbor within N pixels.
  2. Use the eyedropper tool to read the R/G/B values from a region near the middle of the light.
  3. Note the highest of the three values. Multiply all three numbers by 100, divided by the noted highest value.

Also, it’s important to make sure beforehand that the original image isn’t clipping (overexposed) anywhere near the sampled region. I mean, make sure none of the values are maxed out, 255, in the original image… or at least not anywhere within N pixels of the sampled point, where N is the size of the Gaussian filter. Clipping distorts the data.

Thank you TK for that clear explanation. :slight_smile:

Great, what values did you get?

The values I get in Photoshop depend on where I "pick" the color - and they vary widely between the light and dark areas of the FW3A photos.

That’s why it’s important to blur the image first, to get an average. After blurring, the values will still vary from pixel to pixel, but they pretty much only vary in brightness, not hue. The ratio of red to green to blue doesn’t change much.

I wonder if GIMP has a filter to normalize each pixel individually. This would make it much easier to see changes in color without having to pay attention to brightness.

It is, but a word of warning, i ordered one on the 20th Feb using that link and code and got an e-mail on 1st March saying that the order had been delayed due to manufacturing process. I asked Simon and he confirmed here that there were no such issues. Could be a fake reason for a genuine delay but who knows.