Good catch! Didn’t read that far, just went with the headline.
And, of course, the 14mm AA diameter is more than half the 26mm diameter, and if 2AAs won’t fit 3 definitely won’t!
So ignore my suggestion
Heh — and here I was hoping for “Sure it’ll fit! 26650’s are usually closer to 27mm and their flashlights usually have at least a mm or two of slop!” I don’t have any 26650 lights to actually measure the inner diameters of, so I don’t know.
Ah, well.
I’d certainly think it would increase the market for 26650 lights if they fitted and were sold with 3xAA adapters. They have a decent “regular flashlight” hand-feel, and you can give them to the same muggles who don’t mind toy 3xAAA (i.e. 18650 in disguise) lights — except without the exceptionally poor runtime and the lack of decent amperage.
Maybe I’ll go put a post to that effect in the Sofirn suggestion thread…
Theory is theory but proof is proof, immediately after replying i did try and shove 3 AAs into my Cometa’s 26650 tube… no chance! I agree, we definitely need a couple of 3xAA lights that can also take a 26650, let me know what Sofirn say
I think a 26650 light that could fit 3xAA would be a great idea! The same flexibility that a 14500/AA light affords, but with much more usable capacity when running on Li-ion.
(Also, I can confirm that a Sofirn SP33 only has an inner diameter of about 26.5mm, so that one’s off the table too. At minimum, 3xAA squashed together is about a 30mm diameter, so I think that adapter’s dimensions are a little misleading.)
Wellp, for 4×AA you got the TN4A, TK4A, and SP…something, forgot. Thrunite/Thorfire/Sofirn, respectively, and all essentially the same light.
Dunno why you’d want to use those hateful little AAs, as they’ll take a dump in the light and ruin it, especially with multiple cells in series (2 worse’n 1; 4 worse’n 2).
And output will fall off from the first second they’re powered up.
NiMH is marginally better, won’t leak, but I still wouldn’t want to use 4 in series, as the first “weak link” that drops below 1.2V will almost instantly be reverse-charged and ruined.
NiMH is a lot better than alkaleaks, especially for power output. They’re not as good as lithium-ion, but a 1000+ lumen 4xAA light will easily run on NiMH.
Most good 4xAA lights have low-voltage cut-off, so shouldn’t reverse-charge your cells even if you have a weak one. Besides, I’ve reverse-charged Eneloops, and they’re still perfectly fine with no loss of capacity. Probably lost a few cycles, though, so it’s definitely not good for them.
One thing that 4xAA lights have going for them, is that you can find batteries absolutely everywhere. The alkaleaks certainly aren’t good, but it’s better than nothing if you have no other choice.
Yes you would be dead in a car here in summer under sun with windows rolled up. But I leave my lights in car in summer. my niece killed her dog leaving it in car a couple hours.
They’re starting off in the hole at 4.8V, and by the time one is spent, that’s a sudden drop to 3.6V. Hopefully that’s be low enough under load that a light that thinks its got alkaleaks would start warning you (as in blinking the light itself or cutting off, not just turning the indicator from yellow to red or something), but you’d have to know the spex of the light itself.
Marginally, but yeah. Still burning off the Rat Shacks and Rayovacs I unearthed…