Lumintop GT micro

That seems way too low. It uses the well-known FET+1 Avenger design with Narsil. 20uA are recommended there to charge the sample-and-hold capacitor inside the ATTiny to a reasonable level. It could be that they used a different resistor combination to get that low drain, someone with a production light would have to check that.

Excellent review, pictures, & info Jason, thank you!!

Great reviews… waiting anxiously for mine!

Jason, how long was the shipping ? Thank you.

I think Neal spent some extra money on shipping so I would get it fast and post up what I think about it. It took 8 days. Regular shipping will probably take 2 weeks or so to the US. That’s what it typically takes (outside of the busy holiday season).

I ordered fron Neal 11 days ago, paid full price with no discount for two lights, also paid $10 expedited shipping. No word, of course, on when the may show up…

you can send him a mail on Neal@m4dm4x.com
maybe that catches his attention...

Have they started shipping them yet?

I had to quickly read this thread to get familiar with the light so I may have missed important stuff about the release date, shipping schedule, etc…

@JasonWW, I’m personally getting 179uA on standby, and 15,96uA with switch LED off.

Your reading is insanely low. Probably the lowest of all e-switch lights.

I don’t know, maybe my DMM is not good at measuring super low amperage?

I’ve got 2 of the Boruit D10 headlamps which have e-switch drivers. One measured 0.3 microamps and the other 0.6 microamps.
My GT mini measure 20 microamps with the led off.
My Sofirn Q8 measured 22 microamps with the led off.
My S43S measured 24 microamps with led off.
So I would expect the Micro to be in that same 20-30 microamps range.

I’ve got 2 VC97+ DMM (cheap), mine has some nice Probe Master test leads (cost more than double the meter). The other has the cheap stock leads. Both meters measure the same 0.3 microamps. IDK ¯\

I’ll try and borrow a 3rd meter to see what it says.

I do want to point out something kind of unusual in the way that my Micro behaves. If I use the shortcut to turn off the switch light and then disconnect power then reconnect power, the switch light will stay off and the light does not give the usual two blinks.

If the switch light is on and I cut battery power then reconnect power I get the normal two blinks.

Usually removing battery power resets the light. I can only guess that there is a capacitor that is supplying power to the driver in it’s sleep state so that it doesn’t even notice the battery was disconnected. None of my other Narsil base lights do this. Just kind of odd and I thought I would share.

Jason, you’re a comparatively short drive from IMRbatteries, they have whatever you need. Giving a review on a prototype light with a lesser cell misleads everyone, can actually cost sales because your numbers are low. Just saying…

I say “comparatively short” because a drive across Houston TX can be he equivalent of driving out of state for a lot of people. lol Even so, ordering from them should net results next day or possibly 2 days since you’re in the same city.

The last time I bought from them the package went from Houston to a hub in Dallas then back to Houston. Took like 5 days. Lol

They also don’t do walk-ins. Only appointments for large bulk orders. :cry: They are located in a commercial office park with no retail space.

Here is Matt’s video review on the Micro. He uses a WindyFire battery and got a bit higher amp draw than me as well as about 980 lumen. With an 18650 cell it draws 5.5A, same as the Mini. So it’s definitely battery limited.

I’ll give IMR a call Fri and maybe I can slip in and buy a battery from them. Who knows.

a german friend got 4.88A using a enerzig cell
i nearly got 5A using the shockli

Interesting. Didn’t know they don’t have a store front. I know several folks in the Houston area and though I’ve tried to get them to check it out nobody has. Thanks for that lil tidbit… :wink:

Maybe Lumintop could make an optional 2 cell tube running 14500’s and then use one of those parallel battery converters like I think it was Old Lumens had made one.
If there is enough side play to run some thin copper strips maybe with a wrap? Or something made on a 3D printer.
Probably a dumb idea as it isn’t micro after that.
Just thinking out loud.

Not stupid, but quite expensive.

Muto, why not go to a boost driver with two 14500’s running an XHP-35 HI?

Waiting for someone to cram of the 3V XHP 50s in here…

They do make 14250 (1/2AA.) Wonder if that’s work?

Boost driver Louie, single cell. :wink:

The 14250’s capacity is horribly low, running a pair of em is pricey on the output vs runtime. I know all too well, have done it a lot. I’ve run MT-G2’s in chopped AA MiniMag’s as well as a lot of other variants. lol Until recently I had an XHP-50.2 in a copper X5, changed it all out in favor of a White Flat. :wink:

Edit: Yes, you could use a 2xAA light and 4 of the 14250’s with a LED4Power driver set up for the 12V emitter. That would work too, but run time would still be pretty lousy.