New WildTrail (former LuckSun) BLF-D80v2 Sale is open.

Keep the 18650.
Use the new XHP50.2
3 volt LED, with appropriate driver and springs.
Watch them sell like hotcakes.

The size / shape of the host are what defines the BLF-D80 for me. I'd keep that.

Upgraded internals? New driver/emitter/software?

Heck, yeah!

I guess you mean XHP 50 .2 3V ?

About a new D80:
*keep the design, at least the shape
*keep the 18650, the D80 has a great compact feel
*a XP-L Hi is boring but probably right. The 3V XHP50.2 plus FET driver makes it a hotrod not suitable for the general public
*FET+1 with bistro is nice, but with an improved board lay-out to prevent voltage spikes, so that modding the light with low voltage leds does not give trouble.
*improve the reflector, the old D80 has an imperfect one.

It will have a tough competition with all the X6 and C8 versions around, so the last tip: while keeping the fat head and its shape and fins, and keeping the possibility to use protected batteries, if possible make it even more compact (shorter) than the original D80.

The BLF D80 was before my time but your post about them last year got me interested in the LuckySun brand. They really need to update the their driver and emitter offerings, but selling bare hosts would be even better.

My wishlist for a new D80 as a ready-to-use light is:

  1. A triple channel FET+n+1 driver with OTSM running Bistro, or at least a FET+1 running Bistro
  2. BlueSwordM springs (nickel-plated is fine)
  3. anti-reflective coated lens
  4. choice of emitters - XP-L HI (4000K 5A) and something cheaper with higher CRI

I like the idea of a D80 with a 21700 tube, but I’d be quite happy with just an upgraded version of the existing host.

djozz has just convinced me that I don’t want a 21700 D80. :slight_smile:

I love this light!

I think it looks awesome probably the best gray colour anodizing going around and the SS bezel looks awesome. The AR lens is good quality.

You could beef the light up a bit make the fins a tad different like a bit thicker and add a bit more separation. Give it a thicker shelf but that would require heaps of work but seeing as the driver cavity is fairly big it might not be to hard. I think it would look awesome just by up sizing the head make the reflector a tad bigger so it looks a bit more bulky but not to large.

If it stayed as is no problem either.

My only issues is the stock driver is okay but nothing special even if they want to use a linear driver make it a few more amps. I had the battery tube problem with the short tubes on one of mine. Plus the stock spring are horrible this is a Luckysun issue i have other lights that have massive crappy springs. Also maybe get rid of the square knurling nothing wrong with it but its kind of dated and the grip is average.

This

I know that the 3V XHP50.2 would be nice, but it’s way too powerful for such a host.

Something like an XP-L HI/Luxeon V would be great.

And yes, dual nickel-plated BeCu springs would be awesome. Would make the light perform light a superb hotrod.

SST40 in NW 5000k FET+1 BeCu springs

How about more visually appealing to start with…miniature potato masher is so 20th Century… :confounded:

(pic borrowed from DBCustoms)

No, no! The shape is what sets the D80 apart, makes it attractive to some of us. It’s main problem for me is that it gets HOT very fast when hot rodded. I have one with an XHP50, first series, that runs two 18650 in series.

Yes, djozz, I meant XHP50 3 volt. I editted my post, thanks. I think it would be a great hotrod single emitter, in a world where most of them are becoming quads or triples.

Don, does it get hot faster than a quad or triple?

I thought maybe it was the….it is so Fugly it’s Cute syndrome…. my bad. :smiley:

I don’t have any quads at all. I do have an X6 triple with a FET driver running a 30Q cell. The modded D80 does get hotter and gets hotter faster than that X6. The couple of other triples I have are not true hot rods so it is not fair to compare them. (I like my triples mostly for their beam patterns, not the total possible lumen output.)

The shape is best appreciated when you have one in your hand, it just feels very good, much better than a X6.

Regarding a design change.
I was thinking about some performance changes (like a thicker ledshelf). And maybe (when addressing the tube length) also go for a more uniform design. Now you have many different design elements on the tube. And it is not repeating itself. So no design element from the tube is found on the head or the tailcap. . . . Look at the C8+ or the S2+ for example. You will find that they use simmilar elements on head, tube and tailcap.
But i will send LuckySun what the majority wants!

About the 3V XHP50. I think its a perfect LED for hotrodding a light. But not usable with a FET driver in a comercial light (liability. . . ).
But if they use a propper driver with all the other improvements it is a easy and fast mod to a 3V XHP-50 if someone wants to build a hotrod.
To be able to sell the lights to the mass they will most likely go with a XPL-Hi. But i hope they will also offer some high CRI options like the SST-20. . . . on copper DTP boards.

Do you have a link so i can give them something they can look into?
A upgraded reflector would be nice. But is it possible to increase the throw without changing the size? Or do you mean that they should try to get better (more clean, less flaws. . . ) ones?
Propper springs are a must. And i will link the Blue Springs. So they can see how a propper spring looks like. :sunglasses:

Thanks Don. I was wondering whether the heat would be similar to an Emisar or upcoming FW3A, and I assume it would, but it would be a single emitter hotrod this time.

TheOnlyDocc,I get what you’re saying about emitter choice. It will probably end up very similar to what we have already seen, on this and many other lights. I guess that will appeal to more people, although it would be just duplication for many as well.

My experience is that it is impossible to explain to a chinese manufacturer the improved board layout as a description of the problem and then an explanation of the fix. You will have to hand them litterally a correct board lay-out. And I can not draw circuit boards. The description of the problem with the Attiny25 based FET+7135 driver ( drop out of turbo when using low voltage leds) and the required fix is here: What did you mod today? - #2183 by djozz