4aa thrower

you might want to look into the convoy x3 its a little bit dated, but was 4xaa/26650 with some spacer o rings

Maybe you need a Nitecore EA81 with an emitter swap.

Theory is theory but proof is proof, immediately after replying i did try and shove 3 AAs into my Cometa’s 26650 tube… no chance! I agree, we definitely need a couple of 3xAA lights that can also take a 26650, let me know what Sofirn say :smiley:

I think a 26650 light that could fit 3xAA would be a great idea! The same flexibility that a 14500/AA light affords, but with much more usable capacity when running on Li-ion.
(Also, I can confirm that a Sofirn SP33 only has an inner diameter of about 26.5mm, so that one’s off the table too. At minimum, 3xAA squashed together is about a 30mm diameter, so I think that adapter’s dimensions are a little misleading.)

Can’t do emitter swap. Gonna have to wait for some manufacturer to make what I want.

I haven’t been able to find one anywhere lately…

Wellp, for 4×AA you got the TN4A, TK4A, and SP…something, forgot. Thrunite/Thorfire/Sofirn, respectively, and all essentially the same light.

Dunno why you’d want to use those hateful little AAs, as they’ll take a dump in the light and ruin it, especially with multiple cells in series (2 worse’n 1; 4 worse’n 2).

And output will fall off from the first second they’re powered up.

NiMH is marginally better, won’t leak, but I still wouldn’t want to use 4 in series, as the first “weak link” that drops below 1.2V will almost instantly be reverse-charged and ruined.

So… you pays yer money and you takes yer chances.

I’ve got two Sunwayman D40A CW/NW lights and I like them hoth.

Chris

A pouch lipo is not the same as a cylindrical li-ion cell.

There is no problem using cylindrical lithium cells in high temperatures.
You will be dead before there is any risk of a lithium cell exploding.

NiMH is a lot better than alkaleaks, especially for power output. They’re not as good as lithium-ion, but a 1000+ lumen 4xAA light will easily run on NiMH.

Most good 4xAA lights have low-voltage cut-off, so shouldn’t reverse-charge your cells even if you have a weak one. Besides, I’ve reverse-charged Eneloops, and they’re still perfectly fine with no loss of capacity. Probably lost a few cycles, though, so it’s definitely not good for them.

One thing that 4xAA lights have going for them, is that you can find batteries absolutely everywhere. The alkaleaks certainly aren’t good, but it’s better than nothing if you have no other choice.

Yes you would be dead in a car here in summer under sun with windows rolled up. But I leave my lights in car in summer. my niece killed her dog leaving it in car a couple hours.

How did you reverse charge your eneloops? And how did you know?

Yeh, easily on my TK4As.

They’re starting off in the hole at 4.8V, and by the time one is spent, that’s a sudden drop to 3.6V. Hopefully that’s be low enough under load that a light that thinks its got alkaleaks would start warning you (as in blinking the light itself or cutting off, not just turning the indicator from yellow to red or something), but you’d have to know the spex of the light itself.

Marginally, but yeah. Still burning off the Rat Shacks and Rayovacs I unearthed…

Well that’s a horrible idea to do to any type of battery, not just lithium.

So you would advise against keeping emergency flashlight in car in hot climates?

Go get some Energizer Ultimate Lithium AAs and use those in hot locations, as they handle temperatures better than most other offerings.

Chris

Urg.

Those people need to be locked inside hot cars with closed windows on sweltering sunny days for the same length of time as the dogs/kids they killed.

Yeah, go’head everybody, send the hatemail…

This. :arrow_upper_right:

I’d still keep the cells outside the light, in a baggie or similar, juuuust in case.

The most recent time was…

I have a temperature console that takes 4 AA’s. I was using four Eneloops in them, and one must have been a bit weak or maybe I didn’t fully charge it. When I noticed the console wasn’t working (it was probably dead for a few days), I took out the cells and measured their voltage with my DMM.

Most of the cells were down around 0.8v. However, one of the cells measured about –0.7v. It had been reverse charged.

I couldn’t recharge it in any smart charger, since the charger would reject it as being put in the wrong way. So I used a dumb charger, which just forces current into a cell no matter which way around you place it. After a few minutes of that, its polarity was restored, and I then could charge it using a regular charger. It charged up fine, and discharge capacity testing indicates it didn’t lose any capacity.

It probably lost some cycles, though. Reverse charging isn’t good.

They could’ve all been reasonably well-matched, in that the other 3 were certainly dead, but not reverse-charged/-ing.

Worst case is if the other 3 were still happily pushing out 1.2V at however many amps, and force-feeding the runt of the litter the wrong-way. That’s when you fry ’em but good.

Did that with NiCd cells one time, and one vented. Slow hiss, nothing dramatic, but it still stunk.