I'd consider this mod too, but I've got a lot ahead of this one. Been following the posts on this clone, but haven't posted.
-Garry
a dozen other projects will get pushed aside (literally...on my bench lol) when this light arrives. but, this spending has to stop, if I want to keep eating human food anyway.
This is awesome. I still have yet to build a light utilizing a secondary switch. All I need to do is wire up the secondary switch to the 4th star and ground, so that it will pull low when pressed, correct?
I don't plan on doing the TK35 clone, probably just a Maglite. Would you be willing to post up your code? (I just didn't want to bother figuring out the code to access the pin for low. I know it's not hard, I was just lazy).
man we have some smart boys here..nice job!
I am unsure I will wire it correctly, if you want I can send you the full battery host, let me know if you can do it, and give a price for it if possible.
I am not very good soldering little things, doing it on thick wires, led stars I can do it, but smaller than that me and my terrible solder are pretty bad.
JonnyC: Yes, the button pulls low, the ATtiny's internal pull-up resistor holds it high if not pressed.
Checking the keypress is simple:
if ((PINB&(1<<3))==0) {do something}
The pull-up must be activated by
PORTB |= (1<<3);
while still being set to input.
yavi: sending a PM.
Dr Jones, this is great! :)
What is the current draw when flashlight is inactive?
Can it be used without main switch?
Would you be so kind to publish the code?
This is a two-button light, so there's no other "inactive" mode other than being switched completely off. My TheKlone35 firmware does not support lights without power button.
I don't have any light with only a momentary button yet, except the SR KING, but it performs so well I don't want to mess with it, even though I'd like a better UI.
ahhhh, then we'll be praying it breaks on you so you can properly sort that UI for us 
Are there any other inexpensive modable two-button lights out there? I really want to build one, but I'm not too excited about the TK35 battery format.
Than, I should continue to search some more or wait for Tido to see if he is willing to share a code so I can mod the H3. Do you feel like sharing Dr Jones? :)
Please consider having a look at the UF-T50. It's momentary-only, and could benefit greatly from an improved UI.
Someone gift me a T50 and I'll do it, hehehe ;)
EDIT: Well, while that wasn't meant seriously, it gave me an idea... see below.
hey dr j
have u seen the lite @ kd that looks a lot like this one (sorry forgot the link)
Well... I spent a good part of this weekend to program a firmware (for the NANJG105C driver) suitable for electronic-switch-only lights. I used my TheKlone35 for testing since I don't actually have a suitable light. If I sell a couple, I might get enough money for a UF-T50 :)
I call it lumodrv, and the UI is relatively complex... :
- When off: Tap to get to the previously used mode
(optionally: no-memory, always start at 1st mode) - Tap again within 1s (can be configured) to change to the next mode
- When on for >1s (mode is locked), next tap switches off.
- When off: Press for >0.5s to start ramping up from lowest level; release: use that level
- When on: Press for >0.5s to start ramping from current level; release: use that level
- Press again for >0.5s: Ramp in the other direction. This allows to fine-adjust the brightness to your wishes.
- The ramp has 33 visually linear steps (except for the lowest levels).
- There's a short blink at each end of the ramp.
- If you continue to ramp up for 1s while already at max, you reach the extended mode group
- long press in an extended mode gets back to main mode
- main mode group and extended mode group can contain up to 8 modes each
- multi-click modes: A double-click for example leads to med, regardless of the current mode (except momentary) or if it's off. A triple-click leads to high, a quad-click leads to strobe, and a 5*click to momentary mode. (Different multi-click settings are possible)
- available are 33 levels of brightness, strobe, beacon
- beacon has a battery indicator at it's start (a number of blinks)
- switches down when battery is low
- if you continue to ramp down for 1s while already at min, you reach momentary mode, i.e. it's on whenever you press the button ('tactical'). Return to normal operation by locking out (disconnect power) or by 8 very fast clicks.
- programmable:
1) Use a mode for >1s, click to switch off. This mode will be reprogrammed.
2) Press and hold the button for 12s; the ramp will start again.
3) Do whatever necessary to get the desired brightness level or extended mode (but do not switch the light off until finished).
4) Use the wanted new level/mode for >1s, click to witch off.
--> The mode from step 1 will be reprogrammed with the mode from step 4.
Note that if, say, a triple click points to mode 2, and you reprogram mode 2, the triple-click will change it's function, too.
Note that a lock-out or a battery change will reset the light to it's default modes (!). - 170µA drain when off, mostly due to the battery sensing voltage divider on the board (the MCU only takes 6µA then). This will drain a 2200mAh cell within 1.5 years.
- 9kHz PWM frequency
I think it uses the potential of an electronic switch quite well, but as always, it's a matter of taste.
Default settings (you can specify a different setting when you contact me for a driver):
- Modes: mode1:25% - mode2:100% --- extended1:strobe - extended2:batt/beacon
- double-click: mode1 (25%)
- triple-click: mode2 (100%)
- 4*click: extended1 (strobe)
- 5*click: momentary
I found 2 main modes are enough since ramping is so easily accessible.
There are a couple of ways to start the light:
- short click (tap): use previous mode
- long press: start ramping up (which makes having an explicit low mode relatively unnecessary)
- double-click, triple-click, quadruple-click, 5*click (see above)
EDIT: combined the several edits into the main description.
Thanks for all your efforts programming the drivers Drjones :)
I do not have any 3,5,7 XM-L but would it be possible to program this way one of those? Or sandwiching them to be able to get something about 9A?
If it is possible, I might think of getting one in that light format.
That is great. Would you sell hex or just whole driver? What would be the price? If it is not allowed on the forum, please PM me the price.
if a pair of bats comes with, i thing i'm buying
question tho, what do u thing of the location of the driver in this one compared 2 the other one.
Someone needs to take apart their T50 and take some pictures for us (*cough* ChicagoX *cough*) :)