Oh, thats no good mcpcb-design! I would change it, that you have + at the inside and not at the outside of the mcpcb. That would be safer. Remember the first Astrolux S41 flashlights, they had a similar design and some problems with shortcuits.
Oh, no worries, that is not the only thing that is designed badly on this light :party: The beam would improve drastically if the leds were placed closer together, I do not see one reason why that would not have been possible. It would even allow for a slimmer head. And I frosted the inside of the lens with fine sand paper now, that removed a ton of beam artifacts. I’m now at 650 lumen OTF at 2.94 A current, so total efficiency of close to 60 lm/W which is pretty ok for a 95CRI on top of BBL flooder.
Thanks Mike
It gave some work to make it fit well (specially in height), but ended up working!
BTW, I found out that working with copper is harder than working with brass.
Drilling and filing brass in another similar mod gave me less work
Yeah, “extremely” dense form then I wouldn’t like to heat that kind of butter, the teeth would go “nuts”
Working on with a hacksaw, some thin drills and a file was a fine challenge!
Wish I had better tools and I would certainly do some more stuff with thicker rods! (like a pill for my Amutorch VG10, to make it a quad :smiling_imp: )
Add in that slim little percentage of Tellurium to the Copper and once it again it machines like brass. Well worth it if you ask me…
On another note, but some machining still involved… I managed to trade my son a newer light for his Jacob A60 then coaxed 227.5Kcd from the old pencil beam thrower.
Good job on the A60 Dale. I still take its stock 55 kcd (with XR-E led) as my reference point for throwers that I make, to feel good about how much flashlights have improved
What led does it have now?
I machined the emitter shelf to accept a 20mm Noctigon with a White Flat. Using an FET+1 A6 style (that I built) and limiting power through cell choice, currently running a Panasonic PF that gives 6.01A at 4.19V freshly charged. Yeah yeah, I know, I have an LED4Power LD-A4 on the way that I will set to a little lower current to optimize the emitter so improper cell choice won’t kill it should I forget (and I will!).
When the LD-A4 arrives I plan to make a copper “retaining ring” that will hold the smaller 17mm driver, just replace the very thick aluminum retaining ring with one made from copper that has a shelf for the driver then solder the driver in after installing. (or if I take a notion I’ll make a retaining ring to fit within the retaining ring to hold the driver. Depends on the variables…
I modified the CRX Rotary with a 3K carbon fibre jacket and swapped the XP-L HD 3D emitter for an XP-L HI 3A 5000K as I found the XP-L HD 3D tint to be a little too green on the lower modes so now it's a much nicer creamy white to my eyes.
Copper, Titanium & Carbon Fibre construction Cree XP-L HI v2 3A 5000K emitter GITD O-ring & LED surround 20mm Copper DTP MCPCB 19mm x 8mm solid copper heatsink 20mm x 12mm SMO Reflector 22mm x 2mm dual coated ARC glass Lighted Rotary six mode tail switch & Momentary button Dual colour Tritium indicators Lockout-able Diffuser/ protective carry case Magnetic cell contacts 18350 cell compatible Removable USB charging unit
Modding the UF-C1 (P60) and the Revtronic PT20, to both I added the light cap. The PT20 has already been modified by replacing the reflector with a 120° TIR; I use it only in the house and so is very handy
My friend sent me a Lumintop Tool AA/14500 Ver. 2.0 that arrived yesterday. It had an XP-L HD in it but that didn’t last long, I pulled the pill out, filed off the raised outer edges and filed down a 16mm Noctigon to fit squarely on top of the aluminum pill, then placed a White Flat on the Noctigon. Left the driver alone so it can run AA or 14500 either one. The White Flat makes 538 lumens on a Red Efest 14500 not fully charged and the hot spot is more concentrated with less spill. Works for me!