If they want to use a deeper reflector for some of the small die emitters on the market now they could just design a taller bezel and extend the new reflector into the bezel.
This way a new casting of the head would not need to be made.
Speaking of bezels, how about optional Foy bezels? Stainless of course.
Just a thought.
Also if they are rebooting the concept, how about some new colors?
That Olive drab that Klarus has might be nice and maybe some Reds, Blues.
Laterrrr
Keith
I could not sleep so i wrote with my LS contact. Like it was said in other projects language is a huge barrier. And LS is not a huge company. So i do not think it would work out well to go with a Osram throw led + getting a reflector made (with prototypes a lot of testing . . . . . .).
If we had a contact there that could explain everything in their language i would go for it.
The D80 is having good throw and it would fit nice. But as it is i see way to much potential for a crash and burn.
After this short time i would say most people like the light and would be happy if they could get a fixed up version (tailstand, tube length, springs,driver,reflector quality increased and led hole size reduced. . . .) with new internals, UI. . .
To me, this type of question is a slippery slope. How much of the original can you change before it becomes something entirely new? (like an old old rock band that has none of the original members but still carries the same name 
)
I’d say refine details only if this is a D80.2 think-tank
Things like:
Improved reflector geometry/finish
Better springs
Double o-rings
Thermal management
New anodizing
Latest firmware/driver
LED options (for the non-modders)
blf d 80 is one of the very best special editions ever….
it looks great and has a great beam
improve it to what it should have been the first time
new driver, new led, dtp and good springs
at the same time, start working on a 21700 model with new xhp led
Prefer 21700 too for me.
I think i found a way to improve heat dissipation (without changing the look). But i only have my tablet with me in hospital. So i search for someone that can help me to make a pic or 3d model to show BLF (and LuckySun if most people think its a good idea) what i have in mind.
If you want to help please PM me.
I hope it is clear to see on the pictures what i have in mind.
By adding material on the inside (creating another 2mm step a few mm below the first one) we could cut the lower finns deeper. So more surface area is in contact with the air (better heat dissipation). And if we make the driver cavity 2mm less deep we could add this 2mm to the led shelf (it is very thin at the moment).
Could someone else check his D80. I want to know how good the front lens sits. On my light the o- ring below is not compressed. Even the bezel is screwed in full.
This leads to bad sealing and no preasure on the mcpcb. This could be addressed by shorten the head on the front by ~0,5-1mm. This would also help to press down the mcpcb with the reflector a bit.
I hope some of the BLF driver gurus can help us. At the moment there is no updated driver layout available that can run Bistro HD OTSM without problems. And i really would prefer not to count on the driver manufacturer to make the layout changes.
Do you have the ability to test the effect of various fin designs? I’m not an expert in the field but my engineering background makes me suspect that if you decrease the spacing or deepen the fins, it may not have the airflow and thus, the heat dissipitation you want.
Logically speaking, what deeper fins between the body and head can probably do is lessen the heat transfer from the head. Decreasing the mass snc increasing the fin area there “should” help out by keeping the body cooler…and holding it longer.
Thermal cameras and empirical testing is our friend. 
By adding mass on the inside before cutting the finns deeper from the outside the total mass stays ~the same.
Only the surface area on the outside increases. But i agree with you. If i would only cut the finns deeper without adding mass on the inside i would probably reduce the heat handling capabilitis.
And adding 2mm to the led shelf (from ~1mm to 3mm) should help increasing the heat transfer inside the head.
So i got me some paper from the Nurse to draw a D80 head (my cousin scanned it for me at home and added a few things). The red space is the change i have in mind.
What do you think. Would it help with heat distribution?
LED shelf of like 5mm will help, as well as the other red you have marked there
Original shelf thickness is ~1mm and the driver cavity is 8,5mm deep. I was thinking to take 2mm from the driver cavity to add them to the shelf.
Not 5mm but 3mm. I want enough space (6,5mm) for people modding the light with a boost driver.
I am not sure how much space would be required for a modern boost driver (do not have any at home). If less space is required we could add more to the shelf.
If you could add a couple mm to overall length of the head, you could make the shelf thicker that way, and also add another fin at the bottom. My preference would be to also add another couple mm to the length of the head for making the reflector a bit longer. So, maybe a total of 4-5mm added length on the head. Some people won’t like that though.
@TheOnlyDocc, do you want contact info for my spring company?
So we can get some good springs in their lights
BlueSwordM
Is the company from China? If yes please send me the address. I will send LS the info + a link to the spring sale here on BLF. But we will have to see what they want to buy. They will also have their sources for parts. So maybe some more technical information are better. This way they can check in with their suppliers and check if they can get somthing similar cheaper.
DavidEF
So far most of the people do not want a change on the outside. But you are right if we would change some things (more finns, bigger/longer head) the light could probably handle more heat and would throw further. Could be a good starting point for another light in the future.
@TheOnlyDocc, yes, it’s a Chinese company. I’ve asked for their contact information yesterday, so should be receiving it today.
I will also include technical information if necessary.
A shelf thickness of 3mm is enough, the D80 must not be made longer than it is (the size is a main strongpoint), and the triangular extra aluminium under the fins will help too but half of that (a narrower triangle) will help just as well and keeps the head more lightweight. For example the Sofirn C8F (18650 model) has an exellent heat path but the head is unneccessary heavy.
One of the main reasons I like the D80 so much is the heat fins for great heat shedding. If we can make use of the red triangles and deepen the fins, I will be sure to buy a few. Otherwise, not sure if there is enough incentives for me to buy more since I already have two D80.