Low Voltage protection also works to identify sh!tty batteries. If I put Ultrafire 3000mAh batteries in my Balder, it starts blinking immediately and won't operate on high. Any good cell will operate the light just fine.
If you are using a good charger, LMR will charge like any other Li-ion cell, should stop at cell capacity around 4.17-4.20 (remember they are just another chemistry of Li-ion and have the same voltage operating range). I have two AW IMR 14500 cells and they perform on the charger like any other, come off at 4.18. If you buy the Xtar charger, you should be fine, but still follow the same prudent charging protocol and don't leave them alone, take off when the light turns green.
Sorry, pounder, we went off topic (as usual at BLF ). If you re-read the OP, I ordered the ST60 (18650), it was out of stock and CNQG is sending me a JM07 (26650). The ST60 can run on 1 or 2 18650's only.
Read the instructions and attach it to your multimeter as suggested.
Short the cell across it and read off the current. If it can't do 10A on a dead short (Should be nearer 45) it is crap. You might be able to read a value before the protection circuit (if any) cuts in.
Whatever you do, don't run this test for any longer than it takes to read the meter.
Really, really don't do this for more than a second.
I disclaim all responsibility for melted shunts/meters/hands/houses.
N.Shock provided a good link below that indicates at least one brand of "INR" branded cells are LiNiCoMn02 chemistry, like the Sony 26650VT cells. They're capable of VERY high discharge rate and are far safer than standard LiCo cells, but can still be volatile if there were a short or a puncture.
Personally, I completely avoid any cell not being explicitly represented as one of the safe chemistry formulas.
That's horrible advice. Even if someone was willing to ruin a SAFE battery with a dead short, which would, permanently increase the cell's internal resistance, what if it was not a safe chem or protected cell? LiCo cells DO vent flames and DO explode, and either/both can happen very quickly. Big cells like 26650's pack A LOT of power - pipe bomb power.
That shunt is meant for measuring voltage drop across it under load as a means to measure the current going across it, not to dead-short a battery, power supply, etc.
To answer question #2 on the first post the only ones are from manafont, they are only 4000 mAh + not the claimed 5000 mAh, but they should be close to the king kongs with mAh.
I have brought one of these just to test out and see if they can be used in series with TR-J12 with out modification unlike the king kongs.
One thing i have not tested the trustfire 5000 mAh yet myself but reports on the net they are between 4200 and 4500 mAh like the king kongs, but i belive no one has been able to test both batteries with a discharge higher then 1 amp discharge due to basic hobby chargers and for the king kongs they have gone off data sheets.
Once my sample gets here most likely in 2 weeks i will discharge the trustfire 26650 and king kongs at 3 amps and then run a 7 amp discharge test with data logging and post up the graphs if hjk does not beat me to it, i think the trustfire protected 26650 is the safest option as its the only one protected and at 3 to 3.5 amp discharge the king kongs and protected trustfire 26650's should be close.
Im intrested to see if the protection pcb can give atlest 3.5 amps as thats all it needs to give and that is about the most your well driven xml will draw on one cell, since the 2400 / 3000 mAh 18650 trustfire flames can give 3 amps no problem i think they should be fine and early reports seams good.
Not sure about "all", but from those 2 you posted (4Sevens 26650 and Powerizer 26650), 2nd one is capable of higher currents and has lower internal resistance.
Which one of these is the best in terms of internal resistance and current delivery capabilities? That last one claims its capable of an 18A (!!!) draw... is that for real or a typo? They measured 3794 mah capacity at 18A rate (!!) in the test below.
And heres the discharge curve:
I am not worried about capacity since they are all around ~3500 AH, and that will vary greatly with current draw anyways, and I don't need cell protection. For this light I am using an XML in direct drive, and it draws 4~5A from a single cell.
Are there any others I should consider? I would like to avoid Ebay and the Asian exporters, simply because domestic sellers like Lighthound and Batteryspace are competitively priced, honest and ship fast. Is this a wise decision?... or should I expand my search?
I am leaning towards that one with the 18A capability... unless someone can convince me otherwise.