Emisar D18 introduction

We have a ROT66 killer over here. Without lightened switch, aux led, charging ports and other gimmicks.

3*18650 format is comfortable even for holding the light for long.

I hope you make a 21700 D4 or D4S once.

CCT mixing will result in a better tint, but figuring out how to do it in this light gives me a headache :stuck_out_tongue:

Does it have D4 UI V2, V3 or Anduril?

That’s a rather odd place for a lanyard hole since the hand will be placed over it. And it looks sharp.

@Hank, the 3000K and 4000K SST-20’s you have in stock are binned above the BBL thus the tint of them isn’t super appealing. The 3500K version BlueSwordM sells is binned below the BBL (GA3 tint bin). Can you make a D18 with them after sending these leds to you? Or maybe you are willing so source them. Or selling a D18 without leds and with an adequate lower price.

For that size, there is no place for a battery carryer. Thant means 3P battery with contact-ring on the driver.
So you will need button-top Samsung batteries or flat-top batteries from other manufacturers.
From my experiemence Samsung has deepened flat tops, that means shrink tube is higher than the flat top. And that will not make contact to a driver contact ring.
The most other manufacturers has rised flat top, where the flat top is higher than shrink tube. And such batteries will make contact. E.g. Sony, LG, Sanyo, … will fit.
High current batteries only. I think 20A per battery is realistic. That means around 3A per Emitter.

The flashlight will drain 180-200W, as I have estimated.

:+1:
and please with USB-C charging port

That’s not going to happen and it’s a shame IMO…
My Olight X7R sees much more use that my X7 because of that.
Taking out multiple cells to charge them then put them back in the light is really a PITA compared to simply plug in a cable.
I mean, okay swapping batteries on a single battery flashlight like the D4 is natural because it eats them so fast… but on a multiple cells like the D18 it would be more practical.
Anyway, this is an unpopular flashaolic opinion and I’m going to put it in the appropriate thread.

Wow, Hank. That looks really good!

Stop making me feel these feels. That looks like a PiTA to pull off, but damn would it be worth it……

Wondering how quickly the thermal stepdown will kick in. :slight_smile:

It seems to me when the temperature of the environment is 25°C and the temperature control of 55°C the D18 will be thermostable at 1500Lm. For greater brightness without overheating in such the body D18, emitters are needed XHP.
Turbo mode (14000Lm) will be very short, about 80 seconds.

I absolutely must must must have one!!!

We don’t know the price. Will you buy it for 400 USD? :wink:

I predict 189$

It uses a FET+13*7135+1*7135 driver

Lower than $100.

That’s fantastic! This is a definite buy.

I’m surprised to see that nobody asks about what optics the D18 use.
Ok, I can not wait to tell you, that in order to maintain a smaller head, and as pocket-able as possible,
we use 18 pcs single optics, and squeeze every tiny room in the head. Not a easy work for the assembly, the production speed is slow.

raucous applause erupts from the internet

:+1:

I have some questions :slight_smile:

  1. Will there be XP-l HI 3A version and if it will be more expensive?
  2. Is it possible to order a black frame in the front in the black version?
  3. Will the batteries be replaced by unscrewing the tail cap, or do you have to unscrew the whole tube?

@Hank, how much work does that require?

That looks insane.

Very nice work Hank!

Curious to see a side by side with the Meteor m43.

  1. 18 pcs XP-L HI 3A LED will be very expensive.
  2. It is black mask on all the D18.
  3. You will need to unscrew the whole tube to change the batteries, just like the Meteor M43.