For that size, there is no place for a battery carryer. Thant means 3P battery with contact-ring on the driver.
So you will need button-top Samsung batteries or flat-top batteries from other manufacturers.
From my experiemence Samsung has deepened flat tops, that means shrink tube is higher than the flat top. And that will not make contact to a driver contact ring.
The most other manufacturers has rised flat top, where the flat top is higher than shrink tube. And such batteries will make contact. E.g. Sony, LG, Sanyo, … will fit.
High current batteries only. I think 20A per battery is realistic. That means around 3A per Emitter.
The flashlight will drain 180-200W, as I have estimated.
That’s not going to happen and it’s a shame IMO…
My Olight X7R sees much more use that my X7 because of that.
Taking out multiple cells to charge them then put them back in the light is really a PITA compared to simply plug in a cable.
I mean, okay swapping batteries on a single battery flashlight like the D4 is natural because it eats them so fast… but on a multiple cells like the D18 it would be more practical.
Anyway, this is an unpopular flashaolic opinion and I’m going to put it in the appropriate thread.
It seems to me when the temperature of the environment is 25°C and the temperature control of 55°C the D18 will be thermostable at 1500Lm. For greater brightness without overheating in such the body D18, emitters are needed XHP.
Turbo mode (14000Lm) will be very short, about 80 seconds.
I’m surprised to see that nobody asks about what optics the D18 use.
Ok, I can not wait to tell you, that in order to maintain a smaller head, and as pocket-able as possible,
we use 18 pcs single optics, and squeeze every tiny room in the head. Not a easy work for the assembly, the production speed is slow.
With a “normal” driver and the best firmware around. Glad to see you got your hands in this one TK, I remember you aching when you couldnt do anything with the Meteor FW.
PS: This has a bit of a DBCustom vibe coming from it haha.