CRX, is that a noctigon on the triple? Or did you put something red thing below the lens! Nice effect 
It is a Noctigon MCPCB.
I usually colour the bottom of the three support posts with black but did red this time as I thought it went better.
I modified the CRX Rotary with a 3K carbon fibre jacket and swapped the XP-L HD 3D emitter for an XP-L HI 3A 5000K as I found the XP-L HD 3D tint to be a little too green on the lower modes so now it's a much nicer creamy white to my eyes.
Copper, Titanium & Carbon Fibre construction
Cree XP-L HI v2 3A 5000K emitter
GITD O-ring & LED surround
20mm Copper DTP MCPCB
19mm x 8mm solid copper heatsink
20mm x 12mm SMO Reflector
22mm x 2mm dual coated ARC glass
Lighted Rotary six mode tail switch & Momentary button
Dual colour Tritium indicators
Lockout-able
Diffuser/ protective carry case
Magnetic cell contacts
18350 cell compatible
Removable USB charging unit
Length – 94mm
Width – 27mm
Weight – 192g (with 18350 cell)
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New Modes, Operation & Light output:
Pressing the momentary button or turning the rotary tail switch clockwise gives these approximate outputs:
Mo Sw - 1330 lm
Mode - 1 - 1200 lm
Mode - 2 - 392 lm
Mode - 3 - 174 lm
Mode - 4 - 45 lm
Mode - 5 - 3 lm
Mode - 6 - FF
Max cd - 15000
Max Throw - 245m
Modding the UF-C1 (P60) and the Revtronic PT20, to both I added the light cap. The PT20 has already been modified by replacing the reflector with a 120° TIR; I use it only in the house and so is very handy
And some carbon fibre on the CRX CSLNM1.TG Copper & Titanium Zoomie :)
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Carbon fibre spare cell carriers?
Carbon fiber spare cell carriers?
Yes please, I’ll take 3! 
My friend sent me a Lumintop Tool AA/14500 Ver. 2.0 that arrived yesterday. It had an XP-L HD in it but that didn’t last long, I pulled the pill out, filed off the raised outer edges and filed down a 16mm Noctigon to fit squarely on top of the aluminum pill, then placed a White Flat on the Noctigon. Left the driver alone so it can run AA or 14500 either one. The White Flat makes 538 lumens on a Red Efest 14500 not fully charged and the hot spot is more concentrated with less spill. Works for me!
You could be in luck
Convoy S11 with XHP50.2 80 CRI 4000K and 6V 4.8A boost driver. Modes: 0.1A, 0.4A, 2.3A, 5A. On max mode it takes almost 10A from the battery, however that is too much for the switch and the driver warns about low voltage.
What cell are you running in it?
Black Shockli 26650 IMR 30A 5500mAh
Interesting. That cell should be capable without running into issue. The only cell I know for sure that is better, same class, is the Golisi in gold. Changing class to a 21700 the 30T or 40T may still outperform the Golisi but it’s marginal even there. The Golisi is markedly better than the LiitoKala black…. still, perhaps a good cleaning of all contacts with De-Oxit Gold would help?
Spring bypasses will help. If it has an Omten switch, even a mini, you don’t have to worry about the switch, they can run up to around 30A before having any real issues.
I installed a large blue spring and it helped:
This is a picture of stock forward switch included in S11 host package:
I like the S11 design, but how does the heat dissipation work out ?
It still uses a pill, which makes it easy to mod, but wouldn’t a shelf help on it?
Not the most desireable of switches but as long as it hasn’t melted or softened such that it won’t click then it’s still doing it’s job.
Mod doubt:
I have a brass ring that I will use as a spacer (17mm-23mm) for a 17mm L4P driver.
My doubt is how should I attach the driver to the ring? Solder? Epoxy? Any kind of wires?
The ring is supposed to be on the spring side (of course) and I will sand/file/bore it till the inner diameter matches the driver (to avoid contact with the wires or spring.
But I’m having these doubts about how to attach one thing to the other ! Any help is appreciated! Thanks in advance
Whatever you do, attach it so that the battery pushes the driver into the ring tighter (ie, sitting on a shelf), and not that it could push the driver out of the ring.
If you have a set of step-bits that does 17mm, use that to get a nice flat bottom in the ring, even if it’s almost foil-thin. Don’t drill all the way through and hope that solder will keep the driver in place. It may work for a while, but constant hammering on it might weaken the solder to the point where the driver gets pushed right through, probably taking some copper traces with it.
Yep, what he said, and always best to solder if you can.