I’m surprised to see that nobody asks about what optics the D18 use.
Ok, I can not wait to tell you, that in order to maintain a smaller head, and as pocket-able as possible,
we use 18 pcs single optics, and squeeze every tiny room in the head. Not a easy work for the assembly, the production speed is slow.!https://intl-outdoor.com/images/20190314214330.png!
Hank, will you supply different optic choices that people can buy independently to customize their beam profile?
Also out of curiosity, are these single TIR optics taller than your standard Carclo triple optics?
I love that you went the extra mile to condense the LEDs and minimize empty space.
I too am interested in what choice of optics there are. I’m not really familiar with this type of individual optic per emitter. One thing I like about the Meteor (and D4) is the availability of different optics to adjust the beam from a balance of throw and flood (e.g. the Carclo 10621 or 10622) to very floody (e.g. the Carclo 10623 or 10624). Are there similar options for the type of TIR optic that the D18 will use?
Just awesome! Somehow I’m really curious whether this beauty also has a red “Noctigon pure copper board” in the tailcap…. because that is just soooo pretty.
Apologies for the long post. Trying to answer some questions all at once…
nick779 wrote:
PS: This has a bit of a DBCustom vibe coming from it haha.
It really does. Dale makes some insanely bright lights, and when I turn this on at turbo, I get a taste of how Dale must feel. Even without optics, it’s very bright. It’s like turning on 15 to 20 60W equivalent light bulbs all at once. Normally I find even two of those bulbs to be excessive for an average room, but the D18 turns a room into something surreal like in a movie when they want to convey a holy aura or something.
komeko wrote:
And one more question. Will the LED system be aligned with the switch? I had this problem with M43 and I had to correct the alignment myself.
Probably. The MCPCB is screwed into the same piece of metal the switch is in.
Pavlo wrote:
Regarding length, seems similar to m43. Doesn’t the boost driver in the m43 occupy alot of space?
Yes, the boost driver components took up a fair amount of space. I don’t have my Meteor apart to compare, but I think the extra space has been converted into additional thermal mass to help deal with the crazy amount of power running through the D18.
nokoff wrote:
I understand there is no AUXLED at first, and some people do not want, but is there any plan to add it because personally I love the D4S AUXLEDs.
I’m not sure there is even anywhere to put aux LEDs. The front surface is packed with white LEDs and I haven’t seen the optics but it looks like there may not be any room for anything else.
Firelight2 wrote:
Best option is to get Anduril firmware so you can turn off the aux leds if desired.
This light has no aux LEDs, so the firmware is built without that option. However, RampingIOS V3 and Anduril have the same aux LED controls so it makes no difference which is used.
OTOH, lightning mode would be fun on such a bright light.
Johm wrote:
Does it have candle and lightning storm modes?
Probably not, but I’m still trying to confirm that. I’m not sure if Hank is willing to change the UI significantly from previous Emisar products, but I made Anduril available just in case.
joechina wrote:
That doesn’t sound like Andúril.
Is it RampingIOS v3 or RampingIOS v4?
I don’t think Hank plans to use Anduril, even though I keep asking him about it. He’s probably sick of it by now.
In any case, when I update things in Anduril, I also apply those updates to RampingIOS V3. So it has received several updates since the D4S was released. I’m not sure it will make a meaningful difference to anyone, but it has at least received bugfixes and some small UI tweaks.
Firelight2 wrote:
* XPG3 – cheap, but inferior to SST-20 in output, CRI and throw.
Also, XP-G3 makes an ugly rainbow beam.
Yelov wrote:
It’s probably gonna drop the output really fast I assume, right? It seems pretty small for the output it has. My Q8 is bigger and has 1/3rd of the lumens of this light.
Yes, it won’t sustain 14,000 lumens for extended lengths of time. Something this size simply can’t soak up and shed 200W forever, because physics. The batteries can’t sustain it for a long time either, because it’s an awful lot of current coming from each cell. I’d estimate the maximum turbo runtime at about 10 minutes, with water cooling. But without cooling it’ll step down sooner to protect itself.
chouster wrote:
Not sure if driving 18x SST-20 on 1x AMC7135 is a good idea tho. They have a rated minimum current of 200 mA and they’d be driven at 20 mA…
???
It’s a pretty well-tested setup which has worked fine on many lights for years. In this case, it ramps down to a moon mode of about 1.7 mA, which should provide a runtime of about 9 months per charge.
Mtonne wrote:
I feel like number of equivalent Q8s should be the new standard measurement.
Sometimes I use car headlights as a unit of measurement, because it’s something most people are familiar with at night and it works out to a nice round number.
The D18 is similar in brightness to 14 car headlights all pointed at the same place, except the beam should be more focused so it looks more intense.
It also has lower modes though, for the times when we don’t want to blind anyone. ~0.2 lm to ~14,000 lm, in a smooth progression of 150 levels. To select one, simply hold the button and then let go when it reaches the desired level of brightness.
I am a dedicated Emisar fan so of course I will have this, unfortunate that a XPL-HI option would be so expensive though. I have a good many flashlights that are EDC appropriate but I do EDC my D4 with XPL emitters. I like Emisar products for the hotrod wow factor so the D18 with a emitter that is pure show off would be nice. Not worried about heat and output stepdown with a hotrod. I was also hoping that the next release from Hank would be a D1s with 26650 cell.
—
Lurking flashaholic, Ive bought all my flashlights through lurking here, BLF A6, Sofirn C8F, Soforn Q8, Emisar D4, and a few not so budget lights but I mod them all the same! Been waiting for the FW3A to come out for years now.......
Looks nice, 14000 lumen really a lot. actually i dont going buy D18 because i have not needed for powerful flashlight with more than single cell. and i already have one soda can torch
junkyardbiker wrote:
I like Emisar products for the hotrod wow factor so the D18 with a emitter that is pure show off would be nice. Not worried about heat and output stepdown with a hotrod.
I was disappointed when the D7 (or was it D8?) was scrapped. I’m very excited that Hank doubled it and then some! Really cool, especially in the 3×18650 smaller diameter.
I was disappointed when the D7 (or was it D8?) was scrapped. I’m very excited that Hank doubled it and then some! Really cool, especially in the 3×18650 smaller diameter.
Absolutely. One trauma resolved! And I’ve always preferred 3×18650 over 1×26650 as well.
Also, someone defend this against MT03 TA Devourer. I was planning to get one of those…
I’m only on page 3 so I don’t know if this has already been mentioned.
The MT03 has been known to have multiple issues. The locating pins in the tail cap breaking off, shorts in tail cap, the FET leaking and/or burning out. Also, not everyone likes the yellow corona of the 70.2. You kinda get used to it, but it’s probably ugly compared directly to this Emisar light. Keep in mind the MT03 is bigger and uses 4 18650. That can be good or bad depending on your preferences.
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
A 3× 18350 tube would be great. It would still output almost 10 000 lumens and be a huge advantage over the new MF01S. I’m sure nobody would complain about an almost cube formed flashlight!
Thanks @BlueSwordM and SKV89, I would have wasted some money experimenting with the 3500K, my favourite CCT if not your clarification.
It appears the best way to achieve a true below-bbl high CRI light is by mixing two leds with 1000K difference which already are on or slightly below the BBL.
So I’ll most likely go for a 5D HI version or wait till someone sources truly rosy SST-20’s.
Another option is to mod the Meteor with 4 VR21SP4 MCPCB’s with a total of 12 mixed E21A’s in R9080+ and some 20mm Yajiamei TIRLED optics
—
virence.com Nichia E21A sw30+sw40 Wizard Pro ; Skilhunt H03 XP-E2 660nm Photo Red ; Wizard Pro E21A 2000K ; S2+ E21A sw40 d220 (for sale)
I’m sure nobody would complain about an almost cube formed flashlight!
Keep shortening it and we’ll reach a form factor that I think should be called “Tuna Can Flashlight”.
Now that I think about it, a really flat flashlight with a ton of LEDs on the front could be the next big thing for pocket rockets. Maybe a smartphone form factor with a wall of LEDs or even a big COB on one side and a slim Li-Po to power it… That’s a discussion for another thread though.
Keep shortening it and we’ll reach a form factor that I think should be called “Tuna Can Flashlight”.
Now that I think about it, a really flat flashlight with a ton of LEDs on the front could be the next big thing for pocket rockets. Maybe a smartphone form factor with a wall of LEDs or even a big COB on one side and a slim Li-Po to power it… That’s a discussion for another thread though.
Yeah, like one of those hockey puck closet lights.
Now that I think about it, a really flat flashlight with a ton of LEDs on the front could be the next big thing for pocket rockets. Maybe a smartphone form factor with a wall of LEDs or even a big COB on one side and a slim Li-Po to power it… That’s a discussion for another thread though.
We already have this. Smart phone sized, full of 2 color leds. You can change the tint from 6500K to 3000K. Built in battery pack. They use it for filming. They can’t handle much brightness/heat, though.
No need to invent what already exists. Lol
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Thanks @BlueSwordM and SKV89, I would have wasted some money experimenting with the 3500K, my favourite CCT if not your clarification.
It appears the best way to achieve a true below-bbl high CRI light is by mixing two leds with 1000K difference which already are on or slightly below the BBL.
So I’ll most likely go for a 5D HI version or wait till someone sources truly rosy SST-20’s.
Another option is to mod the Meteor with 4 VR21SP4 MCPCB’s with a total of 12 mixed E21A’s in R9080+ and some 20mm Yajiamei TIRLED optics
The best 3500k I’ve seen is my Tiara Pro quad E21A with 2× 3000k and 2×4000k. It is a good bit below the bbl even at low output. At max output, because how far it is below the BBL, it actually looks alot whiter/neutral than it should be for standard 3500k that looks warmish/yellowish. Just looking at it by itself, it looks more like 4000k. Another good 3500k option is the Oslon Square 3500k 92CRI, which is spec’ed at 5Q tint bin, supposedly very far below the BBL. It does not look above BBL for sure, more like what I would expect from a 6Q tint bin. It looks just below the BBL and not far below like the E21A mixed 3500k.
Clemence is coming up with some new MCPCBs for the E21A that will allow more options for this emitter. One of the most interesting ones is the 16xE21A mcpcb that he mentioned about in his thread. That should allow the E21A to output a good bit above the XHP70.2 with 9080 goodness.
Toykeeper, TA mentioned that there is an issue with active temperature regulation in Anduril for high output lights. Does RampIOS have ATR and does it have this problem fixed? I really hope it does especially considering the good heat shedding potential of this host.
Deleting a just published post causes the forum thread answer notification to fail. Thus, if you need to change your just published post, edit it. Thanks.
Please avoid fully quoting lenghty posts, namely with nested quotes. Trim quotes down to the essential. Helps with neatness and legibility. Thanks.
Maybe produce a 3× 18350 tube for 7cm length? I really like this golden color!
If there is enough interest in the 3*18350 tube, sure we can make it.
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+I’m not sure of or why the marketing reason to go *too big of a light for sales!+*
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Profit in the long-run must be KING to stay alive and can not be forgotten for long run! Boil it down and you have to make a profit no mater who is offended even though flashlight folks are the easiest offended… Understanding its a give and take of service and product. Having 100’s of flashlights and use ONE everyday! I could float a battleship with Fivemega (Richard Socialist Head) Lights and even 18650 lights that go unused! The vast majority of consumers don’t want to modify a flashlight (although a significant number on BLF do, but not a majority in any stretch of the imagination) ( I don’t want or need to be bothered! Certainly not profitable!) (Emisar is barely mentioned on CPF as you know, which leaves Blf/Tlf – Asia/sensored)
1 × 18350 (because the 16340 suck) with 1 LED in neutral tint with good CRI and fair mix of spot/flood in a true small and compact EDC size, including a good clip & in the form like the Zebralight SC32 running latest Anduril (although the Zebra interface has its advantages of double modes and set placement, function & cc) would outsell the current Zebralights – Olights – Sofrin – Fenix -HDS – Oveready Boss – Surefire – Klarus – Convoy – TN – Astrolux – Armytek & etc currently on market given its proper due… Add upgrade or in some instances downgrade to 18650/21700 battery tube and it could be a game changer… Overly simplified for sure but something to think about, maybe! I say that because I can’t think of or find a light that hits the fit and function of a small cost effective EDC. Other than the Zebra (Olight doesn’t, can’t, wont…)
On the contrarian side of things the 18350/16340 is limited to flashlight enthusiast although so is BLF/CPF as well as in availability of the battery itself. The only other person in my city most likely that knows about the Emisar brand of lights is my brother that I encourage to buy. AA or 18650 makes more profit for the majority. Enthusiast vs the majority? ( For the muggle mode people old software is fine. For the Enthusiast market, people notice when TK offers updated software to the latest version at your fingertips and it doesn’t happen over a long period of time… Endless talk for the majority of sticking six pins or whatever into the board to upgrade equates to switching a dog from premium soft food to Old Roy hard cardboard!
Big powerful lights that can’t sustain the heat or brightness and sit on the shelf vs a usable very bright light that is small and versatile that fulfills a majority of needs… Where is the profit!
Is the Majority the target, who knows and that is the conundrum! As an enthusiast, which is the target market, I’d buy the 18350 with 1 LED with more than enough output given the outstanding versatility included in the user interface and I’d use it every day…
This light is making quite the impression. This thread is growing fast. What’s it been……30 hours or so.
Hank,
I’d really like an 18500 tube. May even leave a little body left to hold on to.
I have about 100 Efest 18500’s I need to do something with.
At very low current (<100mA) efficiency become decrease.
Unfortunately no test at BLF has low current range.
I too am interested in what choice of optics there are. I’m not really familiar with this type of individual optic per emitter. One thing I like about the Meteor (and D4) is the availability of different optics to adjust the beam from a balance of throw and flood (e.g. the Carclo 10621 or 10622) to very floody (e.g. the Carclo 10623 or 10624). Are there similar options for the type of TIR optic that the D18 will use?
Hank,
Can I ask, what is the diameter of the individual optics?
I love passion combined with quality
Apologies for the long post. Trying to answer some questions all at once…
It really does. Dale makes some insanely bright lights, and when I turn this on at turbo, I get a taste of how Dale must feel. Even without optics, it’s very bright. It’s like turning on 15 to 20 60W equivalent light bulbs all at once. Normally I find even two of those bulbs to be excessive for an average room, but the D18 turns a room into something surreal like in a movie when they want to convey a holy aura or something.
Probably. The MCPCB is screwed into the same piece of metal the switch is in.
Yes, the boost driver components took up a fair amount of space. I don’t have my Meteor apart to compare, but I think the extra space has been converted into additional thermal mass to help deal with the crazy amount of power running through the D18.
I’m not sure there is even anywhere to put aux LEDs. The front surface is packed with white LEDs and I haven’t seen the optics but it looks like there may not be any room for anything else.
This light has no aux LEDs, so the firmware is built without that option. However, RampingIOS V3 and Anduril have the same aux LED controls so it makes no difference which is used.
OTOH, lightning mode would be fun on such a bright light.
Probably not, but I’m still trying to confirm that. I’m not sure if Hank is willing to change the UI significantly from previous Emisar products, but I made Anduril available just in case.
I don’t think Hank plans to use Anduril, even though I keep asking him about it.
He’s probably sick of it by now.
In any case, when I update things in Anduril, I also apply those updates to RampingIOS V3. So it has received several updates since the D4S was released. I’m not sure it will make a meaningful difference to anyone, but it has at least received bugfixes and some small UI tweaks.
Also, XP-G3 makes an ugly rainbow beam.
Yes, it won’t sustain 14,000 lumens for extended lengths of time. Something this size simply can’t soak up and shed 200W forever, because physics. The batteries can’t sustain it for a long time either, because it’s an awful lot of current coming from each cell. I’d estimate the maximum turbo runtime at about 10 minutes, with water cooling. But without cooling it’ll step down sooner to protect itself.
???
It’s a pretty well-tested setup which has worked fine on many lights for years. In this case, it ramps down to a moon mode of about 1.7 mA, which should provide a runtime of about 9 months per charge.
Sometimes I use car headlights as a unit of measurement, because it’s something most people are familiar with at night and it works out to a nice round number.
The D18 is similar in brightness to 14 car headlights all pointed at the same place, except the beam should be more focused so it looks more intense.
It also has lower modes though, for the times when we don’t want to blind anyone. ~0.2 lm to ~14,000 lm, in a smooth progression of 150 levels. To select one, simply hold the button and then let go when it reaches the desired level of brightness.
M43 was also constructed in the same way and still crooked. I had to drill holes again and make new screw threads.
Click on: ANSI WHITE
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Click on: Q8, D4, D4S, D18, K1, FW3A, SDmini, Mini AAA, TIP, M43, H1, H03, TC20, TN40S, TN42, V6, H600Fw, SC600w, SC64w
I am a dedicated Emisar fan so of course I will have this, unfortunate that a XPL-HI option would be so expensive though. I have a good many flashlights that are EDC appropriate but I do EDC my D4 with XPL emitters. I like Emisar products for the hotrod wow factor so the D18 with a emitter that is pure show off would be nice. Not worried about heat and output stepdown with a hotrod. I was also hoping that the next release from Hank would be a D1s with 26650 cell.
Lurking flashaholic, Ive bought all my flashlights through lurking here, BLF A6, Sofirn C8F, Soforn Q8, Emisar D4, and a few not so budget lights but I mod them all the same! Been waiting for the FW3A to come out for years now.......
Looks nice, 14000 lumen really a lot. actually i dont going buy D18 because i have not needed for powerful flashlight with more than single cell. and i already have one soda can torch
you completely right.
I was disappointed when the D7 (or was it D8?) was scrapped. I’m very excited that Hank doubled it and then some! Really cool, especially in the 3×18650 smaller diameter.
Absolutely. One trauma resolved! And I’ve always preferred 3×18650 over 1×26650 as well.
Don’t we all!
Do we sign up, or is this first come first serve?
I’m only on page 3 so I don’t know if this has already been mentioned.
The MT03 has been known to have multiple issues. The locating pins in the tail cap breaking off, shorts in tail cap, the FET leaking and/or burning out. Also, not everyone likes the yellow corona of the 70.2. You kinda get used to it, but it’s probably ugly compared directly to this Emisar light. Keep in mind the MT03 is bigger and uses 4 18650. That can be good or bad depending on your preferences.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
Hank, thanks for creating and executing another fantastic light!
https://intl-outdoor.com, Noctigon, Emisar, flashlight components.
I’m interested in the 3*18350 tube.
The light already seems a little too stubby as it is. You guys are weird.
Same LED arrangement as Foursevens.
@1theDeals
Except TIR instead of reflectors. Plus way, way cheaper! Lol
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
A 3× 18350 tube would be great.
It would still output almost 10 000 lumens and be a huge advantage over the new MF01S. 
I’m sure nobody would complain about an almost cube formed flashlight! 
My Youtube channel: Alllightson Reviews
My 7th Old lumens contest build: Matainvoy ML18S, Built video
My reviews: Sofirn SP31 V2, Nightwatch NI40, Sofirn C8F 21700, Brinyte WT01, Sofirn SD05,Ti AAA keychain, Sofirn SP33 V3, Skilhunt M150
My Youtube video-reviews: Brinyte WT01, Sofirn SD05, Ti AAA keychain, Sofirn SP33 V3
Thanks @BlueSwordM and SKV89, I would have wasted some money experimenting with the 3500K, my favourite CCT if not your clarification.
It appears the best way to achieve a true below-bbl high CRI light is by mixing two leds with 1000K difference which already are on or slightly below the BBL.
So I’ll most likely go for a 5D HI version or wait till someone sources truly rosy SST-20’s.
Another option is to mod the Meteor with 4 VR21SP4 MCPCB’s with a total of 12 mixed E21A’s in R9080+ and some 20mm Yajiamei TIR LED optics
virence.com Nichia E21A sw30+sw40 Wizard Pro ; Skilhunt H03 XP-E2 660nm Photo Red ; Wizard Pro E21A 2000K ; S2+ E21A sw40 d220 (for sale)
Keep shortening it and we’ll reach a form factor that I think should be called “Tuna Can Flashlight”.
Now that I think about it, a really flat flashlight with a ton of LEDs on the front could be the next big thing for pocket rockets. Maybe a smartphone form factor with a wall of LEDs or even a big COB on one side and a slim Li-Po to power it… That’s a discussion for another thread though.
I gotta tell ya, this is pretty terrific!
Yeah, like one of those hockey puck closet lights.
We already have this. Smart phone sized, full of 2 color leds. You can change the tint from 6500K to 3000K. Built in battery pack. They use it for filming. They can’t handle much brightness/heat, though.
No need to invent what already exists. Lol
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
The best 3500k I’ve seen is my Tiara Pro quad E21A with 2× 3000k and 2×4000k. It is a good bit below the bbl even at low output. At max output, because how far it is below the BBL, it actually looks alot whiter/neutral than it should be for standard 3500k that looks warmish/yellowish. Just looking at it by itself, it looks more like 4000k. Another good 3500k option is the Oslon Square 3500k 92CRI, which is spec’ed at 5Q tint bin, supposedly very far below the BBL. It does not look above BBL for sure, more like what I would expect from a 6Q tint bin. It looks just below the BBL and not far below like the E21A mixed 3500k.
Clemence is coming up with some new MCPCBs for the E21A that will allow more options for this emitter. One of the most interesting ones is the 16xE21A mcpcb that he mentioned about in his thread. That should allow the E21A to output a good bit above the XHP70.2 with 9080 goodness.
Toykeeper, TA mentioned that there is an issue with active temperature regulation in Anduril for high output lights. Does RampIOS have ATR and does it have this problem fixed? I really hope it does especially considering the good heat shedding potential of this host.
Bunker fuel flashlight LoL.
Deleting a just published post causes the forum thread answer notification to fail. Thus, if you need to change your just published post, edit it. Thanks.
Please avoid fully quoting lenghty posts, namely with nested quotes. Trim quotes down to the essential. Helps with neatness and legibility. Thanks.
- Yeah, but is it ultra high CRI?
I’d love a shorty 18350 tube for this light!
.
.
.
+I’m not sure of or why the marketing reason to go *too big of a light for sales!+*
.
.
.
Profit in the long-run must be KING to stay alive and can not be forgotten for long run! Boil it down and you have to make a profit no mater who is offended even though flashlight folks are the easiest offended… Understanding its a give and take of service and product. Having 100’s of flashlights and use ONE everyday! I could float a battleship with Fivemega (Richard Socialist Head) Lights and even 18650 lights that go unused! The vast majority of consumers don’t want to modify a flashlight (although a significant number on BLF do, but not a majority in any stretch of the imagination) ( I don’t want or need to be bothered! Certainly not profitable!) (Emisar is barely mentioned on CPF as you know, which leaves Blf/Tlf – Asia/sensored)
1 × 18350 (because the 16340 suck) with 1 LED in neutral tint with good CRI and fair mix of spot/flood in a true small and compact EDC size, including a good clip & in the form like the Zebralight SC32 running latest Anduril (although the Zebra interface has its advantages of double modes and set placement, function & cc) would outsell the current Zebralights – Olights – Sofrin – Fenix -HDS – Oveready Boss – Surefire – Klarus – Convoy – TN – Astrolux – Armytek & etc currently on market given its proper due… Add upgrade or in some instances downgrade to 18650/21700 battery tube and it could be a game changer… Overly simplified for sure but something to think about, maybe! I say that because I can’t think of or find a light that hits the fit and function of a small cost effective EDC. Other than the Zebra (Olight doesn’t, can’t, wont…)
On the contrarian side of things the 18350/16340 is limited to flashlight enthusiast although so is BLF/CPF as well as in availability of the battery itself. The only other person in my city most likely that knows about the Emisar brand of lights is my brother that I encourage to buy. AA or 18650 makes more profit for the majority. Enthusiast vs the majority? ( For the muggle mode people old software is fine. For the Enthusiast market, people notice when TK offers updated software to the latest version at your fingertips and it doesn’t happen over a long period of time… Endless talk for the majority of sticking six pins or whatever into the board to upgrade equates to switching a dog from premium soft food to Old Roy hard cardboard!
Big powerful lights that can’t sustain the heat or brightness and sit on the shelf vs a usable very bright light that is small and versatile that fulfills a majority of needs… Where is the profit!
Is the Majority the target, who knows and that is the conundrum! As an enthusiast, which is the target market, I’d buy the 18350 with 1 LED with more than enough output given the outstanding versatility included in the user interface and I’d use it every day…
This light is making quite the impression. This thread is growing fast. What’s it been……30 hours or so.
Hank, I’d really like an 18500 tube. May even leave a little body left to hold on to.
I have about 100 Efest 18500’s I need to do something with.
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