My two GT micro lights and batteries just arrives.
Small…
Tested and they both looks fine.
(A little “flickering” on both, at the lower end of the ramp, and then it stops.) !!??
Thanks to all involved.
My two GT micro lights and batteries just arrives.
Small…
Tested and they both looks fine.
(A little “flickering” on both, at the lower end of the ramp, and then it stops.) !!??
Thanks to all involved.
The little flicker might be when it switches from the FET to the 7135. I can see it in mine as well. It’s barely noticable.
Also keep in mind that narsil gives a single quick blink at the bottom and top of the ramp. This might be what you’re describing, the blink at the bottom.
I forget, is this a FET + 1? I think so.
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Yes, sounds like the normal fast blink to show you reached the max or min.
I'm finding this little bugger can throw pretty well. It's beating my D1 with the D1 having a big advantage of an 18650 cell. Of course the problem is the Micro won't last for very long...
DHL just left, I eagerly rushed in the house and ripped open the bag, cut the tape on the box inside, pulled out the bubble wrapped black box… huh? A Fireflies box? Not 2 GT Micro’s? Nope, a black Fireflies E07 with a Samsung 40T inside it.
Actually, looking at the Fireflies website this particular light and with DHL shipping comes to $105 so someone is probably mad to have only gotten 2 GT Micro’s in their package. lol
This is a matte black E07 with XP-L HI 6500K emitters and the Samsung 40T inside. That’s a $20 extra for the emitters and $15 extra for the cell. Not sure how Neal is going to work that out but…
While that sounds good and all, the likelihood is quite slim. I’d be game to get it swapped out if the other party is even in the US, reckon we’ll figure all that out when he finds out what happened.
I’m completely left out of the loop for all these new lights so no idea what’s goin on. He should be posting his exact source code used in this light, and the other TA lights being sold by BG and others, but I can’t find any trace of software links, …
I missed this post earlier. Did you ever get a copy of the code for this light?
There have been a handful lights lately where I haven’t found any indication of distributors actually following the license. Sometimes I try to chase these down and work toward a resolution, sometimes I put it on my todo list and then never get to it. It’s not really supposed to be my responsibility though, or yours, unless we’re actually involved in making the light.
Texas_Ace wrote:
Any light that I work on feel free to contact me and I am happy to give the source code.
This helps, but it may be a good idea to look over the license again. It allows for several solutions, but this isn’t one of them. The closest method is shown in section 6c:
GPLv3 wrote:
c) Convey individual copies of the object code with a copy of the written offer to provide the Corresponding Source. This alternative is allowed only occasionally and noncommercially…
For commercial purposes, a less ad-hoc method is needed. Ideally, the info and links should be posted somewhere visible to the public and easily discoverable, like on the manufacturer’s page for the product and on the retailers’ sites. However, it can also work to put that info in the manual or otherwise on materials which ship with the light. Specifically, it needs to be somewhere “prominent”… hard to miss… having a quality that thrusts itself into attention… conspicuous in position or importance.
The companies involved typically aren’t aware of this though, so it’s kind of up to us (whoever is working with those companies) to make sure it happens.
A prominent notice and a copy of the code.
And, although not legally required, it’s generally nice to let the upstream author(s) know about it, try to get any changes merged back into the upstream code, and link to their project. Not just for the warm fuzzies, but also in the interests of keeping things clean and straightforward.
I'm completely left out of the loop for all these new lights so no idea what's goin on. He should be posting his exact source code used in this light, and the other TA lights being sold by BG and others, but I can't find any trace of software links, ...
I missed this post earlier. Did you ever get a copy of the code for this light? There have been a handful lights lately where I haven't found any indication of distributors actually following the license. Sometimes I try to chase these down and work toward a resolution, sometimes I put it on my todo list and then never get to it. It's not really supposed to be my responsibility though, or yours, unless we're actually involved in making the light.
Oh boy, this was a while back - think I did. Bogged down with too much stuff as of late - can't keep up.
Yeah, I'd like a direct link to the code posted, as it should be. Most seem to post links to the repository, then it's up to the user to make the best guess. For me, that's not the intent - we need a direct link to the exact code that created the HEX file, or binaries that is programmed into the light - nothing short of that, and that seems like it can't be achieved for some reason... But if you, me, TA, or Lexel are the code providers, seems like they don't communicate back to us, so we don't even know what version we gave them they actually used. I "think" Hank is doing that, but weird it's only on the D4 listing and the page is in Chinese, so, could be the same binaries for all his lights he's shipping.
I’m completely left out of the loop for all these new lights so no idea what’s goin on. He should be posting his exact source code used in this light, and the other TA lights being sold by BG and others, but I can’t find any trace of software links, …
I missed this post earlier. Did you ever get a copy of the code for this light?
There have been a handful lights lately where I haven’t found any indication of distributors actually following the license. Sometimes I try to chase these down and work toward a resolution, sometimes I put it on my todo list and then never get to it. It’s not really supposed to be my responsibility though, or yours, unless we’re actually involved in making the light.
Texas_Ace wrote:
Any light that I work on feel free to contact me and I am happy to give the source code.
This helps, but it may be a good idea to look over the license again. It allows for several solutions, but this isn’t one of them. The closest method is shown in section 6c:
GPLv3 wrote:
c) Convey individual copies of the object code with a copy of the written offer to provide the Corresponding Source. This alternative is allowed only occasionally and noncommercially…
For commercial purposes, a less ad-hoc method is needed. Ideally, the info and links should be posted somewhere visible to the public and easily discoverable, like on the manufacturer’s page for the product and on the retailers’ sites. However, it can also work to put that info in the manual or otherwise on materials which ship with the light. Specifically, it needs to be somewhere “prominent”… hard to miss… having a quality that thrusts itself into attention… conspicuous in position or importance.
The companies involved typically aren’t aware of this though, so it’s kind of up to us (whoever is working with those companies) to make sure it happens.
A prominent notice and a copy of the code.
And, although not legally required, it’s generally nice to let the upstream author(s) know about it, try to get any changes merged back into the upstream code, and link to their project. Not just for the warm fuzzies, but also in the interests of keeping things clean and straightforward.
I have wanted to include links with every light I have worked on but one thing or another prevented it.
For a lot of the lights I have worked on such as the MT09R there was no official website for it to be hosted on and no link to be included in the manual. Or they didn’t use the manual we sent anyways.
For others like the GT series while there is a website there is a massive disconnect between the people I talk to and those running the website. Even getting basic specs corrected on the site proved a big undertaking.
Trying to get a file hosted and a link added was a lesson in futility I came to find. Not having a link was the reason one was not included in the manual as well, this was the plan at first but with no where to host it there was simply no link to include in the manual.
The S43 was released before I even knew the project was moving forward, so I never had a say in that at all. Banggood is just too spread out and no one has the power to do anything it seems.
The MF01 still doesn’t have a final firmware, so there is an issue of even having something to upload before the manuals are printed and I have not tried to figure out hosting said file yet since they don’t have a website of their own.
I am happy to include a link in the manual when thy actually use the manuals we provide but actually getting the file hosted so there can be a link has proven the real issue for this. Getting the link included on the product page would also be possible if there was a file to link to in many cases.
I am aware that posting the firmware randomly in the product threads is far from ideal but I simply have not been able to find a better option. If you have one I am all ears.
Well, if the code is archived in a repository, why not have Martin update the opening thread with a link to the code, so at least those searching for info on this light will find this thread and thus a link to the code on page 1? Again, not ideal, but it’s better than what it is now, which is nil. I’m sure there are threads for all the above lights, and links could be added there too.
Well, if the code is archived in a repository, why not have Martin update the opening thread with a link to the code, so at least those searching for info on this light will find this thread and thus a link to the code on page 1? Again, not ideal, but it’s better than what it is now, which is nil. I’m sure there are threads for all the above lights, and links could be added there too.
This is basically what has been happening, I have been posting the firmware in the random threads for each light, it just tends to get lost in them.
I actually did not make the firmware or driver for this light, Schoki did both, he just used the TA layout and my version of Narsil as the base for it.
I don’t know that I ever got the source code for this light, I need to check on that come to think of it.
Well, if the code is archived in a repository, why not have Martin update the opening thread with a link to the code, so at least those searching for info on this light will find this thread and thus a link to the code on page 1? Again, not ideal, but it’s better than what it is now, which is nil. I’m sure there are threads for all the above lights, and links could be added there too.
This is basically what has been happening, I have been posting the firmware in the random threads for each light, it just tends to get lost in them.
I actually did not make the firmware or driver for this light, Schoki did both, he just used the TA layout and my version of Narsil as the base for it.
I don’t know that I ever got the source code for this light, I need to check on that come to think of it.
That’s cool… though my suggestion is to have the link in the opening post (will need the poster to edit said post) this way at least we’ll all know that the source code is in the opening post for threads like these. Making it at least easier to find, rather than digging through pages and pages.
May also help to collaborate with reviewers of such lights; that they can add a link to the source code. They can also do it in the comments section on YouTube as well. We have a few guys that regularly review lights; I can’t see why they wouldn’t do it?!
Looks like I was mistaken, Schoki made the driver and I assumed he made the firmware as well since there was no firmware in my archive for this light. Turns out he did not send it either, it seems they used the GT-mini firmware on the GT micro.
The worst thing about this is that such a low capacity battery is enough for 8 minutes of turbo lighting. That’s why I prefer the flashlight to 18650. They are not much bulky, and they can shine much longer.
I recieved my high drain *Windyfire 650mah* battery. Here are the updated numbers. Tail cap amp draws using the UT210E clamp meter. Top of ramp - *2.2A* Turbo at 3 secs - *4.6A* Turbo at 30 secs - *4.1A* Maukka calibrated TA Lumen Tube to measure the output. Top of ramp - *650 lm* Turbo at 1 secs - *1100 lm* Turbo at 30 secs - *970 lm* LX1330B lux meter at 10 meters to measure throw. At 10 seconds I got *63Kcd - 502 meters*. At 30 seconds the output dropped to *60Kcd - 490 meters*.
The worst thing about this is that such a low capacity battery is enough for 8 minutes of turbo lighting. That’s why I prefer the flashlight to 18650. They are not much bulky, and they can shine much longer.
I agree, while this is a nice light of this size, its not that much smaller compared to gt mini which is perfect thrower in that size to justify a purchase for me, i rather for a gt nano if thats even possible to do… shame that 14500 is max at around 1000mah.. thats not much for a light pulling almost 1000 lumens max turbo
18650 is made by top notch Japanese battery makers using their special chemical mixes to get the best performance whether it be high capacity or high amperage.
All the smaller sizes (16340, 14500, 18350, etc…) are only made by smaller battery companies who don’t have the best mixes. This is why the highest capacity 18350 cells are barely 1150mah when they should be about half of an 18650. 1150 × 2 = 2300mah. A top 18650 is about 3400mah. Where are the true 1700mah 18350 cells? They don’t exist.
High amperage is the one area where these smaller companies can kind of compete with the Japanese Big 4. There are 18350 cells that really can put of half the amperage of an 18650 and then some.
The same situation goes for 26650 cells. If the Big 4 made that size we would see 7000mah 26650, but we don’t. Recently we got some 5,750mah 26650 cells. That’s a big jump over the previous 5,000mah.
So if you want the best batteries, you need to stick to 18650 or 21700 as they are made by the Big 4. Just the way it is. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
PS, I still like these bigger and smaller sizes even though they don’t have the best capacity. They make for interesting lights.
PPS, the Big 4 are LG, Sony, Samsung and Panasonic/Sanyo.
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Lumens at top of ramp, lumens at turbo, and throw — dead-on or very close.
You are pulling slightly higher amps than me. I wonder if it’s because my battery is a button top? I forgot to mention that, but added it.
It’s really tricky trying to hold the wires to get that tail cap amperage. I might try it again later. Maybe I’ll charge and drain the battery a few times to “break it in”.
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
My two GT micro lights and batteries just arrives.
Small…
Tested and they both looks fine.
(A little “flickering” on both, at the lower end of the ramp, and then it stops.) !!??
Thanks to all involved.
The little flicker might be when it switches from the FET to the 7135. I can see it in mine as well. It’s barely noticable.
Also keep in mind that narsil gives a single quick blink at the bottom and top of the ramp. This might be what you’re describing, the blink at the bottom.
I forget, is this a FET + 1? I think so.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
Mine are to be delivered today via DHL, the wait continues…. lol
Yes, sounds like the normal fast blink to show you reached the max or min.
I'm finding this little bugger can throw pretty well. It's beating my D1 with the D1 having a big advantage of an 18650 cell. Of course the problem is the Micro won't last for very long...
DHL just left, I eagerly rushed in the house and ripped open the bag, cut the tape on the box inside, pulled out the bubble wrapped black box… huh? A Fireflies box? Not 2 GT Micro’s? Nope, a black Fireflies E07 with a Samsung 40T inside it.
I paid $90 for an E07 with a cell.
And the wait continues…
Actually, looking at the Fireflies website this particular light and with DHL shipping comes to $105 so someone is probably mad to have only gotten 2 GT Micro’s in their package. lol
This is a matte black E07 with XP-L HI 6500K emitters and the Samsung 40T inside. That’s a $20 extra for the emitters and $15 extra for the cell. Not sure how Neal is going to work that out but…
I wonder if the one with the wrong 2 Micro’s is going to report here. If he lives around the corner, a swap is easy and Neal is lucky.
link to djozz tests
While that sounds good and all, the likelihood is quite slim. I’d be game to get it swapped out if the other party is even in the US, reckon we’ll figure all that out when he finds out what happened.
I missed this post earlier. Did you ever get a copy of the code for this light?
There have been a handful lights lately where I haven’t found any indication of distributors actually following the license. Sometimes I try to chase these down and work toward a resolution, sometimes I put it on my todo list and then never get to it. It’s not really supposed to be my responsibility though, or yours, unless we’re actually involved in making the light.
This helps, but it may be a good idea to look over the license again. It allows for several solutions, but this isn’t one of them. The closest method is shown in section 6c:
For commercial purposes, a less ad-hoc method is needed. Ideally, the info and links should be posted somewhere visible to the public and easily discoverable, like on the manufacturer’s page for the product and on the retailers’ sites. However, it can also work to put that info in the manual or otherwise on materials which ship with the light. Specifically, it needs to be somewhere “prominent”… hard to miss… having a quality that thrusts itself into attention… conspicuous in position or importance.
The companies involved typically aren’t aware of this though, so it’s kind of up to us (whoever is working with those companies) to make sure it happens.
A prominent notice and a copy of the code.
And, although not legally required, it’s generally nice to let the upstream author(s) know about it, try to get any changes merged back into the upstream code, and link to their project. Not just for the warm fuzzies, but also in the interests of keeping things clean and straightforward.
Slip slidin’ away
Slip slidin’ away
You know the nearer your destination
The more you’re slip slidin’ away
It is what it is…
Mine shipped, will update when it arrives
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Oh boy, this was a while back - think I did. Bogged down with too much stuff as of late - can't keep up.
Yeah, I'd like a direct link to the code posted, as it should be. Most seem to post links to the repository, then it's up to the user to make the best guess. For me, that's not the intent - we need a direct link to the exact code that created the HEX file, or binaries that is programmed into the light - nothing short of that, and that seems like it can't be achieved for some reason... But if you, me, TA, or Lexel are the code providers, seems like they don't communicate back to us, so we don't even know what version we gave them they actually used. I "think" Hank is doing that, but weird it's only on the D4 listing and the page is in Chinese, so, could be the same binaries for all his lights he's shipping.
I have wanted to include links with every light I have worked on but one thing or another prevented it.
For a lot of the lights I have worked on such as the MT09R there was no official website for it to be hosted on and no link to be included in the manual. Or they didn’t use the manual we sent anyways.
For others like the GT series while there is a website there is a massive disconnect between the people I talk to and those running the website. Even getting basic specs corrected on the site proved a big undertaking.
Trying to get a file hosted and a link added was a lesson in futility I came to find. Not having a link was the reason one was not included in the manual as well, this was the plan at first but with no where to host it there was simply no link to include in the manual.
The S43 was released before I even knew the project was moving forward, so I never had a say in that at all. Banggood is just too spread out and no one has the power to do anything it seems.
The MF01 still doesn’t have a final firmware, so there is an issue of even having something to upload before the manuals are printed and I have not tried to figure out hosting said file yet since they don’t have a website of their own.
I am happy to include a link in the manual when thy actually use the manuals we provide but actually getting the file hosted so there can be a link has proven the real issue for this. Getting the link included on the product page would also be possible if there was a file to link to in many cases.
I am aware that posting the firmware randomly in the product threads is far from ideal but I simply have not been able to find a better option. If you have one I am all ears.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
Well, if the code is archived in a repository, why not have Martin update the opening thread with a link to the code, so at least those searching for info on this light will find this thread and thus a link to the code on page 1? Again, not ideal, but it’s better than what it is now, which is nil. I’m sure there are threads for all the above lights, and links could be added there too.
This is basically what has been happening, I have been posting the firmware in the random threads for each light, it just tends to get lost in them.
I actually did not make the firmware or driver for this light, Schoki did both, he just used the TA layout and my version of Narsil as the base for it.
I don’t know that I ever got the source code for this light, I need to check on that come to think of it.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
That’s cool… though my suggestion is to have the link in the opening post (will need the poster to edit said post) this way at least we’ll all know that the source code is in the opening post for threads like these. Making it at least easier to find, rather than digging through pages and pages.
May also help to collaborate with reviewers of such lights; that they can add a link to the source code. They can also do it in the comments section on YouTube as well. We have a few guys that regularly review lights; I can’t see why they wouldn’t do it?!
if i get those links i will add them of course!
all new deals are also posted here: deals.m4dm4x.com
if you do not find what you are looking for :
ask MARTIN@M4DM4X.COM - i will save you money!
Looks like I was mistaken, Schoki made the driver and I assumed he made the firmware as well since there was no firmware in my archive for this light. Turns out he did not send it either, it seems they used the GT-mini firmware on the GT micro.
I think TK has this already but not sure if it is in the repo yet. Here it is again though
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
404 page not found, you sure you got the right link? (or was I just too fast)
Edit: yes I was
There are solutions to all of those things. They might not be easy, but work rarely is… and making those solutions happen is part of the job.
Ordered mine on Feburary 23, still unfulfilled.
I recieved my high drain Windyfire 650mah button top battery. Here are the updated numbers.
Tail cap amp draws using the UT210E clamp meter.
Top of ramp – 2.2A
Turbo at 3 secs – 4.6A
Turbo at 30 secs – 4.1A
Maukka calibrated TA Lumen Tube to measure the output.
Top of ramp – 650 lm
Turbo at 1 secs – 1100 lm
Turbo at 30 secs – 970 lm
LX1330B lux meter at 10 meters to measure throw.
At 10 seconds I got 63Kcd – 502 meters.
At 30 seconds the output dropped to 60Kcd – 490 meters.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
Not bad, better then I was expecting.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
The worst thing about this is that such a low capacity battery is enough for 8 minutes of turbo lighting. That’s why I prefer the flashlight to 18650. They are not much bulky, and they can shine much longer.
Click on: ANSI WHITE
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Click on: Q8, D4, D4S, D18, K1, FW3A, SDmini, Mini AAA, TIP, M43, H1, H03, TC20, TN40S, TN42, V6, H600Fw, SC600w, SC64w
We are about dead even, with me using an EFEST here, good to know.
Lumens at top of ramp, lumens at turbo, and throw -- dead-on or very close.
I agree, while this is a nice light of this size, its not that much smaller compared to gt mini which is perfect thrower in that size to justify a purchase for me, i rather for a gt nano if thats even possible to do… shame that 14500 is max at around 1000mah.. thats not much for a light pulling almost 1000 lumens max turbo
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つ ◕_◕ ༽つ
18650 is made by top notch Japanese battery makers using their special chemical mixes to get the best performance whether it be high capacity or high amperage.
All the smaller sizes (16340, 14500, 18350, etc…) are only made by smaller battery companies who don’t have the best mixes. This is why the highest capacity 18350 cells are barely 1150mah when they should be about half of an 18650. 1150 × 2 = 2300mah. A top 18650 is about 3400mah. Where are the true 1700mah 18350 cells? They don’t exist.
High amperage is the one area where these smaller companies can kind of compete with the Japanese Big 4. There are 18350 cells that really can put of half the amperage of an 18650 and then some.
The same situation goes for 26650 cells. If the Big 4 made that size we would see 7000mah 26650, but we don’t. Recently we got some 5,750mah 26650 cells. That’s a big jump over the previous 5,000mah.
So if you want the best batteries, you need to stick to 18650 or 21700 as they are made by the Big 4. Just the way it is. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
PS, I still like these bigger and smaller sizes even though they don’t have the best capacity. They make for interesting lights.
PPS, the Big 4 are LG, Sony, Samsung and Panasonic/Sanyo.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
Jason im just curious, how long does that small Windyfire battery give juice on highest before it starts flickering cant be long right ?
...where Frugal meets with Flashlight!
つ ◕_◕ ༽つ
You are pulling slightly higher amps than me. I wonder if it’s because my battery is a button top? I forgot to mention that, but added it.
It’s really tricky trying to hold the wires to get that tail cap amperage. I might try it again later. Maybe I’ll charge and drain the battery a few times to “break it in”.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
What do you mean flickering? It should never flicker. Do you mean step down from Turbo due to heat or maybe do the Low Voltage Blink then step down?
Let me recharge the battery and try it out.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
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