BLF Community Battery Pulls Overview Thread (Laptop packs and Tool Packs)

search “date codes” on BLF and there are posts stating that the old Panasonic cells with the dots around the top don’t work in the lookup tool.
This thread has more info.

I’ll break out my West Mountain Radio analyzer and run a few sweeps.

Seems that these may be made before 2009 according to: https://www.tomobattery.com/blog/how-to-know-panasonic-18650-battery-manufacture-date-code/

[New version of Panasonic 18650 Battery has 2 bars – a narrow bar and a wide bar. But the old version only has one narrow bar on the PVC. If you see a Panasonic 18650 battery has dot matrix on its top, it must be very old and be manufactured before 2009.]

I got a few panny-As like that, still chugging along!

I love the math

I have a Dell battery pack that i bought directly from Dell online but i don’t use the laptop anymore. I think it would be awesome if i could get some extra cells from it… Butttttt the problem is, i have no idea how to pull the cells from the pack lol.

Lots of youtube videos on taking apart laptop battery packs. It just takes a flat-head screwdriver or some other tool to pry things apart. Just make sure to not nick the cells, so you have to be careful.

Thanks. I think i will pass on this. It’s a pretty new pack. Maybe i can sell it or something. I have to actually DO what I’m trying to learn or i usually will for sure mess up

I’ve got 2 Dell packs today:
PC764 (11.1V 56Wh) contains Panasonic CGR18650E. Note that the first post contains the same pack with different cells.
C1295 (11.1V 4700mAh 53Wh) contains cells marked as “IFHFK6”. I can’t find anything about them…

Some light entertainment during the time of Covid-19 social isolation,
get around to opening a few laptop batteries I had salvaged.
Anyone else with unfinished salvage ?

I'm new to LiIon harvesting & only have experience harvesting two, old, used laptop packs. Those went OK, with one pack of 18650's testing @ just under 1,000mAh, the other set all testing ~2,500 mAh. I'll use the <1,000 set until discharges & discard them.

I was recently given a NOS HP laptop battery pack still in the HP box that is probably 10 - 15 yrs. old, at least. While disassembling, I noticed some corrosion where the wrap was deteriorated, exposing the can on two cells. There's also some minor blistering under the wraps of other cells (not pictured) that leads me to believe corrosion is growing under the wraps on those cells. In addition, I notice a sickly-sweet odor emanating from the pack. I don't trust these cells & the whole pack is residing outside until I visit a HD or other place that accepts cells for recycle.

Cells are marked LG CHEM.

The nick in the wrap above the code on the upper cell is my sloppy doing on disassembly.

Could someone please school me on the corrosion issue and perhaps the odor?

Thanks.

slmjim

Sounds like something leaked. Any time you have leakage, there’s corrosion too, so I’d be careful pulling that pack apart. The outside of the battery under the wrap is the negative contact, so be super careful with cells with damaged wraps because you can short them.

Well Since C-19 and getting batteries sent to Alaska. I have started relying on battery pulls for my 18650s. I need to find a source for 26650s.

I will post up a photo of what I have so far when I get home.

Hello all, I’m new to the Li-ion battery scene, and I have a question. I have a usb battery bank with 5 dead ICR18650-26A. And I want to replace those dead batteries with some ICR18650-26D I pulled from a laptop battery pack.
But I see that the max charging voltage for the ICR18650-26D is 0.1 lower than the ICR18650-26A so I’m wondering should I not attempt to use the ICR18650-26D charged to 4.3v which is 0.1v higher than their max which is 4.2v?
Thanks everyone :slight_smile:

Don’t charge 4.2V cells to 4.3V.

It’s fine to charge 4.3V cells to “only” 4.2V.

Ok thats what I thought, thank you!

Dunno any chargers that charge 4.3V cells (not that I particularly cared, as I don’t have any 4.3V cells). And if so, they’d better default to 4.2V unless manually and explicitly set to 4.3V. Ie, no slide-switch you could forget about and slow-cook your generic 4.2V cells.

Even my LK chargers will default to 4.2V Li-ion when I plop in a 3.2V LFP cell, which is a Bad Thing. And there’s been at least one time I almost forgot to switch it to LFP.

Years ago I bought an XTAR SP1. This is a 1-bay charger strictly for lithium cells.
It has a switch for LFP, 4.2V and 4.35V (though it says: 3…2V, 3.6V and 3.8V)
HKJ has tested it HERE.

Bought it because I got some Samsung ICR18650-28A for a mod with a high forward Voltage UV-led.

Especially in this time and age, my laptop isn’t a mobile PC anymore.
For me it’s just another desktop, always connected to a wall outlet.
And even if I had other plans, the age of it prevents prolonged stand-alone usage.

So I decided to break open the battery box and see whats inside it.
To tell you the truth: it wasn’t all that disappointing at all.

My Compaq Presario M2020EA had a battery pack with a sticker that says: TL 2004-11-09.
Containing 6 Samsung ICR18650-22B with capacities (Vapcell S4+) ranging from 1,818 –1,885 mAh.

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