Yes, I have said this I believe at least twice already lol!
Chances are, how many of us here have lights still in their boxes, just tested, some even unopened?
I even have untested brand-new chargers!
Again, enjoy what’s in your inventory…while we wait for the next Paypal.
Put me on the list for one!
If SST-20 4000K 95 CRI is an option, that’s what I’d prefer!
is it better in a triple optic vs the samsung then ?
Much higher throw, comparable to the XP-L HI, and much better red color rendition.
If you thought a R9050 emitter made everything look great, then an R9580 emitter is an absolute beauty outside.
Agreed!
ok sounds like a good choice if the samsung cant be sourced.
This may sound stupid, but what exactly do R9050 and R9580 refer to? I understand CRI, color temp, and tint binning, but I haven’t been able to find an explanation of these R values.
Basically, R means rating. Here are the numbers for say, an SST-20 95CRI.
R9580:
R95: CRI rating of 95 ran at 1A current.
R80: R9 rating of 80 minimum ran at 1A current. Basically how well reds are reproduced.
LEDs have quite a bit of trouble reproducing reds, so a high R9 rating(above 80), means it is guaranteed to reproduce reds very well.
It is specific naming of the Nichia company, R stands (I think) for rendering, 90 is minimal 90CRI, 50 is the R9 value (bright red rendering)
That makes perfect sense. Thank you both! I knew about R9 values, but didn’t know this was simply shorthand for CRI+R9.
Each LED manufacturer has their own style of bin codes. We are used to Cree, at least I am, so these other companies bin codes are a bit Greek to me. Lol
Well I’m a little confused about this R* code as well, the SST-20 is made by Luminus, and it doesn’t appear anywhere on their datasheet. Luminus calls this the SST-20-W40H (W=White, 40=4000k, H=95 CRI).
Personally I prefer a warm balanced light with less of an emphasis on total output. I find that cooler beams, while brighter to a machine, are less useful to me when I need them. You notice this especially outdoors, around dirt and trees. With a typical 60-70 CRI light everything is washed out and I lose a sense of depth. Trees look almost 2-dimensional.
Obviously, if you’re going for “pocket rocket” lumen records I think you’ll want to stick with an XP-L or something, but you’re not going to get a lot of throw out of a m-up light anyway.
Well, i am not impressed by SST20 , i just put one from KD in an A6 and had high hopes, since everybody seems to hype them, which made me think, let’s try one.
Now that i switched on the light with a fresh 30Q it was quite disappointing, i got hot very quick and the sheer output with the A6 driver and 20AWG seems to be lower then a stock S2+ SMO XPL Hi on 3A. (With the original thin wires…)
Maybe there is a better emitter available when the FW3A finally is available.
You mean,
Me too, now that the end looks near, where do I sign up?!
Of course. It’s a 95CRI 4000k small die emitter compared to a larger 70CRI average XP-L HI.
HAHAHAHA EXACTLY!
@Yokiami, you must realise that the SST-20 has a XP-G size die, and the output is similar to a modern XP-G2 too, so it will throw quite well but it has not the output of leds with XM-size dies, like XP-L, SST-40, LH351D and Luxeon V.
True, but t.b.h. i prefer a 219C which is the same size, if i compare the SST20 A6 (A6 driver with 20 AWG) vs a 219c S2+ (stock 2,8A driver).
I dont see why the SST20 is hyped that much.
I’m very pleased with the SST-20’s in my D4 and D4S. I would love to have it in the FW3A with its
higher regulated levels.