Put me on the list for one!
If SST-20 4000K 95 CRI is an option, that’s what I’d prefer!
is it better in a triple optic vs the samsung then ?
Much higher throw, comparable to the XP-L HI, and much better red color rendition.
If you thought a R9050 emitter made everything look great, then an R9580 emitter is an absolute beauty outside.
Agreed!
ok sounds like a good choice if the samsung cant be sourced.
This may sound stupid, but what exactly do R9050 and R9580 refer to? I understand CRI, color temp, and tint binning, but I haven’t been able to find an explanation of these R values.
Basically, R means rating. Here are the numbers for say, an SST-20 95CRI.
R9580:
R95: CRI rating of 95 ran at 1A current.
R80: R9 rating of 80 minimum ran at 1A current. Basically how well reds are reproduced.
LEDs have quite a bit of trouble reproducing reds, so a high R9 rating(above 80), means it is guaranteed to reproduce reds very well.
It is specific naming of the Nichia company, R stands (I think) for rendering, 90 is minimal 90CRI, 50 is the R9 value (bright red rendering)
That makes perfect sense. Thank you both! I knew about R9 values, but didn’t know this was simply shorthand for CRI+R9.
Each LED manufacturer has their own style of bin codes. We are used to Cree, at least I am, so these other companies bin codes are a bit Greek to me. Lol
Well I’m a little confused about this R* code as well, the SST-20 is made by Luminus, and it doesn’t appear anywhere on their datasheet. Luminus calls this the SST-20-W40H (W=White, 40=4000k, H=95 CRI).
Personally I prefer a warm balanced light with less of an emphasis on total output. I find that cooler beams, while brighter to a machine, are less useful to me when I need them. You notice this especially outdoors, around dirt and trees. With a typical 60-70 CRI light everything is washed out and I lose a sense of depth. Trees look almost 2-dimensional.
Obviously, if you’re going for “pocket rocket” lumen records I think you’ll want to stick with an XP-L or something, but you’re not going to get a lot of throw out of a m-up light anyway.
Well, i am not impressed by SST20 , i just put one from KD in an A6 and had high hopes, since everybody seems to hype them, which made me think, let’s try one.
Now that i switched on the light with a fresh 30Q it was quite disappointing, i got hot very quick and the sheer output with the A6 driver and 20AWG seems to be lower then a stock S2+ SMO XPL Hi on 3A. (With the original thin wires…)
Maybe there is a better emitter available when the FW3A finally is available.
You mean,
Me too, now that the end looks near, where do I sign up?!
Of course. It’s a 95CRI 4000k small die emitter compared to a larger 70CRI average XP-L HI.
HAHAHAHA EXACTLY!
@Yokiami, you must realise that the SST-20 has a XP-G size die, and the output is similar to a modern XP-G2 too, so it will throw quite well but it has not the output of leds with XM-size dies, like XP-L, SST-40, LH351D and Luxeon V.
True, but t.b.h. i prefer a 219C which is the same size, if i compare the SST20 A6 (A6 driver with 20 AWG) vs a 219c S2+ (stock 2,8A driver).
I dont see why the SST20 is hyped that much.
I’m very pleased with the SST-20’s in my D4 and D4S. I would love to have it in the FW3A with its
higher regulated levels.
The 219C does not have the same emitter area as the SST-20. They’re in the same size package (as are the XP-L and the LH351D), but the actual area that emits light differs between these emitters. Smaller tends to be more throwy (candela per lumen) and to produce more absolute throw, but at a cost to output.
In terms of emitter area, LH351D > XP-L > 219C > SST-20.