New WildTrail (former LuckSun) BLF-D80v2 Sale is open.

Looking nice Lexel. 7135 X1 and X5. Sorry for doubting. Bistro is still a nice firmware and suits my preference for (relative) simplicity. Configure once, then just use.

I’d buy lots of these (in 17mm :wink: )

I know 19.5mm is a stange size, I hoped for 20mm, but LS seems to max. that size without changes on the battery tube
but for Mods 17mm is for buck- or boostdrivers not ideal

I want to ask something about the Threads.
The old D80 has a very fine thread. You have to screw the tailcap really on. Not 1 or 2 turns. Would it be interesting to ask for something like this?

they sent me dxf files so its now 19.2 diameter

Still doesn’t make sense not to machine it to match the lens. The weight addition will be negligible. The machining time will be negligible. It’s a CNC, not a knee mill and the old step-and-cut.

:+1: Completely agree. Something of this size with aluminum material cannot get too heavy.

The step-cut not only reduces the weight (even if just a little). It also should be sized to make a shelf for adding a spacer and optic for triples, quads, etc.

Weirder and weirder. Sounds like they really don’t want to do it with conventional dimensions. Or whoever is designing the head is inexperienced in the conventions, just trying to make it look OK on the CAD screen without considering the implications.

Not very mod-friendly, nor desirable as a host.

Suggestion: lay it out for 17mm, just add more ground ring around the edge to fit this thing, however it eventually turns out. Be it 19.2mm, or 20, or whatever, routed out to suit.

I like the hole in the middle, allows head spring bypass straight to LED + wire, in case they use an unsatisfactory spring. I would prefer that they retain the stud instead, it is electrically and mechanically superior to any spring.

Then please sell me some routed out to 17mm.

Please do not bash on LS when it is not justified! They are hearing us and they are asking about things we discuss here.
The max driver size now is 19,2mm limited by the tube diameter. So it would be possible to go with 17-19,2mm for the driver (nothing is set in stone for now).
But they asked what people want and what makes sense. And to change the driver to 20mm they would have to make a new tube (slightly bigger).
We are talking about it and they check if it is possible and what it would cost. Also i asked if we could upgrade the threads.
Now they use a very fine one. Like most newer and better flashlights it would be nice to go with square threads. Less wear and less prone to damage if something like dirt comes on the threads.

The fine thread on the tail does not help with the loosening of the RH threaded switch PCB retaining ring, too easy to apply a great deal of pressure/friction at this interface. A coarser square-cut thread would be great. An LH threaded ring is also desirable, so that it tightens instead of loosening when the tail cap is removed.

This problem can happen straight away, or after a period of actual use. Never knowing whether the tail assembly is going to come apart, or just come loose and intermittent, each time you change the cell is not confidence-inspiring. My bodge was to thread-lock it together.

Masses of discussion on the original thread, maybe read it completely, in case there are some lessons to be learned there that may have been forgotten or never addressed.

Not bashing LS, but I have struggled with the non-standard driver cavity on mine. having had to file down an adapter PCB, and the driver, just to fit a 17mm one to replace the original. Tedious. Just saying.

One of these:

https://www.fasttech.com/products/1138202

Alternative would have been to solder copper wire around the edge of the driver to expand it, but that would have been mechanically and electrically poor.

Also be aware that the driver cavity is fully anodised, in fact everything is, except for the faces of the tube. There is no current path to the driver or tube, it is reliant on contact through the driver retaining ring. No problem, it works well as long as the retaining ring makes a good contact with the driver ground ring. But there are quite a few such critical interfaces in series in this torch, relying on perfect contact at each.

Other torches do things differently, e.g. masking off anodising to ensure solid contact through the tail/tube/head for the important -ve cell current path.

They are still in the design process, so dont overshoot if something is not right

Almost every light depends on the retaining ring for proper contact to the battery tube,
even if threads and driver resting ring are not anodized on the head the contact is not very reliable if retaining ring gets loose

using the head and tailcap retaining ring as direct contact needs for sure threads that are not in the same clockwise direction,
of course other lights have the tube always rest on an aluminum rim not the retaining rings itself are better because it eliminates the loosening problem

I never realized before that the tailcap of the D80 has the retaining ring contact the tube when it is tightened down, even though I have one. :+1: I had a look and sure enough it does. Several other lights I looked inside have the tube contact a machined face in the cap. The retaining ring is smaller and does not contact the tube body at all.

It seems to me that if they really want to make an improved version of the D80 they should redesign the tailcap retaining ring. No wonder some manufacturers like to glue parts together. :frowning:

Then while thay are at it redesign the head to use a 17mm driver.

I like the feel and appearance of the D80, but the lights I use most have side switches which has moved my two D80’s to the closet queen shelf. Appearance was what made me desire the D80 in the first place.

One question.
If we go for max throw in a new D80, would it be interesting to check also for very narrow TIR optics?

I think the 20mm driver is a good option. Yes i mostly use 17mm drivers but the BLF driver fit in the old D80 fine because the retaining design is so wide it holds it good. I found the Sofirn drivers dont fit they are to small they are supposed to be 17mm but more like 16.4mm i think. When you are talking about a few mm difference for a driver it shouldn’t really matter. If its to big you can sand it down a few mm most times and if its to small use an adapter ring?

So fare the light looks awesome keep up the work!

Are you back at home TheOnlyDocc? Started modding the X6?

No not jet. Today they did another CT scan. If the results are ok i can go home on Sunday. If not i have to stay another week. But i can not wait to sleeb in my own bed again (allone ) without anybody snoring the complete night :+1:
The nurses think i am not right in my head :smiley: . I have my Vernier Caliper in my side cabinet and also the old D80.
And 2 times the week my neighbour visits and brings me all the nice things that arrived for me. 80% flashlight related stuff

So next week they will have a talk with the factory engineer.
There is a lot on the list

- Tailcap change so it can Tailstand

- Threads change to square more corse threads (and if possible double o-rings for better sealing)

- Changes to make space for 20mm driver (slightly bigger tube)

- Changes at the retaining rings to make sure they do not come loose (at the head possible LH threads or removing the outer lipp so the Aluminium makes contact)

- Internal changes of the head to help with heatpath and dissipation (thicker shelf, walls, deeper finns)

- New driver designt by Lexel with Bistro UI

- Upgraded reflector to get best throw

- Small adjustments on the front to get better sealing

- New springs (similar to the blue springs)

  • Making sure unprotected and long protected batterys fit (tube length)

Have i forgotten anything?

Sounds like a brand new flashlight

If the tube needs to be bigger for 20mm driver, why not just make it 21700 or 20700 compatible.

Agree for 21700

Discussion of LED choices and interaction with reflector fine-tuning. Important to get optimum results.

Double o-rings not needed, a single one seals well, done properly. This is not a dive torch.

Retaining ring in head should remain clockwise. The tube is rarely removed from the head, and when tightened up also tightens the ring, if somehow is a little loose.

It is the tailcap that needs a left-handed ring, and/or redesign so the tube bottoms on the metal of the cap, rather than the ring. This is the piece that is unscrewed every time the cell is changed, and tends to loosen. Un-anodised Al to Al contact works here, the constant use keeps the surfaces clean.

Better thread engagement between tube and head, for mechanical and thermal reasons. Square coarser thread not actually necessary here, it should rarely be touched. In fact undesirable, the head should be on tighter than the tail, so if you grasp the head rather than the tube whilst unscrewing the tail, it is the tail that loosens.

Consider masking off anodising from these threads, and inside the head where the driver rests, for an additional current path.

20mm driver is good. If Lexel’s is good I won’t want to change it. It was the original poor one that had to go, and at that time the obvious swap was to a 17mm one, at best a marginal fit, in my case I chose to use a 20mm adapter and file things down to fit.

Short (18350, 16340 etc.) tube option.

Its sounding good.

Hope all goes well for your scan.