So did you strip it with the usual? Like drain cleaner etc? Thar looks really nice. I’ll probably leave it stock. If/when I drop it I’ll strip it.
Found it, my last one. Sliced it to close to the die and put it in the RRT-01, its fourth led today 
And now I’m happy. The beam is less ringy (but not 100% perfect), and while the SST-20 led had some tint-nuances inside the hotspot, this hotspot has a nice even tint.
While the 3000K SST-20 gave just 420 lumen, the output is back up to 615 lumen.
The tint of the hotspot:
At ~20lm low mode: CCT=3500K, duv +0.0021, CRI95 R9=80
At highest mode: CCT=3600K, duv –0.0001, CRI93 R9=70
So the tint quality is very good, much better than the sliced XP-L2, but of course slightly below the SST-20.
I think this is the best led I can think of for this nice flashlight, but there may be better ones in the future.
Yes, Just drain cleaner and a brush.
Indeed probably best to wait till you scratch your light. The stock anodising was quite nice, but I just had to do something with the light.
Btw. The slots work well with 1.5x6mm and 1.5x5mm trits, so 11mm total.
Too bad on short on 1.5x6mm. Time for another mixglo.com order…
Nice Djozz. Im staying with the sst. As I really like the tint and don’t mind the rings in use, but I might try the LH351D in it one day.
Djozz, what was the led before you sliced it. I see you tested it at about 3500k after the slice but what was it before, 4000k?
Or did I miss the info somewhere.
I’m using the 4000k from AEDe goup buy second batch. Just wondering if I should slice mine.
When I have a light that I like, I want to know a lot about it. I measured some currents on the lowest modes:
*With the ring clicked off: 27 micro-amps (4.5 years to drain your 1100mAh 18350)
*With the ring clicked on but no light yet: still 27 micro-amps
*Once it emits the slightest bit of light: a base-level of 9.7 milli-amps appears, going up when ramping up. So the max runtime, however subsubsublumen low you go, will never exceed about 5 days.
So when everything is asleep the current is really low, no need to mechanically lockout the flashlight (which is just as well because there is no easy way to do that). Once the circuitry wakes up it consumes 9.7mA on top of what goes to the led, which is not the lowest I have seen, i.e. the BLF A6 circuitry consumes 2.6 mA.
Edit: current on max, with LH351D led if that matters, is now 3.3A
It was a 4000K 90CRI LH351D from led4power. I have had that led from the first AEDe group buy too and I did not notice a different tint between the AEDe and led4power version, (which was an impression, I could not actually measure tints at the time).
I sliced that led before, and mind that slicing costs about 20% output.
So are those slots too narrow for 2mm? I was thinking if it can take those, just boring out a little at both ends to get it up to 10.5 mm (a little room for adhesive buffer) would work. But if not, it would require some special apparatus to bore out a wider straight line across the whole slot.
Some guy on CPF said he needed to make them deeper. I have some spare 1.5x5mm so this is a good use for them. I also don’t want to grind anything.
Hi Clemence, are you still planning on making something high cri available with this light? I’m holding off on buying one as I’m not modding savey and wouldn’t be happy with the stock led. Thanks in advance!
Can’t give confirmation until i receive mine. My order from BG delayed. Shipped already should be here within for a week or so.
[Clemence]
Having fiddled with different leds in the RRT01 yesterday, I’m not sure if this flashlight is happy with small leds like the E21A. If it really drives them at over 3A that is over the max for this led, that has its sweetspot at 2A in my opinion. Further, it seems that the smaller the led, the larger beam artifacts become (sharper rings in the spill, uneven hotspot), this light could then do with a OP reflector instead of smooth.
But time will tell 
You already know he will try his entire collection of TIRs…
and flat white too?.
Thanks! You did a great job. I have a Dremel and some bits that can cut metal, but I don’t have an apparatus for ensuring a straight line. I think I’d likely go the route that Gunga took, to use 1.5 mm. I’m not sure there’s a 1.5 x 6 mm out there, but if so it would be interesting to combine the two. Since there would be a definite delineation between the 2 vials, would be an opportunity to do alternating colors within same line.
It’s a triangle there is no inside and outside
I always found the RRT01’s low-mode efficiency a little disappointing. It does the lowest levels I’ve seen on any flashlight, but its power use is unusually high. If I recall correctly, 9.7 mA is enough to run my D4 at, um… well, I suppose I should just measure it to find out. … 2.8 lumens. And at the lowest mode (~0.2 lm), it’s only 1.7 mA.
So with an 1150 mAh 18350 cell, the maximum runtime on those two is about 5 days vs 28 days.
Agreed. The light could really benefit from one. I had some TIR’s from Convoy’s Ali store. They are bit too small in diameter and a not quite tall enough. I made one work but it’s not an ideal fit. A friend found some TIR’s that are a few mm’s bigger in diameter and height. I will see how they fit when they get here. For now DCFix has made it quite enjoyable but am looking forward to trying the larger TIR’s.