Got the Vero29 to max at 70.5V @ 2.43A… If I’m reading the current vs. luminous flux charts right I should be right around 25K lumens… Will try to take some outdoor shots this weekend.
Did another test with just one 5200 mAh 3S LiPo. Still achieved 66.6V(!) @ 1A. According to Bridgelux’s charts that should produce around 10k lumens!
So now I know this works, I’ll get a cheapie 250W CV/CC boost converter to run it. This 900W one is a bit big. The IceLED heatsink just so happens to fit in 4” PVC pipe so making a housing should be pretty easy. It does end up weighing a bit more but I don’t think that’s too much a concern for its intended uses. Already have ideas for making vehicle mounting and powering, that would still be easily removed for handheld or tripod use.
As to dimming… I’ve mulled over this for a while. Really not much of anything I could find in the 60-72VDC range. Then after looking through my miscellaneous parts I find these DC motor speed controllers - basically a variable current drive. I hooked it up to the output of the boost converter, and voila! Dimming! Only thing is that this adds considerable bulk.
So I’m back to the TaskLED HyperBoost. Since they recommend a max 7A input current, I should be able to use 6 18650s easily, but I thought I read documentation that the max amount of cells in series that can be used is 5? I know VoB used 8 in the GT mod; I don’t know enough to know why that limitation exists…
NOTE: Motor speed controller NOT in these pics…
You’ll have no problem using up to a 10S lithium ion battery pack with the hyperboost.
Thanks for that… I’d like to use at least 8S 18650s… though the only ones I have now are some Sony VTC6s. Would those work?
Yes of course.
How will you be connecting them together though? Spotweld? Battery holder?
I’d like to use battery holders because I have them, and it would seem easier for me to pop them out and throw them in my charger. The holders I have are the ones that the cells snap in, with metal tabs not springs. My thoughts were to mount the holders 4 a side on a custom milled circuit board, then just have something like an XT60 connector at one end to plug into.
Would like to just buy a 10S LiPo but then I’d have to buy a charger as well as my charger will only do 2S or 3S.
Technically, these are leaf springs, but I know what you mean.
Yes thanks… Being I’m not trying to yank 15-30A out of these batteries they should be fine… no?
Yeah, as long as you don’t exceed like 5A continuously from the cells.
Then I suppose I’ll need 10S then, otherwise if I ran 8S I just might exceed 5A…
Well, you could just run a 20AWG wire across the contacts, that will give you enough current capability no problem.
Sounds cool… Thanks again for the input!
Dudeguy confirmed for me a while back that the hyperboost could handle 12s.
I have two HyperBoosts. As of yet untested. But I like that a 50k pot can be wired directly to it for dimming - which is an important feature for me. I don’t need full tilt all the time, but it’s good to have.
With my test rig, I found that the Vero29 will produce light even at around .06A. Pretty cool.
I think if I can get my hands on an extension tube for my Convoy L6, I’m going to put a Vero29 in it. I’ll have to cut down a Lenina to fit in the head but it would be brighter than any other L6, probably cheaper than my 21x LH351D concept and more unique.
Would be cool to see this; have been thinking along similar lines as well, though not sure what the balance would be between runtime and output…
I’m still missing some dimensions and models but I suspect a Vero29 won’t fit but I think I could make a V22 work with a LEDiL FN14637_OLIVIA-S
I take it back. Olivia won’t fit and the holder for the V22 is the same size as a Vero29 so there is no advantage there.
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Looks like the best option is to turn down the Lenina to fit. The bad news is that the whole thing will probably easily overheat, it probably needs a copper tapered plug for the COB and assembly will be a royal pain.
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Then again, if it was easy, it wouldn’t be any fun.
I just got a batch of CAD models from LEDiL and the Vero29//Lenina adapter won’t fit in the L6. The only option I’m seeing would be to modify the mount and then glue or tape it directly to the Vero29. However, it would also block the screws I was planning to use to mount everything into the light. I suppose I could drill hex driver access holes in the plate and then the screws would be captured….