Can you link what type of bit you used to do that? I have a dremel but dont use it enough to know what 500 bits work best for what purpose.
Great to know you didn’t have to bore out the width any further. So it’s not just width but also depth that’s sufficient to fit the 2mm wide vial while still remaining below surface? I agree exposing the bare aluminum might actually help just a little with reflecting the tritium light.
I think I got mine on ebay but this one is exactly like mine by the dimensions they give.
https://www.the-carbide-end-mill-store.com/m5/955-4059—htc-955-4059-1-5mm-carbide-ball-end-mill-standard-length-4-flute-gp-30-uncoated.html
1.5mm cutting diameter 4 flute 5mm flute depth with a 3mm shank ball nose. I don’t use dremel stuff because their not as good as of a bit or end mill made for a actual mill. I have a mill so this works for both purpose for me. These last for a very long time, carbide is good stuff. I have had this one since this project here.
I just found more info in that thread. Those pics contain the part number and show the actual bit, the one in the link above doesn’t show a actual pic. You really wouldn’t have to have a ball nose just a 4 flute end mill with the dimensions above.
If you could find a 2x10mm trit, it would drop right in, add glue and done. They make that size, It’s just no one can find them for sale.
I looked up the part # and found one on ebay. Should be exactly the one I used, you’ll have it for years if not mistreated.
A 2 flute will cut faster but leaves a rough finish. A 4 flute will cut a little slower but leaves a machined finish. Anything with a 1/8 shank diameter should work in a dremel. I have a Proxxon that has a collet that excepts a few different sizes but 1/8 is very common.
Try Jerray at Aliexpress, their carbide products are very nice at cheaper price. Not the cheapest for AE standards but definitely vetter than the majority there.
[Clemence]
There’s a $3 off coupon for Ebay. Min purchase 3.01 or something. Good for stuff like this
thanks for the great info and pics
those NonAnodised slots would look even better with the whole light stripped:
I wonder how it would look if a 1.5x6mm trit was used instead, without removing the anodising in the slots?
anyone have a photo, even just the shorter trits in the stock anodised slots, with no glue yet?
I think I prefer anodised slots, on anodised lights… here is a visual:
(photos clipped from posts by xevious, alchemi and djozz)
That bare aluminum unpolished RRT-01 2019 looks soooooOOOO pretty! 
here is the info on the old model… Im guessing it has not changed, but others will need to confirm…:
I think this means new model parasitic drain is half as big as before:
Im confused by figuring out an apples to apples comparison… selfbuilt says 55uA on 750mAh LiIon lasts 2.9 years, for the old model
djozz says 27uA on 1100mAh LiIon lasts 4.5 years, for the new model
seems the new model drains half as fast, yes?
if I used djozz values and reduce the battery to 750mAh it comes out to 3 years, essentially the same as selfbuilt
which confirms Clemences observation that selfbuilt mistakenly calculated runtime to a 0volt LiIon battery, while it appears djozz correctly calculated to 50% drained…
am I on track?
fwiw, Ive tried using a super low level as a locator on my old model RRT-01, overnight, and it seemed to use power way too fast.
so this makes sense to me:
and for that reason I now use a glow ring on the tail of my old model RRT-01 that has no trit slots. I can see it fine, when I wake in the dark, even when I do not bother to precharge the glow when I go to bed
thumbs up on glow tape for old models
Ti Jetbeam image from a post by Archibald Tuttle
here are my Eye10 and old model RRT-01, my cat always wants to be in my photos 
and thumbs up on trits for the new RRT-01:
For the new RRT-01, I think I could be happy with 1.5x6mm trits, with intact anodising.
What do others think?
jon_slider the quote from selfbuilt says 30ua from a RCR. That’s only 3ua difference from djozz 27ua, which could be just a difference in meters or slightly different components.
With the test I have seen from 123a batterys and seeing how the RRT01 has no low voltage protection, I think with a 1400mah capacity, a 123a would last a lot longer than 50%. The light might be pretty dim towards the end but it should still produce usable light.
Discharge tests and capacity measurement of CR123A lithium manganese dioxide cells at high discharge rates At .055ma drain the capacity would be way higher than at 700ma shown in the graphs.
Thanks!
I got lost in the Alphabet soup 
very helpful, as always
much appreciated!
Put the trits in today. Had to machine the ends and had to make the slots a bit wider and deeper to fit my 12x2 trits nicely. So if you want to be 100% sure your trits will fit without work, go for 1,5mm trits.
12x2 looks better for me
[Clemence]
Looks sweet Geuzzz :+1:
I didn’t have any trouble with the 2mm width, only the 12mm length. Where did you source your trits from?
You can see in the pics where I didnt actual grind the sides of the slot, there still a little bit of the anodizing left at the top of the slots.
I did test fit the trits before I ever ground anything, one end down in the slot and the other sticking out, slightly too long.
I purchased mine from Fasttech.
The old style RRT-01 came yesterday from Aushunteronline, jon_slider it’s all your fault. I really like it jon_slider, it is a great light just like you keep saying. There’s things I prefer on the new RRT and some on the old RRT. Wow, if they could just combine the advantages of both in one light, now that be one light I’d have to own.
The old RRT01 was quite expensive compared but I really like rotary lights and have looked to buy one for some time. That’s the reason I bought the new RRT01, I didn’t think there was anymore old RRT01’s left in the world, that someone would part with anyway. Then in this thread back at post #214 wynand linked a website with brand new in the box, old style RRT-01’s.
Thanks for the link wynand 
.
So now I’m broke but, I’m pretty tickled that I now own a few of my dream lights. Big thanks to those who have helped make it possible. 
A few observations (having only owned a V11R + this):
- Lower lows but it takes a few MM past “off” detent to even see light
- Mine only has detents for off and turbo, if there is anything in between I don’t notice
- The ring is just a little “gritty” but it’s light weight and easy to turn, by comparison the V11R is not gritty at all but the grease is thick and heavy and the ring is slimmer so harder overall to use
- The clip is too long, like jon_slider mentioned, it overlaps the ring so you subconsciously spin the light in your hand to align it
- Beam is ringy for sure, I think it wont bother me too much though but I will buy a replacement if someone finds a light OP match
- There is a difference in output before and after the turbo detent. I thought I read someone said theirs is the same but maybe misremembering
- The extra weight is noticeable but the way everyone described it I expected more. it’s reasonable
- Extra output and 18350 support is awesome
Yay!
I Blame MascaratumB
he started me on the RRT-01 hunt
curious as I dont have the new version what sort of pros and cons you notice for each model
also curious if you got lucky to get the RRT-01 old model with the short clip, that I much prefer…
and yes, since I decided the RRT-01 is better than my HDS… it has been costing me money… Sold the HDS,
bought a NiteyeTiC modded to triple (on left w short clip, like my RRT-01)
I returned the TiC because my Keepower 18350 do not fit that model, they fit the others fine…
and a Jetbeam TCR-1 (being modded to sw45), the long clip has Got To Go!
and an Eye10 modded to triple sw35, that has the short clip I prefer:
Plus I have an Eye10 that has the long clip…
eeek! $lippery $lope
and now Im talking to Clemence about a High CRI RRT-01 w trits and no Ano… blame Geuzzz for that one… lol
now Im on the hunt for short clips