XM-L T5

yep the forever substitute of the P7´s

And with better tint!

The current measurement is as measured : I cant measure current and light output at the same time [ Id need 3 hands ]

So it may not be entirely right , current may be slightly higher in use [ less MM ]

Unfortunately the A20 unscrews in the middle ... This is only as a guide , sorry , I dont expect it to be 100% , but just to give you an idea ...

Its getting dark now , Ive charged up some 18650's for my SSC P7's , so lets check out the beams ...

But yeah , a bad light for matching current to output , I should have some XM-L T6's in a day or two , so I will build some drop ins for my L2 Hosts

Then I can measure current and output at the same time ...

Beams shortly

620 LM form 1*16430 light.... The world just went bananas.....

Very nice mod!

http://www.makeagif.com/91KWYL

Try this , beams as gif ....

Its cloudy , so way to much city lights [ reflected from clouds ] , so very bad conditions for beams , but hopefully you get an idea ...

That's a neat way of doing beam shots, but can you slow down the frame rate a bit? I don't have quite enough time to look at the picture *and* read the caption. Maybe 2 seconds per frame?

can post them right here one by one?

is cutter selling them with 14mm boards yet? cant find their board size on their website

Nice GIF, I'm glad I got the larger reflector of the C8, even though several of those XM-L lights have literally the exact same beam shot images on KD. :/ The A20 is not quite big enough even for a flooder, but DANG can it flood. :D Awesome.

Cutter has 14mm boards ...

Posted a link [ first post ] for full sized pictures if anyone wants them ... Will try for a slower gif

http://www.makeagif.com/xrvpJ2

Here it is slower

Actually the little light is so bright [ spill is brighter ] it makes it look like it has more flood .. [ I guess it has brighter flood ]

+ the flood is so bright , it makes the center look darker [ optical illusion ] , I guess the camera cant see what the human eye can ...

Thats why I posted a link for the larger images if anyone wants them ..

Unfortunately I dont have a digital SLR with timed exposure , so the pictures do LIE a little ...

But the little XM-L T5 is hot stuff .. Just cant wait for the T6's and hopefully drive them much harder ..

I might buy another T5 , the tint is just perfect for me [ and see how hard it can go in a P60 host ]

XML rules !

But just to say , to the naked eye , it was just awesome , so much light from a EDC , its a sight to behold ...

I have a A20B on the mail. I were planning to use it as is but I can transplant its R2 to a thrower and an XM-L or XR-G into A20B. How does it mod? It requires 14mm emitters at most I belive, am I right?

I don't have a 14mm XM-L right now but a 12.8mm R5 is also on the mail. I wonder which one would be most efficient at something like 1.2A current to LED.

14mm would probably be the go ..

XM-L is the most efficient , then Xp-G ...

First thing to watch for = Is the emitter glued down ? Might make it hard to remove without destroying it ...

Then you need to glue the XM-L in place [ thermal epoxy ]

Do you need a new driver ??? or do you wish to use the original ..

Soldering ?

Checking for shorts [ XP-G / XM-L design lends itself to shorting , especially with reflectors that press down ]

Moding is a learning experience , be prepared to break stuff ...

I'll better reserve XP-G leds to 2xAA lights as boost should work better with a lower Vf. I guess any 18650 light can unleash the potential of an XM-L. I plan to start with something with more space, like an UltraFire C8 or a bigger TR-1200 body. Ordered my insulators, thermal epoxy, 2.8 linear and 3A buck drivers, empty P60 drop-ins, Dremel tools and so on... :)

I did see somewhere on CPF that an XP-G R5 was brighter than an (unstated bin, probably T5) XM-L until you went past 1500mA. But my memory may be at fault. The XM-L is more efficient at any given current, but not necessarily brighter. It is when the XM-L becomes much less efficient that it gets really bright. The same is true for most LEDs

I don't think that's true about the output. Cree determines the bins at 350mA. So a higher bin will always be more efficient and put out more total lumens at pretty much any current than a lower bin. Now the brightness of the LED die itself (and therefore the throw) may not increase for the XM-L until you get past what the XP-G is rated for which is 1500mA. That's more of a lumens/mm2 thing though.

That is not quite true. XM-L's are binned @ 700mA

I went looking for the post at the Other Place and gave up as they've rearranged it in a way I do not find useful. I gave up on searching as a bunch of patients needed seeing. Wonder how many threads "got lost" this time?

I've no idea why but a lot of websites I look at daily have been redesigned in the last few weeks.

Nearly all of them are now worse - except here. Personally I'd prefer slightly smaller text but given that a pinching gesture on the mouse will fix this, it really isn't a problem

Yeah, you're right. That seems inconsistent on Cree's part. So really the XM-L T6 has about the same output at 1500mA as an XP-G S4 would. And the XM-L T5 is about equal to an XP-G S3.