[♛ FreemeGB] Fireflies E07 7* Nichia/ SST20/ XP-L HI Emitters 21700 Flashlight Group Buy -【 New Copper+Titanium 】

I am interested in copper and titanium body, I would prefer black or grey body, it would look good with the copper head.
Anyway I am mot sure which emitter I want yet, there is a lot of fanboyism, people buy nichia and not even considering the other option.

for 4000k options the fact is still CREE XPL HI V2 5A offer superior thermal performance, it does not heat up as fast as sst20 or nichia options. Also the CREE XPL HI V2 5A option gives 2000 more lumens over sst20 and nichia.

Not sure about the CRI rating on the CREE XPL HI V2 5A, but considering better thermal performance and a lot higher lumen output it might be worth to sacrifice some CRI, I am not even sure how much it will be noticeable in reality. The big difference in lumpen output difference might be more noticeable then the CRI difference.

the E07 has been the hottest flashlight for months now yet there is very little pictures of beamshots etc, I am surprised not a flasholoic have done a camparison yet comparing all emitter options, with beamshots, and mesrements how much throw and candela and lumen and thermal performance.

E07 biggest weakness is thermal problems, so it makes a lot more sense to sacrifice CRI to choose the CREE XPL HI V2 5A option.
But I still want to know more about the emitter to compare it.

I want to see the difference in candela, cause I use a lot indoors, I think my Manker MK14 is kind of perfect for that but lumen output could be more powerful and little bit more throw so maybe SST20 and Cree 4000k options will give better balance between flood and throw but I need to see with my own eyes before I decide, cause the 219C is very good to lit up indoor rooms, I simply just want see how big the difference is, so I am disspointed to see there is no one who have done compariosn, cause 99% of all people buy the nichia model because of the high CRI number, both nicha and sst20 have big thermal problems compared to the CREE options, and the lumen output is about 40% worse.

Well, it’s actually hard to notice a difference between 4000 and 6000 lumens due to how the eye works.

It’s super easy to notice a difference between a high CRI emitter and a low CRI emitter.
It’s absolutely amazing the 1st time you see it, especially outside.

Low CRI LEDs like the XP-L HI will make everything look flat, but something like the 219C, and especially the SST-20/219B will make everything look absolutely gorgeous like the late afternoon sunlight.

Also, the difference in brightness between the 4000k 95CRI SST-20 and XP-L HI 70CRI might not be as apparent since the SST-20 is a very throwy little LED, so it won’t be as disadvantaged as you might think.

Then again, if you want maximum throw and the same amount of heat as the XP-L HI, just get the SST-20 5000k.

Well My experience with flashlights is kind of limited, but I can use my Manker E14 II as reference, it has the nichia 219C, I really like the flood of it, for such candela value you really need atleast 4000 lumens to get kind of more throw.

Yes I always wanted to know more about it, why the eye would not notice 2000 Lumen difference, considering my E14 II is about 2000 lumens it feels hard to consider that I would not notice such increase, or do you mean I will mostly notice it in throw and not such much in the nearfield ?

Yes I understand the importance of CRI, I guess I will have to invest more research in finding the difference between CRI 70 and CRI 95.

With the E07 the reality is that it will throttle down a lot in lumens, so the CREE alternatives will give more headroom, so when the SST20 and nichia will go down about 1300 lumens while the Cree will not step down as low, you have to consider this also, before worshiping CRI only, its all about balance the benifits and drawbacks. That is what I dont like so much with choosing the CRI options that you will end up with a flashlight that will only deliver half of the turbo capacity for most of the time. Maybe some one had done a review of the CREE emitters and can tell us how much is it will step down with the E07.

That’s the nice thing about the SST-20 though.

It is a super throwy emitter. In fact, for the same light output, it throws 30% better.

And since the XP-L HI throws much farther than the 219C, you can see that the SST-20 throws light much farther than the 219C.

Believe me, the difference is amazing in terms of throw, meaning you don’t have to push the brightness as hard to see stuff, meaning you don’t have as much of a stepdown.

I mean, the Nichia 219C Emisar D4S had 20kcd.
The SST-20 95CRI Emisar D4S has 41kcd.

That is a massive difference.

In contrast, the E14 II is not a very efficient light, and is super floody.

The E07 in contrast, with an SST-20, will throw much farther.

Well I did very recently understand the difference between candela and lumens, this is the biggest misunderstanding with flashlights usually…well I am glad I did find out about it, it really helps me understand more how to choose a flashlight and what to look for.
I am yet to navigate and find the optimal candela value for me, I really like the 180 degree of light that the E14 Puts out, it feels a lot like there is a lightbuld from abouve that light up the area, I also like the beam is very steady, I have the flashlight in my belt since I work as security card, so I do not hold the flashlight in my head, but when I walk there is always constant movements, but because the candela value of the E14 II the beam is very steady, compared to my Sorfirn SF36W with higher candela value the beam will move like crazy for every footsteep I take which is very irritating. I hope the Candela Value of of both SST20 and the Cree 4000 K option with twice the candela value will still be as floody that the beam will not move like crazy when I walk with it clipped to my belt.

so Yes flood is probably most important for me as work as security work cause I work a lot indoors, but outside the E14II and 219C could really need the 30% extra of the SST20 for sure.

and yes the 219B-V1 is 45000K, after been using E14 II with 219C which is 4500K aswell I have conluded that 4000K is probably the sweetspoot for me (I have tried 3000K now with the Sorfirn SF36W and my conclusion is probably its too warm for my taste)

Of course it will be floody.

Just a more usable beam since the SST-20 has 30% more throw than the XP-L HI, which helps offset the lower output somewhat.

I just dont know the difference between 20kcd. and 41kcd. All i know the number is more then twice

20 kcd for an indoor light is very bright, 40 kcd is very very bright. I will not use the E07 indoors at max at all.

Does anyone know the changed that have been made between the first version and now the newly advertised version two of this light. I don’t see any updated info on the Fireflies website.

@noboneshotdog :

And they probably fixed the MCPCB issue.

:+1:

Kcd is broken down as thousand candela, so 20Kcd is 20,000 candela and 40Kcd is 40,000 candela. To figure throw based on candela you multiply x4 then take the square root of that answer to get a calculated throw in meters with a target of the light equivalent of a full moon, or approx 1/4 lux,

So 20Kcd is good for 282.84M throw and 40Kcd is good for 400m in throw. Not twice as far, just iver 1/3 as far. This lets you see that it isn’t linear. This is because it takes 4 times more light to reach twice as far and the candela reading is a measure of intensity, not quantity.

Guys, I used the Emisar D4S as an example for the throw difference between the 219C and SST-20.

I do not know about the real throw of the SST-29 at all.

Optics make the differrnce less noticeable. I got my first SST-20’s in an E07, while the beam profile was pleasant tint shift had me pull that emitter quite fast…

Have any one done a video that shows the difference in beam between the two ?

I have experienced severe issues with my order from Banggood, especially about missing accessories and poor quality, see here:
https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/53669/1695

Now, it already felt happy to read that BG customer service told me they would resend the item to me. Apart from that I understood they were offering me 1000 BG points as a token for the inconvenience caused. So, I replied back to them I would be happy to accept both resending the item and the 1000 BG points.

Now, I got another e-mail that sounds a bit different. Now, they are talking about "the spare part item". Any ideas how to read this? Will they be sending me a complete new flashlight with accessories or just the missing accessories ("the spart part item" does not sound like multiple accessory items)?

it sounds so like they can send the extra stuff that was missing ? they must be able since u are supposed to get all that in the box and u didnt.

Well, if this was the outcome of my complaint they would still ignore the poor quality of my item. I was already surprised when they offered me a new item in the first place as usually I’m used to debate and fight for a little bit of compensation.

What a joke…after promising to resend the E07 (see e-mails above) Banggood now changed their mind and decided to only send me the clip and the o-ring…that’s all. :person_facepalming:

Sorry for the slow follow up. That is correct. You should be good to go with a calibrated thermal sensor and a 55 Celsius limit. It should still step down, but more slowly, and not as far, and the body will get hotter.