Probably asked before, but I cant find it. How difficult it will be to flash modified firmware to FW3A? Can it be done without disassembling and without soldering?
No, sorry. It requires soldering to get the driver out before it can be flashed. Take off the bezel, lens, and optic. Unsolder the LED wires. Unscrew the driver retaining ring. Then the driver should come out where it can be flashed. Repeat everything in reverse to re-assemble.
There isn’t really anywhere to put flashing vias, since both surfaces of the driver are really packed with components. It was originally going to have optical programming, but it turns out that would take several hours to transfer a ROM and it would require removing several features to make room.
The more I see of this, the more I like it. Please put me down for a second one. Then I don’t have to decide between emitter options, I’ll just get one of each! If it helps, the number for my first one is 1995.
Thanks, teacher. The green isn’t great, but as we were saying before, at that low price, it wasn’t too much of a risk. Maybe you will like the throw and tint just using higher levels.
Your welcome cabfrank. Yeah, no doubt at this price it was a true deal. A win/win.
And that is exactly what I am going to do, just use the two higher levels. It actually suits me quite well when the ‘green is gone’.
Even 10% is not horribly bad. But below 10% truly sux…. ‘to me’.
—
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
the green tint at the 0.1%, 1%, & 10% levels kill it for me. It is just downright ugly.
That’s why I don’t like the SST-20 (and LH351D) emitters I’ve tried. I mostly only use low levels, and they don’t look good at those levels. Even when doing CCT mixing to pull the tint pinkward, it still looks greenish in the bottom half of the ramp. The FET portion of the ramp looks nice though.
OTOH, it’s a little weird that you’d see much tint shift on a 8×7135 driver. It should have fairly constant tint across all modes except moon, since they’re all running at the same power with different duty cycles. But I suppose if the pulses have rounded edges instead of being true square waves, you’d still see some tint changes.
When there is less light, our eyes tend to prioritize green wavelengths.
That’s what I’ve noticed, and is a strange phenomenon.
I thought that this occurs at all wavelengths? What I’ve read on the subject is that green is the brightest perceivable color to the human eye under all conditions?
Shaved LH351Ds are quickly becoming my favorite emitter, for single emitter lights at least.
It’s drops the duv to nearly right on the BBL or below – depending on which bin you start with – lowers the CCT just a tad and makes them a bit throwier without any noticeable change in output to my eyes.
I’ve heard the same is true of the SST-20 but that they’re also harder to shave/sand and I haven’t tried either of these emitters in a TIR triple/quad where I think I’d still prefer the SST-20 for a throwier beam.
For a single emitter light the 351D has a great balanced beam profile though. Hitting roughly 700 lumens in a Sofirn SF14 w/4000K bin from Mtn-Elec and the “DOGFART” 5000K has finally made me like my Neutron V3 after swapping out the terribly green and tint-shifting X-PL HD.
Interesting that I don’t see green in my Sofirn C01s on low or high. Green usually irks me like crazy- maybe the optic in this light helps?
Three reasons:
*I suspect that people on BLF overcompensate: if a tint has not the desired rosiness, they have learned to perceive it as greenish
*If compared next to a pink flashlight, it indeed looks green.
*light above the BBL looks uglier in low CRI than in high CRI
One more reason with flashlights in moonlight mode : Purkinje effect
Even if an ideal flashlight has zero tint shift over its different modes, you are going to perceive a tint shift with a particularly low moonlight mode.
Interesting that I don’t see green in my Sofirn C01s on low or high. Green usually irks me like crazy- maybe the optic in this light helps?
Yes, the TIR in the CO1s will likely mix the beam differently than the reflector in the S2+.
Many LED’s, especially in reflectors, have a significant tint difference between the hotspot and the spill, and my experience is this difference gives you a more obvious means of comparison to notice bad tint in part of the beam.
I’d bet if the beam in the S2+ was diffused, the green would be less noticeable even on moonlight.
*light above the BBL looks uglier in low CRI than in high CRI
My experience is the opposite with the 219C. The original 5000K CRI80 is much nicer at similar slightly greenish duvs (~0.0030-0.0040) than the newer CRI90 variants. On a white wall at least.
These are ‘my impressions of this particular SST20 4000K 95+ CRI’, yours may vary.
saypat wrote:
Hi Teacher. I read that the lumen output with the specs your light has is about 600 lumens on high.. Do you think that is about right?
thank you.
patrick
Hi saypat… I would say it is ‘at least’ 600 lumens or a bit better on High.
I see BurningPlayd0h posted some test results & that seems to be about right according to his posted chart.
I can’t get to my ‘Lumen Tube’ at the moment because of some remodeling…. but when I can I’ll measure it & see what I come up with.
—
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
*light above the BBL looks uglier in low CRI than in high CRI
My experience is the opposite with the 219C. The original 5000K CRI80 is much nicer at similar slightly greenish duvs (~0.0030-0.0040) than the newer CRI90 variants. On a white wall at least.
Yeah, the 219C 5000K CRI80 I have is actually pretty okay. It tends to make things look a bit lifeless, but overall it’s reasonably good compared to most LEDs I’ve tried. It doesn’t really look not-white during use, even though a camera tells me it’s greenish.
Username fixed.
Ceilingbounce – flashlight testing and runtime graphs for Android
well if the model name appears in their page it must mean something… i hope not april fools joke
i dont find that funny at all if so..
...where Frugal meets with Flashlight!
つ ◕_◕ ༽つ
that’s cruel
I know. It’s the worst thing I’ve done all week.
Ceilingbounce – flashlight testing and runtime graphs for Android
I have a slightly twisted sense of humor and I knew it was an April fools joke.
You bust me!!
. I forgot it was 1 April…. 
Good one!! Hilarious. ….
. 
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$
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The real twisted part is that little grain of truth that makes a good lie; this is a common way for new products to leak.
I fell for this so hard I had actually started digging through Lumintop’s image hosting site for photos of this mythical FW3A.
No, sorry. It requires soldering to get the driver out before it can be flashed. Take off the bezel, lens, and optic. Unsolder the LED wires. Unscrew the driver retaining ring. Then the driver should come out where it can be flashed. Repeat everything in reverse to re-assemble.
There isn’t really anywhere to put flashing vias, since both surfaces of the driver are really packed with components. It was originally going to have optical programming, but it turns out that would take several hours to transfer a ROM and it would require removing several features to make room.
Yeah, it’s not even the right URL. They’ll probably sell it on Amazon for western customers.
https://www.amazon.com/Lumintop-FW3A-Flashlight-Pocket-Sized/dp/B00137QS28/
The funny thing is, I knew this wasn't the real link. I clicked it anyway, I guess to see where it went. But I suppose you were counting on that.
Edit: quotes ending in links are hard, and harder to fix on mobile.
Old Lumens Contest 2020 - Hand-made light category
ZL SC62(w) | Jaxman E2L XP-G2 5A | Purple S2+ XPL-HI U6-3A | D4 w/ Luxeon V | RRT-01 | Purple FW3A, 4000K SST20 | Baton S1
Boruit D10 w/ Quadrupel Fet+1/Anduril | EagTac D25C Ti | DQG Slim AA Ti | Jaxman E3 | UF-T1 by CRX | Olight S15 Ti | Nitecore EX11.2
L6 XHP70.2 P2 4000K FET+7135 | Jaxman M8 | MF02 | Jaxman Z1 CULNM1.TG | Blue S2+ w/ ML Special | Thrunite T10Tv2
Supfire M6 3xXHP50.2, Sofirn C8F, Unfinished: Sofirn SP70, IYP07/Tool AAA hot-rods, Jetbeam E3S
Others: Nitecore EC23 | Nebo Twyst | Streamlight ProTac 1AA | TerraLux LightStar 100
The more I see of this, the more I like it. Please put me down for a second one. Then I don’t have to decide between emitter options, I’ll just get one of each! If it helps, the number for my first one is 1995.
TK, Good one too but now that song is stuck in my head!
Here are ‘my’ impressions of the SST20 4000K in ‘this’ light.
Surprisingly, I really like the 35% & 100% levels.
However, the green tint at the 0.1%, 1%, & 10% levels kill it for me. It is just downright ugly.
If there was a way to avoid the greenish tint at the lower levels, this would be nice enough.
These are ‘my impressions of this particular SST20 4000K 95+ CRI’, yours may vary.
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$
Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart
Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help??? TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal
I wonder how a slight -green filter would affect the higher modes.
Thanks, teacher. The green isn’t great, but as we were saying before, at that low price, it wasn’t too much of a risk. Maybe you will like the throw and tint just using higher levels.
Your welcome cabfrank. Yeah, no doubt at this price it was a true deal.
A win/win.
And that is exactly what I am going to do, just use the two higher levels. It actually suits me quite well when the ‘green is gone’.
Even 10% is not horribly bad. But below 10% truly sux…. ‘to me’.
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$
Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart
Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help??? TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal
Put me up for one 4000K option please, doen’t matter which led will be used.
virence.com Nichia E21A sw30+sw40 Wizard Pro ; Skilhunt H03 XP-E2 660nm Photo Red ; Wizard Pro E21A 2000K ; S2+ E21A sw40 d220 (for sale)
That’s why I don’t like the SST-20 (and LH351D) emitters I’ve tried. I mostly only use low levels, and they don’t look good at those levels. Even when doing CCT mixing to pull the tint pinkward, it still looks greenish in the bottom half of the ramp. The FET portion of the ramp looks nice though.
OTOH, it’s a little weird that you’d see much tint shift on a 8×7135 driver. It should have fairly constant tint across all modes except moon, since they’re all running at the same power with different duty cycles. But I suppose if the pulses have rounded edges instead of being true square waves, you’d still see some tint changes.
That’s also a property of how our eyes work.
When there is less light, our eyes tend to prioritize green wavelengths.
That’s what I’ve noticed, and is a strange phenomenon.
My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547
Interesting that I don’t see green in my Sofirn C01s on low or high. Green usually irks me like crazy- maybe the optic in this light helps?
I thought that this occurs at all wavelengths? What I’ve read on the subject is that green is the brightest perceivable color to the human eye under all conditions?
The BIG List of 500m+ Throw Flashlights!
Shaved LH351Ds are quickly becoming my favorite emitter, for single emitter lights at least.
It’s drops the duv to nearly right on the BBL or below – depending on which bin you start with – lowers the CCT just a tad and makes them a bit throwier without any noticeable change in output to my eyes.
I’ve heard the same is true of the SST-20 but that they’re also harder to shave/sand and I haven’t tried either of these emitters in a TIR triple/quad where I think I’d still prefer the SST-20 for a throwier beam.
For a single emitter light the 351D has a great balanced beam profile though. Hitting roughly 700 lumens in a Sofirn SF14 w/4000K bin from Mtn-Elec and the “DOGFART” 5000K has finally made me like my Neutron V3 after swapping out the terribly green and tint-shifting X-PL HD.
Three reasons:
*I suspect that people on BLF overcompensate: if a tint has not the desired rosiness, they have learned to perceive it as greenish
*If compared next to a pink flashlight, it indeed looks green.
*light above the BBL looks uglier in low CRI than in high CRI
link to djozz tests
One more reason with flashlights in moonlight mode : Purkinje effect
Even if an ideal flashlight has zero tint shift over its different modes, you are going to perceive a tint shift with a particularly low moonlight mode.
Yes, the TIR in the CO1s will likely mix the beam differently than the reflector in the S2+.
Many LED’s, especially in reflectors, have a significant tint difference between the hotspot and the spill, and my experience is this difference gives you a more obvious means of comparison to notice bad tint in part of the beam.
I’d bet if the beam in the S2+ was diffused, the green would be less noticeable even on moonlight.
My experience is the opposite with the 219C. The original 5000K CRI80 is much nicer at similar slightly greenish duvs (~0.0030-0.0040) than the newer CRI90 variants. On a white wall at least.
These are ‘my impressions of this particular SST20 4000K 95+ CRI’, yours may vary.[/quote]
Hi Teacher. I read that the lumen output with the specs your light has is about 600 lumens on high.. Do you think that is about right?
thank you.
patrick
Here are the numbers Maukka got for that emitter
Hi saypat… I would say it is ‘at least’ 600 lumens or a bit better on High.
I see BurningPlayd0h posted some test results & that seems to be about right according to his posted chart.
I can’t get to my ‘Lumen Tube’ at the moment because of some remodeling…. but when I can I’ll measure it & see what I come up with.
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$
Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart
Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help??? TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal
Yeah, the 219C 5000K CRI80 I have is actually pretty okay. It tends to make things look a bit lifeless, but overall it’s reasonably good compared to most LEDs I’ve tried. It doesn’t really look not-white during use, even though a camera tells me it’s greenish.
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