Reverse clicky switch for Convoy S11?

I’ve recently received the Convoy S11, but obviously I wasn’t reading very well when I bought it - it comes with a forward clicky, and so is relatively limited in its usefulness to me.

The switch used appears to be this one basing off the dimensions in the diagram, so I’m looking for an alternative - at first I thought an Omten 1288 and just extend the button to the height that it needs to be, but I’m unsure if there’s something more suitable.

Does anyone have any advice or pointers on this?

Looks like this might also do the trick:

https://m.fasttech.com/products/1610/10001865/1203605-omten-1217-1-5a-250v-pushbutton-on-off-switches-2

250V 1.5A, but that’s 375W… only need ~18W.

Hey, not so fast! :slight_smile:

It looks like you’re one of the first to actually get their hands on an S11. Tell us about it!

What’s the beam like? Throwy? Floody? Any rings, or a decent reflector? What’s your general impression of build quality?

Please wait a moment! You are thinking one-dimensional. The Watt’s are not so important, the Amp’s are!
Your batteries are not 250V, “only” 4.2V a piece. You need a switch that can do 5A, preferably more.
Compare it with putting a 600 hp Ferrari in front of a plow: pretty sight but useless because lack of torque.
Just PM Simon at Convoy. He is a really nice guy, and will give you the best advice possible.
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As for the lenght of the switch: there is a “stub” under the rubber cap. You can adjust the feel with that.
Forward clickies tend to be longer. Chances are that in your case all of the stub has been removed.
Most of my reverse clicky switches work perfectly fine with a new rubber cap “fresh out of the box”.

Hmm, I thought that it’d be more to do with maximum wattage, so 4V should be able to do a whole lot of amps if it can do 250V 1.5A. Obviously not! I’ll also take a photo of the inside of the rubber cap, thanks for the tip!

Simon implied that he didn’t have a switch for it:

@Tumbleweed - when I get on a computer and a bit later tonight I’ll write more about it (perhaps a mini-review) and link to it :slight_smile: Should be ~3 hours.

Amps are Amps. They don’t increase because you lower the Voltage. It is still a 1.5A switch. The switch you mentioned is SAFE for applications up to 250V. You definitely don’t want to put a 12V car-switch in a 230V home installation.

Fair call, I think I’m thinking of something else. I’ll have to dig around and find another switch that suits; I’m seeing that the 1288 has done 5A no problems.

It’s a 22mm switch PCB, so I can always look into direct swap options too :slight_smile:

First impressions: Mini-review - Convoy S11 impressions

I didn’t read the description also, so thought it’s a faulty sample. I contacted Simon so he explained. Still it makes no sense or logic to me.
I would order the light anyway, I’m in love with the form factor and it looks so “toolish” and strong. I think I’ll just replace the switch also. Maybe even the driver in the future, to get rid of the disco modes, it’s what I did with all my S2+

Maybe a Judco 10A switch would work for you. It can be reduced in size lengthwise so as to become square, and also a little by height.

Oops, forgot to post here. The Omten 1217 worked well; just had to boost it up a little bit, and potentially sand down the plastic o ring in the switch.

What is the disadvantage of a forward switch versus a reverse clicky? I really don’t know.

With a forward clicky, you change modes from off, so if your light is on the “low” memory, you have to half-press on and off a few times to get to high. Reverse clicky, the light goes on, then you half-press a few times to change modes up to high. So no bursts of light to do that.

Just in case anyone was looking for a solder-free way to change a reverse-clicky switch for the original forward-clicky S11, FastTech is currently selling a switch similar to the Omten mentioned earlier, but pre-soldered to a tailswitch PCB of nearly the right diameter (20.5mm instead of the 22mm): https://www.fasttech.com/p/4390600

I got mine a couple days ago and tried it out - all you have to do is glue a little cylinder of plastic/rubber to the top of the switch, about 3mm in height, and it perfectly replaces the original forward-clicky switch.

Turbo probably isn’t as bright because the spring isn’t pre-bypassed, but that’s a trade-off for convenience I guess.

Hey, thanks for the update - I hacked mine together and haven’t been hugely happy with it, but it’s good to know there’s a mostly ready-to-go option.