[GB has ended] JetuE17A/JetuE21A/Jetusolis

[malkoff_junkie]

no green I can see in mine.
then again I have had some wine…

[Tally-ho]

@BlueSwordM

En somme, la plage de couleurs émises par la DEL de couleur de température approximative de 6500k est plus grande que celle ayant une couleur de 5000k.

Je ne sais pas si les plages des différentes couleurs (primaires, secondaires, tertiaires) émises et donc restituées par la 6500k sont vraiment plus étendues, plus complètes, plus riches, que la 5000k.
Je n’ai pas un oeil d’étalonneur formé à la colorimétrie à l’oeil nu, seuls des tests par maukka et autres possesseurs d’appareils pour mesurer la colorimétrie pourraient te renseigner sur ce point avec certitude.
Je trouve que les teintes chaudes sont un peu plus dynamiques avec la 5000k et que les teintes froides sont plus propres et plus riches avec la 6500k.
Cela est bien entendu lié à l’indice de restitution des différentes couleurs mais la teinte dominante de la LED joue très certainement un rôle. Les bleus et verts ne sont pas “parasités” par une teinte chaude de la LED comme ils pourraient l’être avec une LED de 3000k par exemple, et donc ils paraissent d’autant plus “propres” que la teinte de la LED est légèrement bleutée et les nuances paraissent également riches du fait du très bon indice de restitution des bleus et verts.
Comme c’est la première fois que j’utilise une LED à très haut CRI avec une teinte un peu froide je trouve cette combinaison surprenante (inattendue) et intéressante même si le côté froid de la LED me gêne un peu. Je n’ai jamais apprécié le blanc froid mais jusqu’à présent les LEDs “blanc-froid” n’avaient pas un aussi bon indice CRI pour autant de couleurs, ce qui les rendaient particulièrement inintéressantes, voire repoussantes à mes yeux. Le CRI70 me rend mal à l’aise même si la teinte me convient. Je me sens déphasé et “color-blinded”, avec l’optisolis 6500k ce n’est pas le cas malgré sa teinte bleu pale. Bon, je ne mettrais pas cela chez moi en éclairage domestique pour autant.

Sorry, can’t translate all this.

[jon_slider]

@Tally-ho

Sorry, can’t translate all this.

google can:

@Tally-ho

I do not know if the ranges of different colors (primary, secondary, tertiary) issued and thus restored by the 6500k are really more extensive, more complete, richer, than the 5000k.

I do not have an eye of a calibrator trained in colorimetry with the naked eye, only tests by maukka and other possessors of devices to measure the colorimetry could inform you on this point with certainty.
I find that warm shades are a little more dynamic with the 5000k and that cold shades are cleaner and richer with the 6500k.

This is of course related to the rendering index of the different colors but the dominant shade of the LED certainly plays a role. The blues and greens are not “spoiled” by a warm hue of the LED as they could be with an LED of 3000k for example, and therefore they seem all the more “clean” that the shade of the LED is slightly bluish and shades also appear rich because of the very good index of restitution of blues and greens.
As it is the first time that I use a LED with very high CRI with a tint a little cold I find this combination surprising (unexpected) and interesting even if the cold side of the LED annoys me a little.

I have never appreciated the cold white but until now the LEDs “white-cold” did not have as good a CRI index for so many colors, which made them particularly uninteresting, even repulsive to me. The CRI70 makes me uncomfortable even if the shade suits me. I feel out of sync and “color-blinded”, with the 6500k optisolis this is not the case despite its pale blue hue. Well, I would not put that home lighting for me.

I also dont use cool white at home, I use 3000k Incandescent… @100 CRI…

@BlueSwordM

The problem with silver plating is that it’s much less durable than nickel plating.

good points, darksucks offers nickel plated lights… they stay shiny… no tarnish, but also not Oligodynamic like copper, silver, and gold… did somebody mention Gold plating? LOL!

now back to our JetU program

[BlueSwordM]

Gold plating would be quite nice, but the gold salts cost would have to be justified by plating a lot of lights.

[Tally-ho]

@Tally-ho

I bought the jetusolis based of my remember of a comparison beamshots by clemence with a cool white high-CRI nichia but i don’t remember if it was an e21a or an optisolis

It was an e21a

@clemence

Click pictures to ENLARGE

I don’t use sunscreen in the workshop. It’s just something (I guess) widely available throughout Asia/Europe/US.

- Clemence

[The_Whispering_Galle (The Whispering Gallery)]

What kind of MCPCB comes in the kit? Is it XP footprint or specially made for E21a/Optisolis? If XP, is the LED connected to the positive and thermal pads, then MCPCB insulated from the aluminum pill, and ground wire connected to the MCPCB?

Sorry if I’m misunderstanding something or if this has been discussed elsewhere.

[clemence]

@The Whispering Gallery

What kind of MCPCB comes in the kit? Is it XP footprint or specially made for E21a/Optisolis? If XP, is the LED connected to the positive and thermal pads, then MCPCB insulated from the aluminum pill, and ground wire connected to the MCPCB?

Sorry if I’m misunderstanding something or if this has been discussed elsewhere.

Insulated copper non DTP specifically for E17A/E21A and 757

[Clemence]

[Agro]

@clemence

@The Whispering Gallery

What kind of MCPCB comes in the kit? Is it XP footprint or specially made for E21a/Optisolis? If XP, is the LED connected to the positive and thermal pads, then MCPCB insulated from the aluminum pill, and ground wire connected to the MCPCB?

Sorry if I’m misunderstanding something or if this has been discussed elsewhere.

Insulated copper non DTP specifically for E17A/E21A and 757

[Clemence]

That’s a curious choice. I suppose these don’t have super thin ceramic insulation, do they?
If they do - I’m very curious about the maker.
If they don’t - does copper offer any real advantage over alu?

[jon_slider]

@Agro

does copper offer any real advantage over alu?

Yes
Double the heat conductivity

[clemence]

@Agro

@clemence

@The Whispering Gallery

What kind of MCPCB comes in the kit? Is it XP footprint or specially made for E21a/Optisolis? If XP, is the LED connected to the positive and thermal pads, then MCPCB insulated from the aluminum pill, and ground wire connected to the MCPCB?

Sorry if I’m misunderstanding something or if this has been discussed elsewhere.

Insulated copper non DTP specifically for E17A/E21A and 757

[Clemence]

That’s a curious choice. I suppose these don’t have super thin ceramic insulation, do they?
If they do - I’m very curious about the maker.
If they don’t - does copper offer any real advantage over alu?

No, it’s not a curious choice for these reasons:

- no benefits of nanoceramic or copper board at Jet-U power level (230-235mA). But decided to go with copper because BLF likes copper and eventually someone will use it in a hot rod lights.

• Faaaaar cheaper than nanoceramic board. $0,6/pc (for 2 LED types at 200pcs per type, 400pcs total all in) vs $2/pc (for 400pcs per LED type). The NC prototyping cost is killing me.

About the maker, I’ll keep it secret to stay alive. But you can find many makers out there using the same base substrate. Bergquist

At 230mA power level, copper doesn’t benefit to almost everything except it can be soldered onto solderable objects. These 10mm Jetusolis/JetuE17A/JetuE21A copper MCPCB already tested against NC board.

Check the my post in your own thread below:

@clemence

The Indium gain is not as dramatic as in 119D test or perhaps other ceramic based LEDs. Because E17A/E21A has fragile phosphor layer and use polymer base. The phosphor layer burns way faster than ceramic base LEDs before the actual die cooked. I only did controlled test on 4pcs E21A to save time. The rest of the R70 tested at 2A starting point (60 seconds stops for current ramping) just to cross check/validate my finding. The controlled test done with 3 minutes for each steps. This what makes the burnt patterns looks different. Beyond peak current, E21A phosphor layer slowly degrade and burns at several hottest points.

- Clemence

[The_Whispering_Galle (The Whispering Gallery)]

In for two kits - hoping that it works with a Lumintop EDC01 but will get a Jet-U if not.

[Agro]

@clemence

@Agro

@clemence

@The Whispering Gallery

What kind of MCPCB comes in the kit? Is it XP footprint or specially made for E21a/Optisolis? If XP, is the LED connected to the positive and thermal pads, then MCPCB insulated from the aluminum pill, and ground wire connected to the MCPCB?

Sorry if I’m misunderstanding something or if this has been discussed elsewhere.

Insulated copper non DTP specifically for E17A/E21A and 757

[Clemence]

That’s a curious choice. I suppose these don’t have super thin ceramic insulation, do they?
If they do - I’m very curious about the maker.
If they don’t - does copper offer any real advantage over alu?

No, it’s not a curious choice for these reasons:

- no benefits of nanoceramic or copper board at Jet-U power level (230-235mA). But decided to go with copper because BLF likes copper and eventually someone will use it in a hot rod lights.

• Faaaaar cheaper than nanoceramic board. $0,6/pc (for 2 LED types at 200pcs per type, 400pcs total all in) vs $2/pc (for 400pcs per LED type). The NC prototyping cost is killing me.

About the maker, I’ll keep it secret to stay alive. But you can find many makers out there using the same base substrate. Bergquist

At 230mA power level, copper doesn’t benefit to almost everything except it can be soldered onto solderable objects. These 10mm Jetusolis/JetuE17A/JetuE21A copper MCPCB already tested against NC board.

Check the my post in your own thread below:

@clemence

The Indium gain is not as dramatic as in 119D test or perhaps other ceramic based LEDs. Because E17A/E21A has fragile phosphor layer and use polymer base. The phosphor layer burns way faster than ceramic base LEDs before the actual die cooked. I only did controlled test on 4pcs E21A to save time. The rest of the R70 tested at 2A starting point (60 seconds stops for current ramping) just to cross check/validate my finding. The controlled test done with 3 minutes for each steps. This what makes the burnt patterns looks different. Beyond peak current, E21A phosphor layer slowly degrade and burns at several hottest points.

- Clemence

I see. Thanks for the explanation.

[clemence]

UPDATE: 190407
MOQ of 60pcs reached. But I will keep the interest list going until I have finished with RRT01 testing. And possibly combined with RRT01 interest list. My RRT01 shipment from Banggood still somewhere between Hongkong and Indonesia. With combined order I should get better pricing for you too.

[Clemence]

[DrDevil]

Uups I guess there was a misunderstanding

I wanted to update my interest in total from 1 Jetusolis 5000K to another Jetusolis 3000K
So I made a second comment.
Now the second Jetusolis moved to Nr. 28;
Nr. 28 and Nr. 1 is the same person

Thank you

[clemence]

@DrDevil

Uups I guess there was a misunderstanding

I wanted to update my interest in total from 1 Jetusolis 5000K to another Jetusolis 3000K
So I made a second comment.
Now the second Jetusolis moved to Nr. 28;
Nr. 28 and Nr. 1 is the same person

Thank you

Fixed Doc

[Clemence]

[Paradoxical_Antagoni (Paradoxical Antagonist)]

Comment made on # 28 of sheet.
1x jetusolis ultra high cri @ 5000K.

Thanks.

[Cosmodragoon]

I’ve never bought a flashlight this way and I’m curious. Does this mean we can get what is essentially a new flashlight with our choice of LED and color temperature? (I’m curious about the Optisolis but I’m not sure if I’d want 3000, 4000, or 5000K.) How much would one of these cost in total and how exactly do we set it up?

[clemence]

@Cosmodragoon

I’ve never bought a flashlight this way and I’m curious. Does this mean we can get what is essentially a new flashlight with our choice of LED and color temperature? (I’m curious about the Optisolis but I’m not sure if I’d want 3000, 4000, or 5000K.) How much would one of these cost in total and how exactly do we set it up?

Please refer to post #1, click the link. All answered there.

Thanks,
Clemence

[Tally-ho]

I’ve bought a jetusolis 6500K and a 5000K in a heartbeat without checking maukka’s tests.

It appears that the 5000K has natively a bit better blue rendition and the 6500K better red rendition from the tests but, probably because of the LED tint’s influence, by eyes colors with red (red, brown, orange) are popping more with the 5000K than with the 6500K, and the blue shades looks richer with the 6500K than with the 5000K.
The 6500K has a tendancy to flatten the illuminated scene more than the 5000K but shapes of blue objects with the 6500K seems more 3D despite that it has natively less blue colors rendition, maybe again because of the blue tint of the LED that is enhancing blue colors.
Round copper objects look rounder with the 5000K which has lower red colors rendition/fidelity than the 6500K.
The blue anodized Jaxman E2 looks rounder with deep blue shades with the 6500K while it is a bit greyed out and flattened with the 5000K.

It sounds a bit akward.

Generally people are reporting that high CRI has a 3D effect, but both jetusolis are very high CRI and it’s the cooler one that globally flatten a scene with very different colors.
I wish I could test this with a room full of objects with red and adjoining colors and another one with blue and adjoining colors.

[Tally-ho]

There is probably metamerism involved into this due to tint’s LED or spectral composition of its emitted light. I would wish to hear maukka’s opinion about it as he has probably more colorimetric knowledges than me.