What did you mod today?

Itā€™s less uneven than it looks in the first pic. Thereā€™s still a bit of phosphor between the top two dies, and between the left twoā€¦ so it lights up and looks white in the picture, which makes it look like thereā€™s more space between the dies.

Itā€™s definitely better than other SST-20 lights Iā€™ve tried. It could probably stand to have more of the 3000K + 6500K emitters and fewer 4000K + 5000K though. Farther apart should help pull the Duv down more.

But then: 5000K and 6500K are low CRI. Maybe it would be better with just 3000K and 4000K mix as a base with few 6500K emitters to make it cooler and rosier?

Plus the low CRI ones have quite a bit more output to offset the high CCT. So iā€™d guess you need less of them to balance it out

No. At ~4200K, I find itā€™s already about as warm as I can deal with. If I made it warmer, it would look even less white. Even at 100 CRI, it would still look worse. Warm incandescent-style lights make my eyes hurt, literally.

Iā€™ll enjoy my medium-CRI neutral white instead, thanks.

I did not mean to lower the total CCT. Rather - use 6500K exclusively as the cooling agent rather than the mix of 5000K and 6500K. It should arrive at about the same CCT with fewer low-CRI LEDs.

I view it like: mix 4000K and 6500K only, with a good majority of 4000K. If thatā€™s not rosy enough, replace some 4000K with a mix of 3000K and 6500K.

Ah, okay. That makes sense. :slight_smile:

Added a volt meter to my VC2S cause the dial sucks, problem is I think it never stops charging now so I may need to add a momentary switch. Idk anything about electronics so donā€™t replicate this terrible idea.



Keep in mind, though, that those meters are powered by the voltage source theyā€™re sensing. That means that ā€œcharging currentā€ will quite possibly never go low enough for the charging-IC to sense, ā€œOkay, time to stopā€¦ā€.

The charger will or at least should hold it in CV mode at ~4.20V, and not overcharge, but it just wonā€™t ever show it as being topped off.

Yeah thatā€™s the issue Iā€™m seeing. Basically trickle charging hence I will probably add a switch for it

Ideally, it should balance out when its leftover ā€œtrickle chargeā€ equals the current-draw of the meter/display.

I put a 3v XHP50.2 in my convoy l2 (single cell) with the intention to make it more of a single cell Q8, didnā€™t work. still throws like a beast considering what it is. but i do like the slightly larger spot.

Iā€™m not sure if iā€™m just getting used to high lumens (my edc has a ~2200 turbo) but it doesnā€™t seem that bright. maybe itā€™s the X6 driver? still waiting on a LD-A4

Because i have to much time but can not make much physical stuff i am using my head and plan a new case for my old Soundstrem SS10R chassis.

They were in my car many many years ago. Because space was tight they are in a not so optimal case now.
The plan will be to build two chases like this

Each woofer will get a Mivoc AM 80 as amplifier
First data from the programm

I found a cell which had been discharged to 1.8V. Out of curiosity, I tried charging it. Things went pretty well until it was nearly full, and then it refused to go up above ~4.12V or so. It just kept charging and charging.

Soā€¦ that cell is basically dead. It may still be usable for some lightweight purposes, but I drew sad :frowning: faces all over it to make sure I donā€™t forget which cell it is.

How did you charge it?

Basically, below 2V, you want to charge the cell as slowly as possible.

I found that even with the volt meter it does stop charging. I think the lower resistance batteries terminate quicker and maybe just the smaller protected ones take forever

Braver than me. I throw them out recycle my cells responsibly without charging at that point.

Put a 3V XHP-50.2 in my TK61, the driver is cranking amperage safe for an XM-L2 so I need to address power level, not sure how to go about making the TK61 do the amperage this emitter is capable ofā€¦ as it is itā€™s only doing some 2100 lumens.

Is it this driverā€¦

Iā€™m trying to install an osram white flat in a GT mini but the screw cutouts of the new 20mm pcb donā€™t line up. Should I just use thermal paste without screws?

Hm? Whaddya mean ā€œdonā€™t line upā€?