FREEME ✌ ASTROLUX FT03S SFH55 9300lm & FT03 SFT40 2200lm 1300m NarsilM v1.3 USB-C - ALIVE

Thanks to both of you. Sorry if I used the wrong terminology, but I called the wire a “shunt” as that’s what I think of it as in this case. I’ll try to be more specific in the future. I have professional experience with clamp meters :wink: , though mine is presently broken.

ColorMunki Photo / i1Studio

Can you give x: y values that you got in turbo measurements?

I don’t think I saved it. I will retake them at some point if I have time

Got my NW, finally, today. No glue. Yay.

Sphere gave me 1,822 at start, and 1,762 at 30 seconds.

Measured 207,360cd at 20’, a little lower than others

Is this Customary with Banggood?

My order showed SHIPPED on April 2nd.

Then it shows SHIPPED on April 4th

NOW it shows SHIPPED on April 5th??!! WTF.

I am number 27 in queue waiting for live chat.

My NW was delivered today :slight_smile:

No glue, led appears to be centered, amazing value for money.

I was talking to the manufacture and it looks like the Glue poll from a few weeks ago has had an effect. I was informed that the latest batch of FT03 lights was not glued because of the results from that poll!

Thanks,do you know Why the 21700 high drains[30T,40T,P42A] have NO affect in providing more output? That has been the results so far w/ the members who have tested the light w/ those High drains.

,Thanks

Yay! Snaps for TA! :+1:

My guess is that you are past the peak output from the LED at that point and it simply has nothing more to give.

The output of an LED will generally flat line around peak output, so adding more power just causes more heat and reduced lifespan.

Look at any XP-L HI test, look at this SST-40 test

Maximum at 9,200 mA, 2669 lm @ 3.84 V

With voltage sag and added resistance from Springs/components, and vf when u are dealing with a single emitter at 10Amps there isn’t much more to give from a battery. With so many recent multi die and multi emitter lights it’s easy to forget that a single die @ 10A is still double what an XP-L HI will do.

In these tests the vF goes even higher than what a battery is fully charged. Have to put these power supply death tests into perspective.

Also, you say “NO” effect but that’s not true. Run the tests when the battery is 3/4 or 1/2 charged and you’ll see some differences :slight_smile: I realize you only use topped off cells but they aren’t all created equal even though it may look close in the first 0-30s

Ok TA and contactcr,Thanks.

Although there are Four engineers in my immediate family, I am NOT one of them[!] and do not understand the electrical components and how they are affected by Batteries/Drivers ect. :beer:

I have numerous modded[V54] single cell lights and 3 or 4 batt. torches that BENEFIT and actually require high drains for ultimate performance. I have no idea what is different[other than the driver] between those lights and this one! lol!

EDIT: Actually I do remember that I had[sold] a TK75vn Quad w/ 4 X SST-40 DE DOMED,Vinh told me it did NOT require high drains,GA or MJ1 should be used.obviously they are 10A batteries! I am getting smarter!!!

I think this speaks well of 21700’s in general to be honest. When we only dealt with FET drivers and 18650’s or crappy low drain 26650’s it probably made a bigger difference going from GA > 30Q > VTC5A

Do you think using Molicel P42A 45A 4200mAh 21700 will not only be unable to increase output, but may shorten the life of the LED and circuitry?

I was greedy and bought them on sale,never knowing or thinking that this battery is not only unnecessary[no improved output] but could be detrimental to the light itself. I have no other 21700 lights!

21700 has not been good to me! I have had Two other 21700 lights and returned them and gave away the Two 40T’s that were used with them!!! At that time they were $14 batteries,now Jon[Liionwholesale] is selling them for $11

Well, that’s a problem of FET drivers with modern LEDs that have low voltages to drive them.

The circuitry will be fine, but the LED might not be if you decided to do modifications like even better BeCu springs or a spring bypass.

The MJ1 and GA have a chemical mix in them to maximize their capacity at the expense of generating current. This makes their internal resistance a bit higher. Therefore they don’t generate as many amps when put under a heavy load.

BTW, Mooch considers the Molicel P42A to be a 30A continous discharge cell. So just a bit better than a Samsung 40T, competes with the 30T. For those curious.

tm07’s FT03-NW tail amp test showed 9.15A (235,000kcd @10m).

In koef3’s (corrected) SST-40-CW-N4 test, 2000 lumens occurs at 6.8A and the maximum is ~2375lm at 8.4A. Perhaps this is where Astrolux got its “2400” figure, but it’s obviously an unrealistic number as the bond wires start failing at those currents.

nkresho’s NW light starts at ~1820lm (207,360cd at 20’ [6.1m]), which would be around 5.7A of emitter current on koef’s corrected chart, bearing in mind that the chart represents a CW-N4 emitter. Note that this is a rather substantial difference from tm07’s light, both with NW tints, though I don’t know which battery nkresho is using.

Do we have a general idea of how much is dissipated in the driver and wiring and how much actually reaches the LED? Many here are much more familiar with these circuits and emitters than I, so I thought perhaps there were some rules of thumb for different driver designs. As keof3’s corrected test was done with a C8 reflector, I assume it represents a reasonable estimate; the tint/bin would be bigger factors.

My FT03 status for order #634304XX today changed from “Processing” to “Back Order”. There are many people in line ahead of me and I don’t expect my light to ship for quite some time, but I keep mentioning changes in case others are watching their orders. I ordered via the app on 2019-03-21.