What blade did you EDC today?

Thank you! This Firebird version also comes with skeletonized steel liners so it weights even less than the 1st version.

Be careful mentioning the Ganzo G733 here! :wink: One of the fanboys might attack you in a rant just for owning a Stretch like design with an axis-lock! :person_facepalming:

This is exactly the way I fell about it, not just with the Chinese knives.

Fixed that for you.

Isti.

“”Be careful mentioning the Ganzo G733 here! Wink.
One of the fanboys might attack you in a rant
just for owning a Stretch like design with an axis-lock!“”

===

The reason I bought that one was I wanted to try the different blade “shape”.
I’m still not sure?.
Plus I’d have that axis- lock on all my knives given a choice.

NO folder can be 100% trusted in real hard work.
THAT is done if you have any sense, by a solid fixed blade.
I prefer my Martiini, then an axe or Machete for next size up.
Have you ever seen ankles and wrists/back of hands
when folders have “folded” or slipped off job.
I carry my folder. Martiini. Axe, and chain saw in back of ute.
in that order.
I’m not one who wants to say, “I did this…. with my folder”
I’d rather say my chain saw did a lovely neat job on that wood hey.

They all have their place. don’t push it. Only “you” will suffer.
(Not you personally, you in general).
Have fun.

Teacher.

Unfortunately I have 4 x 3ish inch blades now. 1 x VG110. 2 x D2
and a Chinese 440C.
With smaller and longer around them.

I’m trying to find that Go Comma 2 +mm blade in Orange with better steel than the 3
grade. It’s too soft.
They are a nice looking toy though.
I got a little SRM 6029 LUC with orange plates and 8cr/440c? steel.
Take off clip it a nice key knife (5.5mm blade. 13mm open. Liner lock.)

It’ll take a lot of doing to find a better key blade than my old SOG Micro2
though, but I’m trying.
Waiting for a 6040 in mail to check that out.

You want a coupla. I’m getting inundated with those “I’ll never buy any of those stupid little things”. Yea.
Gotta unload b4 missus sees them.

Like I have said already… if they are the same quality as the first one I got I do not think you will be disappointed. :wink:
And I am counting heavily on them being the same quality…. I ordered 17 more. They are all in shipment now…… so fingers crossed. :wink:

Your right… that ‘extra hole’ in the Skirmish made it look totally different.

Best I recall the original Grip & Mini Grip had the Spyderco Hole in the blade for opening. BM paid Spyderco royalties for using that ‘Hole’.
Then BM went to the Oval hole on the Grips…. I actually liked that better. I also liked/like the Mini Grip much better than the Grip. In fact I did not like the Grip at all. It was too big & just felt awkward to me. The Mini Grip on the other hand was just perfect in every way… to me.

There were a couple other BM models that used the Spyderco Hole too & BM paid royalties. I can’t remember atm which models they were though.

I agree completely about the automobile makers too…. :smiley:

I’m not pushing my luck hard using my folders either. Sometimes using a small hand saw makes more sense than chopping with a knife.

Anyway, I had some chainsaw work in the backyard this morning so I gave my Stihl some exercise.
I don’t own the Ganzo G733 but I have the G734 (the liner-lock version). So here it is with the Stihl in the background:

It baffles me that this could be genuine Damascus steel, given the price. It begs the question of it being some final stage cosmetic treatment to the steel simulating the Damascus aesthetic or if they really managed to come up with a cheap process to make authentic Damascus style steel.

Nope… it IS NOT a “cosmetic treatment”, I can verify that 100%. It is San Mai damascus.

I’ll be back in a minute with a link to explain more….

@ xevious … Here ya’ go:
.

Nice looking knives.

  • What is the one on the left??

Actually “True Damascus steel” is a blended mix of Different materials.
Secrets of, long lost in the mists of time. NOT Laminations.

Modern “so-called Damascus is multiple versions of ”laminated) steel alloys.

Read up on it. It’s interesting. I started on my Japanese Cooks knives yrs ago.
Too brittle a core steel (mainly Carbon based) alloy. Gives you Super sharp and “chipping brittle” blades.

The skills are in getting the right grade of core steel with soft, but NOT too soft outer layers.
I use a 3in VG10 core Iseya Hammered Paring kitchen knife as my small field knife in pack at camp, along with a Tojiro 6in Petty, and 7in Santoku All VG10.
SUPER sharp. not brittle with right mfg (heat treatment. they vary)
They’d be the cheapest, proven, GOOD Grade Japanese blades on market
I also have some $500/600 plus too.These are $45 to 75AUD del.
They leave ALL other types of kitchen blades for dead.
Try one.
I have 45+ yrs of Wusthof German blades. They now sit in drawer.

Sorry, back on track. Folders.
I’ve just ordered a coupla those Burlwood laminates for pressie’s.
I wouldn’t use smooth straight handles knives myself.

I prefer a coupla moulds or finger grips in mine.
Over the yrs a coupla have bitten me with wet.oily, bloody, smooth handles.

Thank you for sharing that. My best knives are Japanese, but not Damascus. (one Shun…meh) So if I buy a Santoko, here is good?: https://www.hocho-knife.com/iseya-g-series-33-layer-vg-10-damascus-santoku-knife-180mm/

Hi.
Personal choices on those things. My love is your hate sort of thing.
“eyes of the beholder”. More so than Western ones.
I have some lovely mid range blades. Top line start at a coupla grand each.with multiple grades/types of steels and smiths.

Personally. Starting out. I’d try the Tojiro DP. models first.
Basic 6in Petty is a good one to practice on AND use after.
Sharpening is “completely” different.
The Iseya are next step up in steels.
I have Wet (different to whet)stones. but nowadays use fine Diamond plates and finish off with mix of polished diamond flat faced steel,s
and ceramic.

A properly edged blade.
Your arm hairs actually LEAN TOWARDS blade just b4 contact. Static I reckon.
They really DO get scary sharp.
Do NOT put tip of your fingers to edge to check. It WILL PRESS through your skin and flesh, just holding against it.

Tip.
most cutting will improve if you buy the “hammered ”blade finishes.
They cause little air pockets between whatever, and your blade side.
They tend NOT to stick to each other so much. Specially cheeses.
Have fun.
And like our knives and torches. You do NOT need the top priced, named ones.
To get a good blade.
Go on “Hocho Knives” and read reviews on different smiths and blades.
It’ll take you a while. It’s fascinating.

Again. Have fun mate.

PS. You like Iseya/shape.Go the “I” Hammered series.
and check blade depth . tip profile too. They vary.
I love the Toj DP tip profile the best.
They a chopping more than rocking blade.
In Petty too.

You will also find (most do) That once you use a “Santoku 7in”
in home.
You’ll tend to stick with it over all others.
Just one western Wusthof for chopping heavy.
Wife uses it all the time now. (Tojiro) I use a better Carbon Steel one.

Also have 4 or 5 European 6 to 8in Chef’s blades in drawer.
Never again to see the light of day. Incl a brand New Wusthof 8in chef.
Reprofiled. Should sell it, cost over $300AUD.

The one on the left is a Bestech Pebble and you are correct on the other one. I only need a black G10 FH11 without the reversible pocket clip holes to round out the run of FH11’s. Great affordable little flippers.

Thank you sir for the info! :+1: I like the looks of both of those. But the FH11 is calling out to me. :money_mouth_face:

Here ya go, $24.60, not too shabby.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ganzo-Firebird-FH11-CF-D2-Steel-Carbon-Fiber-Bearing-Folding-Knife-US-Seller/183434681112?hash=item2ab58f1b18:g:AAkAAOSwOVlcCZBi:sc:USPSFirstClass![](63347)US!–1

Interesting what you say, about the brittle nature of the Japanese high end knives. They are certainly incredibly sharp. A friend of mine has one and when I tested it I was very impressed. But not for the price! He paid something like $225 for it. Hammered treatment to the blade and gorgeous hand made wooden handle. Do you have a link to what you’d consider a really good mid-priced high quality Japanese kitchen knife? Also, what’s your opinion on ceramic?

OK then, I’ll take your word for it. I’ve ordered one. :slight_smile:

:+1: … $10 well spent. :wink:

Had my Y-Start –02 D2 blade for a week or two.
Ganzo G733 came today.
It’s lighter by 1 gram, than the Y-Start.

BUT. while the blade flick is nice with that round hole
with good edge sharpness.
The 733 “Feels” flimsy, when handling them together at same time.

I love my Ganzo’s. but this Y-Start is a better knife (at a higher price)
than the Ganzo (Spyderco) copy.
A lot to do with it, is the scales on Ganzo. flat.
Scales on Y Start rounded.
If the 733 had arrived first. I would be more than happy.
but comparing it to the first arrival Y-Start.
There’s a little disappointment in there.
Shame.

Better/fuller grip. Feels a firmer more stable grip.
The little things can make a difference hey.
Plus the bearings and D2 steel.