Great shots. Few days ago, I modded two lights, the Sofirn SP33 and the Nightwatch IRA with the 2x2000k w/ 2x4000k D240 bin E21A emitters and resulted in about 3300k cct. The tint is gorgeous. Best 3000k I’ve ever seen.
Much rosier then the 3500K mix SKV89? Lumens?
And could you tell something more about that mod? Maybe with pictures 
I really would like to find a decent high-power host for the E21A. It’s technically possible to mod a Meteor with 12 E21A’s with 1.5A per single led using 20mm tir creating a flooder or with triple led setup and the stock Carclo optics with 2A per single led.
Does the E21A give a good beam profile when used with Carclo quad or triple optics?
The lights are modded with the VR21SP4 quadtrix from Virence.com. I never tried Carclo quad or triple optics. All quadtrix requires DC-Fix to eliminate holes and artifacts. I believe one of the lights I modded gave an almost artifact free beam without DC-Fix but I can’t remember exactly which one. It might be the Nightwatch IRA. The Olight R50 with the quadtrix required two layers of DC-Fix to smooth out the beam but it is well worth it. I use it as my table lamp now because the tint and CRI is so beautiful.
I mean, is the tint much rosier then a regular 1000K difference mix?
I thought about modding the Thrunite TC20 or a Convoy C8+ with a OP + DC fix but Clemence suggested this might still give a donut hole.
Next idea is to mod the upcoming 21700 S2. I could go for a quad setup with a 60dg tir and drive it at 8A but this would mean I’ll be pairing up two flooders hsince I already have a 1200lm E21A Wizard and adding a 1800lm S2 with the same optic has little sense.
So another option would be to use the VR20SP3 (?) at 6A with the Carclo triple tir. Clemence, do you know if the E21A works good with Carclo tirs? having a non-flooder E21A light with a more general-purpose beam with some range would be nice.
Since the E21A is rosier to begin with, mixing it will yield in rosier tint than your standard 1000k difference mix using other emitters. The TC20 might be hard to use with the VR16SP4 because the aluminum optic will be sitting over the wires of the 20mm mcpcb. I’m also planning to mod the 21700 S2+ with E21A and I have a bunch of Tiara Pros with E21A. I don’t think it is redundant since you can try out different tints and color temperatures.
Got the E21A & E17A boards from Clemence today. Will report next week, but here’s a teaser from 2000K+6500K tint mixing with the included optic, which is superb.
Drive current 700mA per LED. Yes, it’s very pink, but that’s what people prefer in studies. Also the Rg value is very high, which is also preferred even if not hifi per se.
Nice and even hotspot with surprisingly good definition.
Great news 
. You will make the people of the Virence 4000K D240 Wizard Pro group buy I organized very happy with the measurements of the mixed 4000K and pure 4500K. 3/4 want to change the current setup…
Could you explain in normal word how high RG works? My 3500K mix has a RG103 and despite having lower CRI than the 4000K (RG100) is makes the colours “pop” noticeably more. The contrast between colours is also enhanced. I don’t know if this is caused by the higher RG or the combination od pink tint and warmer CCT. Browns (rust), reds, orange and yellow are really intensive under the 3500K mix.
bob_mcbob, will you publish your measurements of the 4500K Wizard?
I don’t have an optic in my sm453 Wizard to take measurements right now, but I do have some results I sent while informally testing it.
Main 3:
CCT = 4546K (Duv –0.0033)
Color Rendering Index (Ra) = 97.1 [ R9 = 85.7 ]
From moonlight to Main 3, Duv went from –0.0013 to –0.0033, then Turbo 1 –0.0052, Turbo 2 –0.0084. It’s below BBL on all levels, and quite rosy on turbo.
Thanks a lot Bob, this was very helpful! I think my friend is a moron. He wants to make his 4000K D240 Wizard less green by swapping one led to a 5000K D220 instead of switching to pure 4500K or making a 2x4000K + 2x4500K mix…
all very nice, thank you.
You come in peculiar places Ryzbor! What happens in an “insemination laboatory”, before I understand it wrong?
Thanks for all those interesting pics, and they show the capabilities of high CRI illumination well!
Stuff related with breeding stock and agricultural chemistry since it was a communistic state agricultural farm abandoned in the 90’s during the transition to market economy. Yeah you can find peculiar stuff in such places. High-CRI light helps making better pictures.
Another cool pic 
So excited for the Maukka tests! Love the low DUV and high RG. Does tint mixing always result in higher RG?
Hope we get testing for each individual CCT also! I’m going to make a big order from Clemence pending Maukka’s review. 
Clemence’s 10mm board fits in a lot of smaller AAA and AA lights like the BLF 348, Enogear AAA and AA stainless steel.
As promised to unknown-offthegrid-anonym-youdon’tknowwho:
The Armytek Wizard Pro Warm XPL baseline located at bottom left. Very easy to find.
[Clemence]
Ryzbor, although I’ve seen your picture many times before, I always find it amusing. Bring back memories when I used to spend hours staring pictures pixel by pixel on my Pentium III computer.
I completed many games like these!
[Clemence]
Is there some specific tint mixing combinations you would like to see?
I’m going to test at least
2000K+6500K
3000K+4000K
3000K+4500K
4000K+5000K
4000K+5700K
Here are the possible combinations
Just as a wild curiosity, it could be fun to see what the RGBA mixed results in.
3500K+4500K certainly would be helpful (to replace the D240)
4000K+4500K as a neutral tinted (?) 4250K
3*4000K+1*5000K if possible
2000k + 3000k. Ive been using this nightly. Curious what it measures. Thanks.