What did you mod today?

@Lexel, I think “mod report” is an understatement. You completely rebuilt everything, impressive!

19.9A without topping the battery off again. I don’t have a good power supply. Not a fan of XP-L2’s my snobbery will not allow me to use them.

C, I’m flattered! Good work!

Lexel, holy smoke man that is over the top extensive work to make it right, kudo’s to your instincts and perseverance, what a job!

A look at the colors of my sons room with the tint adjusted Quad X6…

battery problem not solved yet
open for advise

By the way, I’ve recently learned that tritium vials are weakest on the ends where the CO2 laser cut them and sealed the tritium inside. So if you have to push one use a flat ended helper that closely matches the diameter of the vial, a pointed toothpick can rupture the end and release the tritium effectively killing the trit. This from the company in Switzerland that has been making them for 50 years. :wink:

Today i try to build a quad Nichia 219b-v1 9080 4500k with a convoy C8, the kiriba-ru head and led4power driver and mpcb.


Driver was almost all solder except 3 wires that have a 3pin conector. First of all cut the wires before solder to the driver (mistake).
Later I’ve noticed that the 3 pin conector it does not enter through the hole and that it must have been put in before welding it… Later i desolder the wires and try to solder the driver to the retaining ring… I have not been able to weld them :person_facepalming:

Probably this kit goes to the want to sell section soon. Proably its better for me make simple builds, only solder postive and negative wire :smiley:


If you have a needle or very fine screwdriver or tweezer you can remove the wires from the plastic connector and reinsert them on top after feeding through hole. It has a barb like a fishing hook

Put a sliced and diced 3V 50.2 in an old style C8 with a copper pill, the tube is bored to accept a 20700A Sanyo cell, Turbo shows 4320 lumens at start in my calibrated box. Pretty cool!

@alberto:
You need a soldering iron with a large, flat tip, high wattage and, if possible, a tip with integrated heating element to solder the driver to the pill reliably.

I made probably one of the smallest / lightest 18350 flashlights with built-in charging :)
Skilhunt M200 + Astrolux S43 18350 tube.



From left to right: Skilhunt M200, Jaxman E2L, Astrolux S43 (with S42S body and bezel)




I made a 18650 S2+ triple SST20 FET driver, with a*18500* Jaxman tube :slight_smile:
I know this isn’t new, but I postponed this mod for at least 2 years, so I’m quite proud to have FINALLY took the time t do it :smiley:

From left to right :

  • Convoy S2 triple with 18650 tube
  • Convoy S2+ triple with *18500*tube and 18650 battery
  • Emisar D4 18650
  • Convoy S2+ 18350 with tube

Comparison pic between how far the pill screws down in the head. I used an S2 pill in the S2+ head (S2 pill is like 5mm shorter than S2+ one) and grinded some of the threads to allow it to screw farther. There’s no edge on the top of the pille either, it’s filed flat with a wet 1000 grit finish to get good thermal contact.
I used an BLF FET driver and it heats as fast as my D4… pulls around 13A from a 30Q battery.

Nice job X3. I did it by chopping off the top of the original pill in two pieces and soldering the ledboard on the now open end. So I had no shelf for soldering the ledboard onto but the edges are so fat, almost under the leds, that it is thermally still very sound.

Modified my cheap “18 watt” 6-LED light bar that I put on my mower for late-night mowing (or snow removal).

Swapped out the cool white XB-D LEDs for 5000K high-bin XB-H ones (XB-H is a XP-G2 on a 2.45x2.45mm substrate) Despite it being a 5 year old LED, I think it’s the newest and brightest for that footprint. I also swapped the R180 sense resistor for an R120 for perhaps 50% more current. Hopefully it can handle that.

Before

After

I took my Jaxman Z1 and put a 22MM-7135-DRV-AW with 13 7135s...

I need to replace the LED and remove a couple 7135s now.

I also took my dead EagTac D25C Ti and replaced the driver with a moonlight special. I went with 6x 7135s, and "Moonlight--->2%-->33%-->100%" as the mode order. I treat the 100% as a Turbo, and the 33% as a high mode, and the two are actually pretty close in brightness off my 650mAh Olight RCR123A. I also replaced the rear switch with a Omtem 1288 small reverse-clicky for convenient mode changes. No twisting for me.

This had previously been equipped with a Mtn-17DD fet driver, which was single-mode 100%. The driver was dead when I got it. I'm not sure what the switch was, but in testing it felt like a reverse-clicky with crappy functionality, but it may also have been forward. I just couldn't get it to cycle modes at all with that switch. It also came to me with XPL-HI V2 1A, which I like a lot. In such a small reflector, it kind of needs the HI in my opinion. The reflector also has a very slight OP texture.

The spring on my Moonlight Special driver was very stiff and too long for the host, and I ran into issues. I didn't have a good replacement (a very short brass button would have been ideal), especially with the driver being two-sided. So I stuffed it farther down into the pill instead of using the press-fit brass ring, and soldered it to the sides of the pill. It works great now, and I'm never gonna swap that driver anyway unless Zebralight starts selling stand-alone drivers as parts. I'm really happy with it now, as I'd started carrying my Olight S1 as a "backup" EDC to my normal 18650-rotation, and while this is larger (and comically close in size to my SC62), I can't resist the nerd-metal aspect of having a Titanium carry.

Modified BLF KRONOS Special Copper X6….21700 tube

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. Triple 3v 50.2 K2 1D 6200k

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. Slight tweaking needed…. optics SUCK! :rage:

Is that melted optics? If so never seen such a thing

Unless you shorted something that current should be fine. You sure you didn’t have dirt on it? Before u trash it scrub it with alcohol and try again without the head on it

Thanks, I'll give that a shot. I didn't run it very long on high power, less than 15 seconds per "burst". I have another white flat that I accidentally bought on a 16mm mcpcb a while back, and if this one is truly dead I'll just reflow it over.

I made this contraption to be able to measure leds at a precise angle. The bottom section is a rotation stage that I bought on aliexpress, the rest is custom made. The middle section (the black painted aluminium thing) is made such that the led is almost exactly on the rotation axis. But it is all made with hand tools while it should be done with an end mill, so the centering is not sub-mm precise. Still it should be good enough for what I want with it.

This thing is planned to be fixed onto a rail of some kind.
I’m not sure what I want it exactly for, tint measurements I guess, it was mainly fun to make it. But it could be used for rather cumbersome led output measurements too, as a hand-operated goniophotometer.

The Sofirn C01 in the picture is for size reference.

Astrolux MF01 mod
Leds: 18x Samsung LH351D 5000K 90 CRI
Driver: Haikelite MT09R TA FET
MCPCB: Modded from 6S3P to 2S9P led wiring
Springs: Stock but 20 AWG wire bypasses in carrier and 18 AWG bypass on driver
Output: 20130 lumens
Intensity: 61200 cd