In the pics it looked like G10 composite to me, not aluminum. G10 would allow aux LEDs to glow through nicely, and I don’t see how scratching would be an issue with it being under the lens. If aluminum has to be used for some reason, additional holes could be drilled for the AUX LEDs to shine through.
I’ve seen the pics. It’s hard to tell without a light in my hands, but it looks like some light would still get up between the lenses and the lens holder plate. Light could maybe get up into the lens reflectors too (like Lexel has done with the D1 and D1s). Can’t tell from pics how tight the tolerances are.
I get it if you don’t want/like aux LEDs, but these issues aren’t that difficult to overcome.
(Edit: taking an even closer look, the lens holder plate still looks like g10 to me. Review also states that it is “thin pcb”.)
I haven’t seen one yet and TK’s pics do look like it’s a pcb material but Hank used aluminum in the M43, which I am quite familiar with. At any rate, bright light might glow a raw or bare pcb material (which is usually a dull green in color) to a low degree but dim aux lighting isn’t going to come through the fiberglass material. Even IF there were space on the MCPCB for such an LED to be placed… perhaps around the outer periphery? Don’t know, it’d be tight. Maybe small outlet holes could be put in the cover plate to allow something to show? Again, complex but doable and at a price I’m sure. (I don’t really care either way, not something I’d add and I may be prone to turn it off it were in the factory light)
As far as a clear one would go, assembly would be apt to scratch it up.
Some of my lights would strip themselves if I gave em a shiny brass pole, they’ve been bared so many times already.
FWIW, a buddy of mine has a D18 en-route and I will be putting Samsung emitters in it for him. The W6 5000K emitters are here already…. We’ll see how/where that goes. …
Thanks for that teacher :+1: that’s cleared that up , I thought it was probly a joke as I could clearly see through it ,tinterweb & forum talk can be a bit confusing at times.
What I was trying to say is that the material I posted in the pic, in the same thickness as the spacer board in the D18, would probably be see through. As you can see in the pic I posted, the table is clearly visible through the thinner sheets.
Basically I put an extra Attiny85 in there, who's sole purpose is to drive a single WS2812B emitter.
It was originally supposed to look like this:
It was great because the positive and negative of the Attiny85 matched the WS2812B perfectly, according to the schematic, which was wrong. The Emitters poles were actually the opposite, so I had to flip or around and run the data line over the back. Much less elegant:
But it worked. I did clean this one up a bit more before installing it, but you get the idea.
The speed of the rainbow effect can be sped or slowed by setting parameters at compile time. There are other effects in the code I found, too.
I have no idea of the current draw, I suspect it is somewhat high, because the Attiny85 is running at 8mhz nonstop to drive the signal fast enough to control the WS2812B, but I don't have anything sensitive enough to measure it.