I made a 18650 S2+ triple SST20 FET driver, with a*18500* Jaxman tube
I know this isn’t new, but I postponed this mod for at least 2 years, so I’m quite proud to have FINALLY took the time t do it
From left to right :
Convoy S2 triple with 18650 tube
Convoy S2+ triple with 18500*tube and *18650 battery
Emisar D4 18650
Convoy S2+ 18350 with tube
Comparison pic between how far the pill screws down in the head. I used an S2 pill in the S2+ head (S2 pill is like 5mm shorter than S2+ one) and grinded some of the threads to allow it to screw farther. There’s no edge on the top of the pille either, it’s filed flat with a wet 1000 grit finish to get good thermal contact.
I used an BLFFET driver and it heats as fast as my D4… pulls around 13A from a 30Q battery.
—
"-X3-, is there any place in your house without a flashlight ?"
Nice job X3. I did it by chopping off the top of the original pill in two pieces and soldering the ledboard on the now open end. So I had no shelf for soldering the ledboard onto but the edges are so fat, almost under the leds, that it is thermally still very sound.
Modified my cheap “18 watt” 6-LEDlight bar that I put on my mower for late-night mowing (or snow removal).
Swapped out the cool white XB-D LEDs for 5000K high-bin XB-H ones (XB-H is a XP-G2 on a 2.45×2.45mm substrate) Despite it being a 5 year old LED, I think it’s the newest and brightest for that footprint. I also swapped the R180 sense resistor for an R120 for perhaps 50% more current. Hopefully it can handle that.
I also took my dead EagTac D25C Ti and replaced the driver with a moonlight special. I went with 6x 7135s, and "Moonlight--->2%-->33%-->100%" as the mode order. I treat the 100% as a Turbo, and the 33% as a high mode, and the two are actually pretty close in brightness off my 650mAh Olight RCR123A. I also replaced the rear switch with a Omtem 1288 small reverse-clicky for convenient mode changes. No twisting for me.
This had previously been equipped with a Mtn-17DD fet driver, which was single-mode 100%. The driver was dead when I got it. I'm not sure what the switch was, but in testing it felt like a reverse-clicky with crappy functionality, but it may also have been forward. I just couldn't get it to cycle modes at all with that switch. It also came to me with XPL-HI V2 1A, which I like a lot. In such a small reflector, it kind of needs the HI in my opinion. The reflector also has a very slight OP texture.
The spring on my Moonlight Special driver was very stiff and too long for the host, and I ran into issues. I didn't have a good replacement (a very short brass button would have been ideal), especially with the driver being two-sided. So I stuffed it farther down into the pill instead of using the press-fit brass ring, and soldered it to the sides of the pill. It works great now, and I'm never gonna swap that driver anyway unless Zebralight starts selling stand-alone drivers as parts. I'm really happy with it now, as I'd started carrying my Olight S1 as a "backup" EDC to my normal 18650-rotation, and while this is larger (and comically close in size to my SC62), I can't resist the nerd-metal aspect of having a Titanium carry.
Unless you shorted something that current should be fine. You sure you didn’t have dirt on it? Before u trash it scrub it with alcohol and try again without the head on it
Unless you shorted something that current should be fine. You sure you didn't have dirt on it? Before u trash it scrub it with alcohol and try again without the head on it
Thanks, I'll give that a shot. I didn't run it very long on high power, less than 15 seconds per "burst". I have another white flat that I accidentally bought on a 16mm mcpcb a while back, and if this one is truly dead I'll just reflow it over.
I made this contraption to be able to measure leds at a precise angle. The bottom section is a rotation stage that I bought on aliexpress, the rest is custom made. The middle section (the black painted aluminium thing) is made such that the led is almost exactly on the rotation axis. But it is all made with hand tools while it should be done with an end mill, so the centering is not sub-mm precise. Still it should be good enough for what I want with it.
This thing is planned to be fixed onto a rail of some kind.
I’m not sure what I want it exactly for, tint measurements I guess, it was mainly fun to make it. But it could be used for rather cumbersome led output measurements too, as a hand-operated goniophotometer.
The Sofirn C01 in the picture is for size reference.
Astrolux MF01 mod
Leds: 18x Samsung LH351D 5000K 90 CRI
Driver: Haikelite MT09R TA FET MCPCB: Modded from 6S3P to 2S9P led wiring
Springs: Stock but 20 AWG wire bypasses in carrier and 18 AWG bypass on driver
Output: 20130 lumens
Intensity: 61200 cd
Astrolux MF01 mod
Leds: 18x Samsung LH351D 5000K 90 CRI
Driver: Haikelite MT09R TA FET MCPCB: Modded from 6S3P to 2S9P led wiring
Springs: Stock but 20 AWG wire bypasses in carrier and 18 AWG bypass on driver
Output: 20130 lumens
Intensity: 61200 cd
I highly suggest to upgrade to better or 2. SIR800 FET as this will also get very hot at those currents
In the spirit of “Because it was there” I put 4 White Flats in an E07 along with 3 stock XP-L HI emitters. Reduced the hot spot, increased the hot. lol
We are under warning for severe supercell storms with possible softball sized hail and even tornado’s, supposed to be a huge amount of wind, lightning, and some localized flooding possible. So to get prepared, I am running 8 lights with Anduril in Lightning mode, from a few hundred lumens to 21,300.
TK-05, 2 E07’s, Ham’r, EOD20, SP03, and GT Mini as well as my Meteor. These are on the shelves in front of and above me, quite a show!
I would say to look at the 7135 for that dim glow, the MOSFET is turned off at low levels so any power coming through has to be due to the 7135 leaking. (gut feeling, don’t know this for 100% sure)
Y’all replaced one FET for a different huge one (‘800 for an ’808)? Betcha leakage current when “off” is gonna be proportionately higher, too.
Ever stick a non-dimmable CFL bulb in a socket controlled by a dimmer, even if you don’t intend to dim it but just slam it on/off? Even when “off”, it’ll flicker at random, like having your own lightning-mode built in.
That teeny-tiny leakage current slowly builds up charge in a capacitor in the CFL, enough to just let it “discharge” with a quick dim pulse.
Can probably be fixed with a resistor across the LEDs that’d suck down maybe 1mA or so. So… 3V, 1mA, about 3kΩ oughtta do it.
That way even 0.1mA leakage current would tend to go through the resistor first, and not even let the voltage rise to Vγ to light the LEDs.
I would say to look at the 7135 for that dim glow, the MOSFET is turned off at low levels so any power coming through has to be due to the 7135 leaking. (gut feeling, don’t know this for 100% sure)
None of those drivers have 7135. Just the fet changed and for the lower channel I even removed the small fet and still glowed. So I think Lightbringer has the answer.
Sometimes I launch off into projects that, in retrospect, I might should have not done. This last one is a fairly good example but not a total waste of time as it turned out.
Some background… my EDC light that I made from Scratch used to have the tight Khatod quad optics, I had bought several while at it as they came from England I think. The light morphed into a standard quad with LH351D emitters and the Khatod’s sit here unused. Stage 2 of the background, Will34 here on the forum was selling off some lights… I bought an X6 and Convoy M1 from him. Both of these were already modified, the X6 into a triple and the M1 a quad with a Khatod optic. Neither was really performing all that well so I rebuilt both of them. The M1 was somewhat oddly done with a T-Pad Quad MCPCB and what appear to be XP-G3 emitters that have damaged domes from the ultra tight Khatod optics. A copper plug and a top section of SS filled the head. No idea why SS, but it was in there…
I hadn’t worked on the lathe in a while, so it was a good project to refresh my amateurish skills. I had a piece of copper, WAY bigger than needed, so I carved it down. lol
I tend to like the challenge of making a heat sink that follows the internal lines of the head, and in this case, fully supports the optic all the way up to the glass.
Like most optics, the Khatod has an injection mold protrusion which made me hand carve some space from the top to get the optic to seat fully…
But what emitter? I thought about using sliced LH351D in 80 CRI trim, but the entry to the TIR’s in these Khatod’s is quite small, so I chose to use 4 White Flat’s and built a new driver for em using a lesser MOSFET and A6 firmware.
Hot spot is defined, the little quad makes 2510 lumens at 31.5Kcd, pulling 18.5A at the tail from a fresh charged 30Q.
Seems like a waste of White Flats in a way, but it makes for a unique little light and overall I think I am happy with it.
Apart from the inefficiency of the White Flat compared to the bigger die leds (2500 lumen can be made with i.e. a 3V XHP50.2 with under 10A), it looks like a nice performing flashlight with a pretty nice beam.
I built 2x Convoy s2+ with LD-4 Drivers. One with Nichia sw45 9080 and the other luxeon V 4000k.
I try both, and the nichia it does not look pink tint as other people say (not very impresive). Any form of check if the led is correct?
Colors should be very vivid (intensive).
The tint should become pink at higher currents (above 2A). This should be very noticeable when you compare it to another flashlight.
Where did you buy the Nichia?
Swapped in a new lens on my Jetbeam TCR-01. The old one was cracked at the edge from when I’d put on the bezel too snug.
Unfortunately, I didn’t measure the lens before ordering replacements. Ordered a mixed selection of 22mm lenses when what I really needed was 20mm. Whoops!
Fortunately, one of the lenses I ordered was UCLP acrylic, which I was able to file to the correct size.
I made probably one of the smallest / lightest 18350 flashlights with built-in charging
Skilhunt M200 + Astrolux S43 18350 tube.
From left to right: Skilhunt M200, Jaxman E2L, Astrolux S43 (with S42S body and bezel)
I made a 18650 S2+ triple SST20 FET driver, with a*18500* Jaxman tube
I know this isn’t new, but I postponed this mod for at least 2 years, so I’m quite proud to have FINALLY took the time t do it
From left to right :
Comparison pic between how far the pill screws down in the head. I used an S2 pill in the S2+ head (S2 pill is like 5mm shorter than S2+ one) and grinded some of the threads to allow it to screw farther. There’s no edge on the top of the pille either, it’s filed flat with a wet 1000 grit finish to get good thermal contact.
I used an BLF FET driver and it heats as fast as my D4… pulls around 13A from a 30Q battery.
"-X3-, is there any place in your house without a flashlight ?"
My Flashlight public album (mods, emitter swaps, eye candy)
My reviews channel (French language, Olight, Thorfire, Sofirn, Lumintop : 60+ lights tested)
My personal channel (including Olight SR mini, S1, S2, S1A and S-mini disassembly)
M4DM4X blog, saves you $$$
Nice job X3. I did it by chopping off the top of the original pill in two pieces and soldering the ledboard on the now open end. So I had no shelf for soldering the ledboard onto but the edges are so fat, almost under the leds, that it is thermally still very sound.
link to djozz tests
Modified my cheap “18 watt” 6-LED light bar that I put on my mower for late-night mowing (or snow removal).
Swapped out the cool white XB-D LEDs for 5000K high-bin XB-H ones (XB-H is a XP-G2 on a 2.45×2.45mm substrate) Despite it being a 5 year old LED, I think it’s the newest and brightest for that footprint. I also swapped the R180 sense resistor for an R120 for perhaps 50% more current. Hopefully it can handle that.
Before
After
I took my Jaxman Z1 and put a 22MM-7135-DRV-AW with 13 7135s...
I need to replace the LED and remove a couple 7135s now.
I also took my dead EagTac D25C Ti and replaced the driver with a moonlight special. I went with 6x 7135s, and "Moonlight--->2%-->33%-->100%" as the mode order. I treat the 100% as a Turbo, and the 33% as a high mode, and the two are actually pretty close in brightness off my 650mAh Olight RCR123A. I also replaced the rear switch with a Omtem 1288 small reverse-clicky for convenient mode changes. No twisting for me.
This had previously been equipped with a Mtn-17DD fet driver, which was single-mode 100%. The driver was dead when I got it. I'm not sure what the switch was, but in testing it felt like a reverse-clicky with crappy functionality, but it may also have been forward. I just couldn't get it to cycle modes at all with that switch. It also came to me with XPL-HI V2 1A, which I like a lot. In such a small reflector, it kind of needs the HI in my opinion. The reflector also has a very slight OP texture.
The spring on my Moonlight Special driver was very stiff and too long for the host, and I ran into issues. I didn't have a good replacement (a very short brass button would have been ideal), especially with the driver being two-sided. So I stuffed it farther down into the pill instead of using the press-fit brass ring, and soldered it to the sides of the pill. It works great now, and I'm never gonna swap that driver anyway unless Zebralight starts selling stand-alone drivers as parts. I'm really happy with it now, as I'd started carrying my Olight S1 as a "backup" EDC to my normal 18650-rotation, and while this is larger (and comically close in size to my SC62), I can't resist the nerd-metal aspect of having a Titanium carry.
Modified BLF KRONOS Special Copper X6….21700 tube
.
. Triple 3v 50.2 K2 1D 6200k
.
. Slight tweaking needed…. optics SUCK!
KB1428 “Live Life WOT”
Is that melted optics? If so never seen such a thing
Unless you shorted something that current should be fine. You sure you didn’t have dirt on it? Before u trash it scrub it with alcohol and try again without the head on it
Thanks, I'll give that a shot. I didn't run it very long on high power, less than 15 seconds per "burst". I have another white flat that I accidentally bought on a 16mm mcpcb a while back, and if this one is truly dead I'll just reflow it over.
I made this contraption to be able to measure leds at a precise angle. The bottom section is a rotation stage that I bought on aliexpress, the rest is custom made. The middle section (the black painted aluminium thing) is made such that the led is almost exactly on the rotation axis. But it is all made with hand tools while it should be done with an end mill, so the centering is not sub-mm precise. Still it should be good enough for what I want with it.
This thing is planned to be fixed onto a rail of some kind.
I’m not sure what I want it exactly for, tint measurements I guess, it was mainly fun to make it. But it could be used for rather cumbersome led output measurements too, as a hand-operated goniophotometer.
The Sofirn C01 in the picture is for size reference.
link to djozz tests
Astrolux MF01 mod
Leds: 18x Samsung LH351D 5000K 90 CRI
Driver: Haikelite MT09R TA FET
MCPCB: Modded from 6S3P to 2S9P led wiring
Springs: Stock but 20 AWG wire bypasses in carrier and 18 AWG bypass on driver
Output: 20130 lumens
Intensity: 61200 cd
Reviews: Olight Seeker2 pro, Lumintop GlowI, Sofirn SP36, Convoy 4X18A, Convoy M21C, Brinyte SR8 Rescue Angel, Astrolux MF01 mini, Astrolux FT03S, YLP Sherp S15, Sofirn SP40, YLP Panda 3R and Unicorn, Armytek Prime C1 Pro, Acebeam M50, Imalent MS18, Convoy M3, Nitecore TIP2, Imalent RT70, Wuben T70, Sofirn SP32A, Thorfire VG15S, Thorfire VG10S, Thorfire TG06S
Mods: Imalent MS18 dedoming, Astrolux MF01-20K, Small sun T08 MT-G2, Eagle eye X6 triple XPL, Ultrafire F13 MT-G2, Convoy C8 XHP70, Solarstorm T3 triple XP-L HI
Big flashlight measurement and beamshot collection
3D printing stuff for flashlights
My flashlight related Instagram
My Flashlight related Youtube channel called Zozzlights
Looks good djozz. Taking it to the next step. Where do you hide this from the better half?
djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".
"My man mousehole needs one too"
old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".
Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.
That is quite the monster, Zozz ! 20.000 lumen in 90CRI must be very impressive when lighting up a forest.
I keep my builds tiny so it fits in my dark hole behind the cupboard
link to djozz tests
Very nice Zozz. I also reflowed lh351d 90cri to my mf01 mcpcb, but can’t find some time to put it together
I highly suggest to upgrade to better or 2. SIR800 FET as this will also get very hot at those currents
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: overview of sizes and types
DD+AMC based drivers Anduril or Bistro OTSM 12-24mm, S42, 24-30mm L6, Q8, MF01(S), MT03, TN42
Anduril or Bistro 8A buck driver for 20-30mm, MF01/02/04, TN40/42, Lumintop GT, MT09R
UVC and UVC+UVA drivers
programming key
Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards:
Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
In the spirit of “Because it was there” I put 4 White Flats in an E07 along with 3 stock XP-L HI emitters. Reduced the hot spot, increased the hot. lol
We are under warning for severe supercell storms with possible softball sized hail and even tornado’s, supposed to be a huge amount of wind, lightning, and some localized flooding possible. So to get prepared, I am running 8 lights with Anduril in Lightning mode, from a few hundred lumens to 21,300.
TK-05, 2 E07’s, Ham’r, EOD20, SP03, and GT Mini as well as my Meteor. These are on the shelves in front of and above me, quite a show!
When I replaced the FET in my MT09R and MT03 they both having the dim glowing led error. With original FET they were completely off.
Reviews: Olight Seeker2 pro, Lumintop GlowI, Sofirn SP36, Convoy 4X18A, Convoy M21C, Brinyte SR8 Rescue Angel, Astrolux MF01 mini, Astrolux FT03S, YLP Sherp S15, Sofirn SP40, YLP Panda 3R and Unicorn, Armytek Prime C1 Pro, Acebeam M50, Imalent MS18, Convoy M3, Nitecore TIP2, Imalent RT70, Wuben T70, Sofirn SP32A, Thorfire VG15S, Thorfire VG10S, Thorfire TG06S
Mods: Imalent MS18 dedoming, Astrolux MF01-20K, Small sun T08 MT-G2, Eagle eye X6 triple XPL, Ultrafire F13 MT-G2, Convoy C8 XHP70, Solarstorm T3 triple XP-L HI
Big flashlight measurement and beamshot collection
3D printing stuff for flashlights
My flashlight related Instagram
My Flashlight related Youtube channel called Zozzlights
I have this error on one of my Q8 with Luxeon MZ and stock driver.
I would say to look at the 7135 for that dim glow, the MOSFET is turned off at low levels so any power coming through has to be due to the 7135 leaking.
(gut feeling, don’t know this for 100% sure)
Y’all replaced one FET for a different huge one (‘800 for an ’808)? Betcha leakage current when “off” is gonna be proportionately higher, too.
Ever stick a non-dimmable CFL bulb in a socket controlled by a dimmer, even if you don’t intend to dim it but just slam it on/off? Even when “off”, it’ll flicker at random, like having your own lightning-mode built in.
That teeny-tiny leakage current slowly builds up charge in a capacitor in the CFL, enough to just let it “discharge” with a quick dim pulse.
Can probably be fixed with a resistor across the LEDs that’d suck down maybe 1mA or so. So… 3V, 1mA, about 3kΩ oughtta do it.
That way even 0.1mA leakage current would tend to go through the resistor first, and not even let the voltage rise to Vγ to light the LEDs.
09 F9 11 02 9D 74 E3 5B D8 41 56 C5 63 56 88 C0
None of those drivers have 7135. Just the fet changed and for the lower channel I even removed the small fet and still glowed. So I think Lightbringer has the answer.
Reviews: Olight Seeker2 pro, Lumintop GlowI, Sofirn SP36, Convoy 4X18A, Convoy M21C, Brinyte SR8 Rescue Angel, Astrolux MF01 mini, Astrolux FT03S, YLP Sherp S15, Sofirn SP40, YLP Panda 3R and Unicorn, Armytek Prime C1 Pro, Acebeam M50, Imalent MS18, Convoy M3, Nitecore TIP2, Imalent RT70, Wuben T70, Sofirn SP32A, Thorfire VG15S, Thorfire VG10S, Thorfire TG06S
Mods: Imalent MS18 dedoming, Astrolux MF01-20K, Small sun T08 MT-G2, Eagle eye X6 triple XPL, Ultrafire F13 MT-G2, Convoy C8 XHP70, Solarstorm T3 triple XP-L HI
Big flashlight measurement and beamshot collection
3D printing stuff for flashlights
My flashlight related Instagram
My Flashlight related Youtube channel called Zozzlights
Yay! I win!
09 F9 11 02 9D 74 E3 5B D8 41 56 C5 63 56 88 C0
Wieselflinkpro’s Q8 is what made me think of that response.
If the driver doesn’t have a gate pull down resistor (10k), that might fix it. It’s an ATtiny thing.
I built 2x Convoy s2+ with LD-4 Drivers. One with Nichia sw45 9080 and the other luxeon V 4000k.
I try both, and the nichia it does not look pink tint as other people say (not very impresive). Any form of check if the led is correct?
Sometimes I launch off into projects that, in retrospect, I might should have not done. This last one is a fairly good example but not a total waste of time as it turned out.
Some background… my EDC light that I made from Scratch used to have the tight Khatod quad optics, I had bought several while at it as they came from England I think. The light morphed into a standard quad with LH351D emitters and the Khatod’s sit here unused. Stage 2 of the background, Will34 here on the forum was selling off some lights… I bought an X6 and Convoy M1 from him. Both of these were already modified, the X6 into a triple and the M1 a quad with a Khatod optic. Neither was really performing all that well so I rebuilt both of them. The M1 was somewhat oddly done with a T-Pad Quad MCPCB and what appear to be XP-G3 emitters that have damaged domes from the ultra tight Khatod optics. A copper plug and a top section of SS filled the head. No idea why SS, but it was in there…
I hadn’t worked on the lathe in a while, so it was a good project to refresh my amateurish skills. I had a piece of copper, WAY bigger than needed, so I carved it down. lol
I tend to like the challenge of making a heat sink that follows the internal lines of the head, and in this case, fully supports the optic all the way up to the glass.
Like most optics, the Khatod has an injection mold protrusion which made me hand carve some space from the top to get the optic to seat fully…
But what emitter? I thought about using sliced LH351D in 80 CRI trim, but the entry to the TIR’s in these Khatod’s is quite small, so I chose to use 4 White Flat’s and built a new driver for em using a lesser MOSFET and A6 firmware.
Hot spot is defined, the little quad makes 2510 lumens at 31.5Kcd, pulling 18.5A at the tail from a fresh charged 30Q.
Seems like a waste of White Flats in a way, but it makes for a unique little light and overall I think I am happy with it.
Apart from the inefficiency of the White Flat compared to the bigger die leds (2500 lumen can be made with i.e. a 3V XHP50.2 with under 10A), it looks like a nice performing flashlight with a pretty nice beam.
link to djozz tests
I may have to rescue the Flats and put sliced Samsungs in their place…
Colors should be very vivid (intensive).
The tint should become pink at higher currents (above 2A). This should be very noticeable when you compare it to another flashlight.
Where did you buy the Nichia?
Project Excalibur - Next Generation LED Thrower (UPDATE 2018-01-15: 1.7Mcd)
Portable Thrower Comparison
Swapped in a new lens on my Jetbeam TCR-01. The old one was cracked at the edge from when I’d put on the bezel too snug.
Unfortunately, I didn’t measure the lens before ordering replacements. Ordered a mixed selection of 22mm lenses when what I really needed was 20mm. Whoops!
Fortunately, one of the lenses I ordered was UCLP acrylic, which I was able to file to the correct size.
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